East Sussex (6) Brighton and the Royal Pavilion

The Brighton Royal Pavilion - the Extravagence of a Man with More Money than Sense?

Visits in Days Gone By

East Sussex

Brighton & Hove

During our stays with my sister Erica and her husband Peter in East Sussex, they have driven us all over the county in search of wondrous sights, but we have yet to properly visit the City of Brighton and Hove, home to some 280,000 people - over half the county’s population. Last year we went to Rottingdean (it is much nicer than it sounds!) politically within the city boundary, but in fact an outlying village. This seemed a good year to take on the urban centre, and its main attraction, the Brighton Royal Pavilion.

The County of East Sussex
Brighton and Hove are shown as dots, but in reality the City of Brighton and Hove occupies the whole south west corner of the county, encompassing Portslade, Patcham and Rottingdean

I had visited Brighton once before, in 1962. I was an 11-year-old Boy Scout, enjoying our troop’s annual summer camp at Small Dole, a village in the South Downs - the rolling hills north of Brighton, now a National Park. On one day our troop was transported into the city and let loose in groups of four or five with the strict instruction that each group must stick together. It was a little scary, but probably good for us to be left alone in a strange city with enough money in our pockets to buy lunch and fritter away the rest, as boys do, but not enough to do anything silly. We could not afford to visit the Royal Pavilion, but I doubt anyone cared, few if any of us had heard of it, we wanted to go to the pier and its amusement arcades.

Brighton Pier

I am sure we had a full day, but my memories are limited to eating sausages and baked beans for lunch and visiting the rifle range under the pier. Despite carefully aligning the rifle’s front sight with the bull’s eye, I not only missed the bull, but my five shots left no discernible mark anywhere on the target. Others were more successful, obviously there was something wrong with my rifle. I had another go, choosing a different weapon – and it happened again.

A couple of years later I discovered a rifle also has a rear sight which must be aligned with the front sight and target. It was blindingly obvious to the mature and intelligent 13-year-old I mistook myself for, but completely beyond the idiotic 11-year-old I had so recently been.

Getting to the Royal Pavilion

The obvious way to complete the 24-mile journey from Peter and Erica’s home in Heathfield is to drive, but then you must find a parking space. Even in February, it is easier to drive to Lewes, use the ample parking at Lewes station and take the train into Brighton.

The service is frequent, the train takes about 15 minutes and ours was on time as the sign pictured below suggests.

Lewes station

Once at Brighton it is a ten-minute walk to the Royal Pavilion....

From Brighton station to the Royal Pavilion

...but before we enter, here is a brief History of Brighton, which explains why the pavilion is there.

Brighton 1086-1823

Brighton features in the Domesday Book as Brighthelmstone. In 1086 it was a small fishing village dependent on fishing and farming, and so it remained for almost 700 years.

In the mid-1700s Dr Richard Russell, a Lewes based physician and medical writer started advocating sea water for bathing in and for drinking. It would, he believed, purify the blood, improve skin conditions and alleviate ‘glandular obstructions.’ His major work, a ‘Dissertation on the Use of Sea Water in the Diseases of the Gland’ (published in 1750) caused a stir. He moved his practice to Brighton and soon wealthy people were making the journey from London to ‘take the cure.’

Brighton’s rise as a fashionable seaside resort was boosted by a visit of the Prince of Wales (later the Prince Regent, later still King George IV) in 1783. In 1786 he leased a farmhouse here and transformed it into a neo-classical villa. After becoming Prince Regent for his debilitated father in 1811, he commissioned John Nash to redesign the building in an elaborate Indo-Saracenic style. Built 1815-23, it is the Royal Pavilion we see today.

Royal Pavilion, Brighton

Inside the Royal Pavilion

The first surprise was that it was so small, but then it is a pavilion, not a palace – and it is considerably bigger than my house.

The Pavilion is often described as ‘Indo-Saracenic,’ but the architect John Nash died in 1835, while the Indo-Saracenic blend of Western and Indian styles dates from the mid-19th. It remained popular with both the colonial rulers, and their local surrogates well into the 20th century.

The early 19th century was a period of fascination with the east, mainly among people, like the Prince Regent, who had never been there. Neither had John Nash but he was one of the foremost architects of his age, so with a little research he was quite capable of knocking up a fake Moghul Palace more than good enough to fool George.

For genuine Indo-Saracenic buildings see my 2016 posts Thiruvananthapuram (Formerly Trivandrum) for traditional Indian (in this case Keralan) architecture and Robert Chisholm’s Indo-Saracenic Napier Museum (1880) and Bangalore to Mysore for the Maharajah of Mysore’s enormous Henry Irwin designed palace (1912).

Entrance Hall

The interior design was mostly by Frederick Crace, and he filled the entrance hall with chinoiserie. Well, it is all Eastern so why not?

Chinoiserie in the Entrance Hall, Royal Pavilion, Brighton

In the 19th century, even royalty expected to be cold in winter, a fireplace could never warm their large high-ceilinged rooms, so they dressed accordingly. We do not, and the result is electric radiators compromising the design work.

There is something odd emerging from behind the clock, Brighton Royal Pavilion

The Banqueting Room

Beyond the Long Gallery we entered the Banqueting Room. The table settings are lavish; the walls are hung with red silk..

Banqueting Room, Brighton Royal Pavilion

…and covered in hand painted Chinese wallpaper.

Banqueting Room, Brighton Royal Pavilion

Above it all a colossal chandelier with a gilded dragon hangs below a domed ceiling.

Gilded dragon chandelier, Banqueting Room, Brighton Royal Pavilion

And if you cannot quite make out the dragon, take a closer look.

The Gilded Dragon

The Kitchen

Down a corridor that only the servants ever saw….

Servants corridor

…is a state-of-the-art Georgian kitchen with mechanical roasting spits,….

Kitchen, with mechanical roasting spits

… high ceilings for ventilation, and cleverly hidden skylights.

More of the kitchen

In here they produced 36 course dinners – and to think I struggle with a five-course tasting menu.

Menu for the visit of Grand Duke Nicholas of Russia 18/01/1817
Chef Antonin Carême

No one is expected to eat, or even taste, every course. The menu above starts with eight soups, but I have no idea how this sort of dining was managed. Perhaps diners opted for a particular soup in advance, or eight tureens were wheeled round on a big trolley and the choices were made as it passed, or maybe a footman stood at the end of the room and shout ‘Hands up for the curried chicken soup.’ None of these sound likely, and after the soup there are ‘eight Removes of fish’ and then ’40 Entrées around the fish’ and then and then and then….. Interesting to note, that although fascination with the east aligned more with a mythical than real east, very real chicken curry had already made its way west.

Music Room

With nine lotus-shaped chandeliers and the upper windows back-lit, the music room was designed to be seen at night.

Chandeliers and back-lit windows

It was a space for performance, Frederick Crace had thought about the acoustics as well as the light,…

A space for performance

… and for dancing.

A ball in the 1820s

The pillars were exotic…

This pillar is exotic

… sometimes bordering on ’strange…

And this one is weird

… and the walls were lined with chinoiserie. In its time the room was the height of elegance and opulence. But that was then, now they even let the peasants in.

The peasants, L to R:  Me, Lynne, Erica, Peter

Royal Bedrooms

Upstairs are the royal bedrooms, which are, perhaps, less idiosyncratic in design..

A royal bed

… and include some fine furniture. The inlays are, presumably, ivory, which we would frown at now, but this is of its time. Is it Chinese or Japanese?

I find this sort of inlaid furniture strangely pleasing

There is also this strange portrait of the prince.

A strange portrait of George IV

There is nothing obviously odd about this portrait, except that it is not a painting, it is a mosaic. Weighing close to half a tonne, it consists of half a million pieces of opaque coloured glass. As the sign underneath says it is a highly skilled example of the use of a glass mosaic to imitate paint. It is, indeed, but to what purpose?

Some Thoughts

We are nearly at the end of this tour, so it is time for a little reflection.

The Royal Pavilion is an extremely odd place. The Prince Regent, as he was then, asked for a building in Indian style on the outside, but he filled the inside with much chinoiserie, much else to suit the standard taste of aristocratic Europeans of the day, and some oddities like the palm tree pillar. The only hint of India inside is a reference to chicken Curry soup on a menu. George was a dilettante, a man who snatched at fashionable ideas, like, China, India and The East, but had little idea or interest in what they really meant. Could he really be as lightweight and spendthrift as Hugh Laurie’s portrayal of him in Blackadder?

Throwing vast sums of money at a building he never really understood, is evidence that he was. On the other hand, he was wise enough to employ the best people, like John Nash and Frederick Crace. He managed the project and got it done, and it was done with such panache it is hard not to admire it. He was extravagant, but much of the money was spent employing Brighton’s artisans and labourers.

The Royal Pavilion is beautiful, dire and quirky all at the same time. It might be a curate’s egg of a building, but it is a Fabergé Curate’s Egg.

The Royal Pavilion after George IV

George did not have long to enjoy his creation as he died in 1830, aged 68. He was succeeded by his brother, William IV, who also used the Pavilion, but with less enthusiasm, He died in 1837.

Queen Victoria found it cramped, and its location meant a lack of privacy. She commissioned the building of Osbourne House on the Isle of Wight as her seaside retreat. In 1850 she sold the Royal Pavilion to the town of Brighton.

The tour finishes in the Salon. In 1914 the Salon became a hospital for wounded Indian soldiers. 140,000 men of the British Indian Army were deployed on the Western Front. Relatively few of the many thousands of wounded were fortunate enough to be treated here. It may be an Indian building externally, but this was the only time the interior saw a major Indian presence.

The Salon as a military hospital in WW1

The building now belongs to the City of Brighton and Hove; it has been returned to its regency glory and is one of the most visited attractions on the south coast.

Our Visit Grinds to a Stop

We left the Pavilion, had a light lunch, photographed the pier (see the start of this post) and walked through some of Brighton's more interesting streets. Then we headed for the Museum.

Is this one of Brighton's more interesting streets?

It is sadly true that we are older than we used to be. It is an excellent museum with a varied collection of artefacts and an art gallery, but the history section was still greeting the arrival of the Romans when we admitted we had run out of steam. We walked wearily to the station and went back to Heathfield.

But to complete the post:

History of Brighton after George IV

Queen Victoria may have forsaken Brighton for the Isle of Wight, but Brighton’s growth continued unabated. The arrival of the railway in 1841 gave a direct link to London. Once the reserve of the upper classes, Brighton welcomed increasing numbers of ordinary Londoners while retaining its wealthy clientele. By 1900, with two piers and a variety of entertainment venues, Brighton catered for visitors of all classes.

Brighton continued evolving throughout the 20th century, though how it has remained a leading seaside resort since 1850 despite the handicap of a pebble beach is a mystery. Brighton was the destination of choice for the ‘dirty weekend’ and the place men resorted to when divorce laws required proof of adultery.  

More recently, while most south coast resorts have attracted ever more elderly residents, (Eastbourne is not the only one to be referred to as ‘God’s Waiting Room,’) Brighton has welcomed language students by the thousand, attracted the highest proportion of LGBT+ residents in the UK (2021 census) and developed a vibrant cultural hub. In 2010 the Brighton Pavilion Parliamentary Constituency elected the first (and until 2024, only) Green Party MP in the UK Parliament.

East Sussex

Part 1:Bodiam and Rye (2020)
Part 2:Bateman's, Firle Beacon and the Long Man of Wilmington (2021)
Part 3: Battle and Hastings (2021)
Part 4: Rottingdean and The Devil's Dyke (2024)
Part 5: Lewes and Charleston (2024) (coming soon)
Part 6: Brighton and the Royal Pavilion (2025)
Part 7: Winnie-The-Pooh and Standen (2025)

Slitting Mill: A Circular Walk, The 1st FGC Memorial F&C Walk

The Start of a New Era

Staffordshire

This walk, like all real Fish and Chip walks, took place on Cannock Chase, at 68 km² (26 sq miles) one of the smallest of England’s 33 designated Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Once a Royal Forest, it is now managed by Forestry England

It may be small, but it is perfectly formed and, most importantly, it is on our doorstep.

AONBs in England, Cannock Chase ringed
work of DankJae © Natural England copyright 2021. Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2021. Reproduced under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0.

The Gathering

On one of the mildest days of a distinctly cool winter, 5 participants gathered on the Car Park of The Horns Inn at Slitting Mill. Alison C, who had nobly the made the journey from Cheltenham, Lee and Sue, Mike and Alison T, and some worried looking bloke with only half his face in the picture.

Left to right, Sue, Alison C, Lee, Mike, Alison T and me, struggling withy the camera

Anne had cried off on the morning. She is a new grandparent and had been called upon for urgent grandparenting duties, so not only did we miss her company, we missed her skills at taking mass-selfies. I have little experience, short arms and arthritic fingers - and that’s my excuse.

The date of the very first Fish and Chip Walk – originally three teachers talking a country walk to celebrate the end of the Christmas Term – is known only to the celestial scorer, if there is one (and if there is, it is Bill Frindall, as every cricket fan of sufficient maturity knows).

The proto-chip walks were not always on Cannock Chase, and did not necessarily involve fish and chips but over time they settled into that pattern and that name. Brian and I were two of the three originals, the other, the actual progenitor of the Chip Walks (and the 11-year South West Odyssey and much more) was Francis, about whom, more later.

Getting Started

Our walk started and finished at Slitting Mill. A ‘slitting mill’ slits iron bars into rods as part of the nail making process. The first such mill was built here in 1611 and was followed by several others. The mills are long gone, but the village has appropriated the name. Slitting Mill today has 250 inhabitants and looks a pleasant place to live.

The mills were powered by water and the source, Horns Pool, is just behind the pub. It is now used by Staffordshire Match Fishing Club who charge other humans to fish the pool…

Horns Pool

…but kingfishers use it for free. ‘Look, there’s a kingfisher,’ said Alison C standing, behind me as I took the photo. By the time I was able to follow her pointing finger, it had, of course gone. I have still never seen a Common Kingfisher, though I have spotted and photographed white-throated and pied kingfishers in more exotic locations.

We followed the mill stream as it flows beside and a little above a field – which always looks slightly odd. We passed a row of houses, the last always has somebody on guard and at this time it is, inevitably, Father Christmas.

Father Christmas on guard duty.

On to the Chase

Here we turned our back on the open fields typical of most Staffordshire countryside…

Staffordshire farmland

….and made our way onto Cannock Chase.

Lee, Mike, Alison C On Cannock Chase

Mike had organised the route, and supplied us all with a nice map. The OS map from which it is derived shows the footpaths and the forestry tracks, but not the more recently created cycle tracks which cater for the large mountain biking community. We inadvertently found ourselves on one such track and a passing cyclist stopped to point out our error. He was polite and reasonable and at the next opportunity we found a new path a little to the north which headed in the right direction. There is never a shortage of paths on Cannock Chase, the problem was always knowing which one you are on. GPS has simplified such matter and we easily found our way down too at the visitor centre on Marquis Drive.

Slitting Mill is at the northeasterly corner of the route in red

The Brindley Valley

The Tackeroo

From the visitor centre we found our way into the Brindley Valley.

The Alisons inspect a pool in the Brindley Valley

Cannock Chase was a busy place during World War One with two large army camps, one of which later became a prisoner of war camp. To move in all the necessary equipment and keep the camp supplied a narrow-gauge railway was built. The Tackeroo, as it was called (nobody knows why) branched from the West Coast Main Line at Milford, just north of the Chase, made its entry through a cutting (now known as The Cutting), ran through Brocton Camp on the high ground west of the Sherbrook Valley across Penkridge Bank and through Rugeley Camp and the Brindley Valley, eventually reaching Hednesford where it joined the Rugeley-Walsall line.

Several of these walks have started through The Cutting on to the Chase, but this was the first along the Brindley Valley and the southern part of the Tackeroo. Our path ran close to the old rail line though it is no longer visible to the casual observer.

Through the Brindley Valley - the line of the Tackeroo was somewhere to our right.

Brindley Village

After the war the camps were dismantled and the rail tracks removed, though finding chunks of concrete among the trees that can only be explained as war-time remnants as not uncommon.

The hospital on Brindley Heath remained in use until 1924 and was then purchased by the West Cannock Colliery Company to house miners working at the West Cannock No. 5 pit near Hednesford. A community known as Brindley Village grew around it and a school was built. In 1953 the residents were relocated to council housing more conveniently situated in Hednesford. The village was demolished leaving only the occasional foundation and the odd fencepost.

Towards Fairoak Lodge

Before Penkridge Bank Road we turned right across Tackeroo Camp, a modern campsite, deserted in January, and towards more wooded country.

Across the Tackeroo Camp

Some way beyond Marquis Drive we encountered a metal barrier across our path, bearing a line-drawing of a man in a hard hat holding up his hand and saying ‘stop’ and the phrase “Forestry Work, Danger of Death.” These are not uncommon on the Chase, and the ‘danger of death’ is a little overstated. The hazards presented by large vehicles manoeuvring on rough ground, falling trees and men with chain saws are real enough, but they usually work only in a small area of the ground cordoned off. Even so we were reluctant to climb over such a barrier. A short distance away, however, another barrier had been moved aside, whether by forestry workers or an anarchist walker we did not know, but it gave access to path going in the right direction.

We found ourselves on another well-made cycle path, but this time cyclist-free.

Along the cycle path

In places it was steep and the mud was slippery. In theory, I think, Lee was helping Alison T down a slippery section, but a minute or so earlier it was Lee who had had found his footing sliding swiftly downhill followed by an unintentional, though relatively decorous, descent into the mud.

Mutual assistance on a perilous descent, Lee and Alison T

Eventually we sighted the forestry work a couple of hundred metres ahead. Turning left up the side of the valley, we found the next path up which took us away from any danger and delivered us to the access road to Fairoak Lodge.

Back to The Horns

From Fairoak Lodge we decided not to follow the planned route which dropped down to the pools, but keep instead to the higher ground which took us to Birches Valley visitor centre.

On the High Ground approaching Birches Valley

We walked through the visitor centre and Lady Hill Coppice beyond, emerging onto the minor road just outside Slitting Mill. The Horns, where Lynne would join us for the traditional fish and chip lunch was only a short step away.

The Horns, Slitting Mill

We had booked a late lunch, and as the light fades early in late December there was no afternoon walk. The route had been shorter than the traditional walk. Although Lee and Sue are still in (or at least not unadjacent to) their prime and could walk much further, some us (well me) are beginning to feel their age and find 11km quite long enough. Thanks to all for your patience, thanks to Mike for the route planning and to Alison C for making the effort to come so far to be part of it.

I mentioned Francis, the originator of these walks at the start. Last year he joined us for lunch and in the spring moved into sheltered accommodation in Oxfordshire nearer to his daughter. He died suddenly of a heart attack in June. For more, see updates to Dr Francis Gibbs Crane MBE.

Francis lunching at the Ship Inn, Danebridge many years ago

I first blogged about these walks in 2010, and that walk was indisputably the Nth of the series. Last year’s was the (N + 12)th and I feel it is time for new, and more definitive numbering. So, without consulting anybody, and solely for the purpose of this blog, I have named this the First Francis Crane Memorial Fish and Chip Walk. Blog titles are best kept short so, as you can see at the top, abbreviations have been necessary.

The Annual Fish and Chip Walks

The Nth: Cannock Chase in Snow and Ice (Dec 2010)
The (N + 1)th: Cannock Chase a Little Warmer (Dec 2011)
The (N + 2)th: Cannock Chase in Torrential Rain (Dec 2012)
The (N + 3)th: Cannock Chase in Winter Sunshine (Jan 2014)
The (N + 4)th: Cannock Chase Through Fresh Eyes (Dec 2014)
The (N + 5)th: Cannock Case, Dismal, Dismal, Dismal (Dec 2015)
The (N + 6)th: Cannock Chase Mild and Dry - So Much Better (Dec 2016)
The (N + 7)th: Cannock Chase, Venturing Further East (Jan 2018)
The (N + 8)th: Cannock Chase, Wind and Rain (Dec 2018)
The (N + 9)th: Cannock Chase, Freda's Grave at Last (Dec 2019)
The (N + 10)th: Cannock Chase in the Time of Covid (Dec 2020)
The (N + 11)th: Cannock Chase, Tussocks (Dec 2021)
Dec 2020 - no walk
The (N + 12)th: Cannock Chase, Shifting Tectonic Plates (Dec 2023)
The 1st FGC Memorial Walk: Cannock Chase. Slitting Mill, a Circular Walk (Dec 2024)

The Curse of Costa Rica?

Originally entitled Not Going to Costa Rica this post was first published on 13-March-2023. Since then more material has attached itself to the tale; this is the updated version.

A Tale of Woe (Mainly)

Costa Rica 2021

Costa Rica

We had booked a Cuban trip for March 2020 but as departure approached, so did a new and as yet unnamed Corona Virus. I was expecting imminent government action that would cause a cancellation, but it didn’t come, so we went.

It came two days later. Our travel company wanted to bring us straight home, but I demurred and we eventually lost only one day of our holiday. The airline industry was shutting down and we had to fly Havana-Paris-Amsterdam-Birmingham, arriving home the day after the first lockdown had started.

Where are they all?
Driving home from the airport after the start of the first lockdown. March 2020

By summer the prolonged lockdown had worked, the number of cases was much lower and stayed low even after restrictions were lifted. I was no Covidiot, unlike the Prime Minister, Lynne and I had obeyed the rules meticulously, but I was throughout a hopeless Covoptimist. By the end of August, I thought Covid was over and the world would start opening up. We booked a trip to Costa Rice for February 2021.

But of course, it wasn’t over, autumn came and cases rose. The Prime Minister promised a ‘normal Christmas’ even though he was in possession of the facts and projections, but he was, as usual, saying what he thought people wanted to hear. The second lockdown came, I contacted the travel company and we rescheduled for 2022.

Where Were We (not) Going?

Costa Rica has become a popular destination and I was surprised by how many people I have spoken to recently have been there. No doubt, they know where it is, but others seemed less sure. They know its not one of the Spanish Costas, so it must be across the Atlantic somewhere, but where? Confusion with Puerto Rico is common, and understandable, but Puerto Rico is an island, Costa Rica isn’t, it is a slice across central America.

Costa Rica's position in Central America

It is not large, 150 km from the Atlantic to Pacific coast and 400 km north to south. Our plan was to cherry-pick the best of Costa Rica, stopping at five locations across the country.

Flying Gatwick to San José, we would look round the capital and then journey by bus and boat to Tortuguero, a National Park on the Atlantic coast. It was the wrong season for the turtles (never mind, see Oman (2): Sur and Turtles), but we were guaranteed howler monkeys, sloths in the hotel garden and an early morning boat trip to see what we could find. From there we would travel to La Fortuna at the base of Arenal, an active volcano, for lava walks and a dip in a thermal pool.

Costa Rica with our intended stops marked in red

Stop 3 was the cloud forest at Monteverde, with walkways through the canopy – as featured in the Paddington movies, even though it is not ‘darkest Peru’. Then down to the beach at Sámara on the Pacific coast before returning to San José and home.

Costa Rica in 2022

Little did we know it but the 2022 plan started unravelling in September 2021.

Intended Stop 1: Tortuguero National Park (photo: Peter)

Lynne was suffering from a persistent and very unpleasant cough and extreme tiredness. Coughing fits regularly left her retching, but when one brought up a little blood, it was time to consult the medical profession. A series of blood tests, an x-ray and an CT scan failed to throw light on the cough, which by January had gone away on its own, but they did flag up a potential heart problem. We were not worried, Lynne had major heart surgery in 1954 and as the heart/lung machine was yet to be invented the surgeons had only minutes to perform the operation to avoid brain damage. Looking inside the chest now, is alarming – to those who understand these things - but the experimental operation was a complete success and she has been able to live a normal life for the last 70 years.

Long-billed Curlew, Tortuguero (photo: Peter)

We were to travel on Thursday Feb 24th. On the Monday evening a cardiologist phoned us, saying he needed to see Lynne immediately. She said we were going to Costa Rica in two days. He sounded sceptical. Lynne gave him a brief history and he asked if she had regular check-ups. She told him she used to, but was signed off in 2002. ‘They wouldn’t have signed you off if they had seen what I have just seen,’ he replied. And that sentence effectively finished of Costa Rica 2022.

Intended Stop 2: Arenal (photo: Peter)

A week or two later Lynne had an ECG and we walked into his consulting room. He looked surprised, I think he had been expecting an invalid. To be fair, he had been checking her history; we knew (and he discovered) that parts of Lynne’s notes have gone walkabout, but he had clearly done some extra digging and was well informed. He showed us the apparent massive aneurysm, ‘larger than those we operate on’ on his screen. He listened carefully, asked a few questions and suggested Lynne have a MRI scan in a few months’ and if nothing had changed, he would accept it was stable, meanwhile he would support our insurance claim. In June Lynne had her scan, nothing had changed and she will have another in a year. Our travel insurance paid up in full and reinstated Lynne’s cover.

American crocodile, Arenal (photo: Peter)

What Makes Costa Rica Special

Costa Rica – The Rich Coast – was so called because the conquistadors claimed to be impressed by the gold ornaments worn by the natives. They were lying.

From 1609 to 1821 Costa Rica was the southernmost province of the Captaincy General of Guatemala. Being a long way from the capital and forbidden to trade with its southern neighbour (Panama was part of the rival Viceroyalty of New Grenada) it was remote and sparsely populated. In 1719 a Spanish Governor described Costa Rica as the poorest and most miserable Spanish colony in all America.

Coat of Arms of Costa Rica

At independence in 1821 the Captaincy General became the Federal Republic of Central America. Fighting between the constituent provinces doomed the Federation from the start. Costa Rica withdrew in 1838 and proclaimed itself independent, but by then it was unclear if there was anything to withdraw from.

One major reason for Costa Rica's early poverty was the lack of a significant indigenous population available for forced labour. In the mid-19th century this disadvantage turned into an advantage as the lack of a substantial oppressed community enabled greater social cohesion and political stability. Economic expansion loves stability, and coffee, first planted in 1808, became, and remains the most important crop.

Laura Chinchilla President 2010-14
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Being Latin American, Costa Rica had to have at least one military coup; in 1948 a disputed presidential election led to an armed uprising and a bloody 44-day civil war. The would-be military junta lost and to make sure it never happened again Costa Rica abolished its army. Since then, 18 presidents have served single 4-year terms and their successor has been chosen by free and fair elections. President Laura Chinchilla, served 2010-14, was Costa Rica’s first female president.

Rodrigo Chaves, President since 2022
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Costa Rica is today by far the most prosperous of the 5 republics that made up the Guatemala Captaincy, its per capita GDP is almost three times that of Guatemala the second most prosperous. Costa Rica’s Human Development Index, which takes account of life expectancy, education and income is rated 'Very High'.

Costa Rica 2023

We rebooked for February 23rd 2023 - surely nothing could go wrong this time. Early February all seemed well, but as departure approached that cough, the one that had led indirectly to last year’s problem, returned, but I convinced myself it would get better. 24 hours from departure I checked in and then we drove down to my sister’s in Sussex. She had generously offered to put us up for the night, provide car parking and drive us to and from the airport.

Caterpillar of one of the Leucanella family of moths, Arenal (photo: Peter)
If nature has anything more like a decorated turd, I don't want to see it

I was confident we were going when we sat down to dinner. Lynne ate, but did not do justice to an excellent meal. She started coughing when we went to bed and coughed solidly all night. I might have had 60 minute’s sleep, but probably less. At some time in the small hours she said quietly ‘I can’t get on that plane like this.’ My mind had been so set on going, that was the first time I realised the trip was in jeopardy. Removing my head from the sand, I could see it was impossible.

Intended Stop 3: the Monteverde Cloud Forest

Instead of being driven to Gatwick, I drove us home. Lynne went to bed with a lung infection and stayed there for most of the next fortnight. The cough subsided, but the tiredness lingered.

In Conclusion

The first cancellation was just Covid, it was not the only trip we cancelled that year. The second was, I am sure, unnecessary but looking at it from the point of view of the doctor I cannot see what else he could have done, and he left us with no real choice but to cancel. With hindsight it was clear that from the moment Lynne was sent for a chest x-ray the consequences had to play out, but instead of foreseeing the problem we just sleepwalked into it – and the timing could not have been worse. Cancellation three was just unlucky.

Will there be a fourth attempt? Who knows?

Costa Rica 2024

My In Conclusion was a bit too quick. On my birthday in September, I received a communication from my sister, Erica. It was a birthday greeting of the kind you would expect between siblings who live 200 miles apart and so do not see each other often. The final paragraph read I think it is time to fess up that our main holiday this year is to Costa Rica. I did not say anything previously as we did not want to appear as though we were doing a one-upmanship thing on you. I do know that you are far more mature than to think that… and of course I am. I wished them (Erica and husband Peter) well and was glad that one of us would get there, even if it was not me.

My sister Erica and her husband Peter

They booked with a company well-known for sending people to far-flung places. Initially they told them they would fly to San José, the capital of Costa Rica, from Heathrow via Montreal – considerably less of a detour on a globe than it looks on a flat map. A little later they changed this to Heathrow – Frankfurt – San José and then to Heathrow – Miami - San José.

At American airports, unlike all other airports, the segregation between airside and landside only happens at the gate, so once disembarked they cannot separate those who have reached their final destination from passengers in transit. Consequently, everybody must go through the whole rigmarole of entering the USA, and transit passengers must then exit again. To enter, even for an hour, you require a visa or at least a visa waiver.

Side-striped palm-pit viper, Monteverde (photo: Peter)
Good news, a bite is nasty but not fatal to humans (usually)

To receive a visa waiver you must apply by ESTA (U.S. Electronic System for Travel Authorization.) This takes time and costs money, so Erica did not do it immediately in case the company changed their minds again. Once that seemed unlikely, she sat down to complete the on-line form. All went well until the question have you entered Iran, Syria, North Korea or Cuba since 1st March 2011. She spent a week in Iran as a tourist in 2017. Since then, she has acquired a new passport and a new surname, so would a little fib be appropriate? She was tempted, but the consequences of being caught out would be serious - who knows what sources of information governments might have - and one visit, that long ago? Would it matter? She did what I would have done and told the truth - and it did matter. Within the hour she and Peter knew their applications had been rejected.

A bird-feeder in Monteverde is visited by two of the 366 species of hummingbird tentatively identified as:
left a female purple throated mountain gem (the males have the purple throats) and right a green-crowned brilliant

By then it was too late to apply for a full visa – and would it be granted, anyway?

The curse of Costa Rica was striking again.

The travel company were unsympathetic. A cancellation at that stage would mean no refund from the company and their travel insurance would not cover it.

Intended stop 4: The Beach. We intended to stay Sámara, thus photo is of sunset at Tamarindo, 50 km to the north.
I doubt they are very different. (photo: Peter)

But why cancel when there are any number of ways of getting from Sussex to San José. Erica did some research and went back to the company. Eventually they offered four choices, two involved leaving on the wrong day for their pre-booked tour and one was a direct flight from Gatwick to San Jose on the right day. They live 30 mins from Gatwick Airport, so not a difficult choice. BA fly three times a week from Gatwick to San José, they would have to return via Madrid (BA and Iberia are essentially the same company) but that was a minor inconvenience.

So, everything was solved, but still Erica said she would not believe they were going until wheels met tarmac in San José.

Teatro Nacional, San José

And the curse of Costa Rica is not so easily sidestepped. The belated end of the rainy season brought a deluge of biblical proportions. Costa Rica closed down and the Foreign Office advised against all but essential travel.

Just in time the flood abated, the waters receded and a dove was seen flying eastward across the Atlantic with an olive branch in its beak. The curse of Costa Rica was finally lifted.

Erica and Peter enjoyed their holiday, if it was at times a little damp,...

Erica enjoying the rain

... and I am grateful to them for this story and the wildlife photos above.