Western Europe

For blogging purposes western Europe excludes the UK, not out of arrogant Brexit-y exceptionalism, but because we have travelled enough on home turf to fill three pages like this one.

This post contains links to all and descriptions of most of our travels in Portugal, Iceland, Spain and Ireland. France, Belgium and Germany also appear from earlier journeys.

The south coast of the Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry,Ireland

Our travelling in the 70s, 80s and 90s was mostly in western Europe. Summer holidays meant throwing a tent in the back of the car and heading off from Calais or Boulogne in whatever direction took our fancy. We drove as far south as Evora in Portugal and Naples in Italy, and as far east as Budapest and Prague (eastern Europe, perhaps, but we had to drive through a lot of the west to get there.)

More recently we have journeyed further afield, with a thought that we might return to Europe when increasing age demands easier travelling. This blog started in 2010, since when Western Europe has often meant just our annual trip to Portugal, with the odd foray into Spain. We have also visited Ireland twice, making up for the decades of neglect when holidays always started in France. When Covid arrived we went nowhere for a year, then in mid-2021 the vaccine allowed the government to produce a Green List of countries that could be visited without quarantine, so we went to Iceland topped the list. Now things are easier, we have returned to Portugal, most recently visiting Madeira.

Starting, then, with the most recent posts first, we begin in Portugal – which also provides some of the oldest posts.

Portugal

Madeira

Madeira: Introduction

17/04/2023

The location of Madeira. The discovery of Madeira. João Gonçalves Zarco and Tristão Vaz Teixeira. The Ilhas Desertas. Funchal. Cristiano Ronaldo. Madeira Airport. The Lido district. Cruise Ships.

A First Look at Central Funchal

18/04/2023

Bolo do Caco, limpets. Funchal Cathedral. Baden-Powell statue. 3D Fun Art. Blandy’s Wine Lodge, Madeira wine, history, grape varieties & production methods. The pleasures of Verdelho. Non-fortified Madeira wines.

The Cable Car to the Monte Palace Garden

19/04/2023

Walking from Lido district to central Funchal. Reid's Hotel, Jacarandas. Farmers Market, tropical fruit, Black Scabbard fish and tuna. Monte Palace Cable Car. The Monte Palace Gardens. Madeira toboggan

Funchal to Santana

20/04/2023

Madeira airport, Machico. Caniçal. Ponta de São Lourenço. Porto da Cruz, Engenhos do Norte, steam powered rum distillery, Eagle Rock (Penha da Águia). Faial. Santana, Thatched Houses, church. A short levada walk. Pico de Arieiro.

Eira do Serrado and Camâra dos Lobos

21/04/2023

Miradouro of Pico dos Barcelos, overlooking Santo António and the church where Cristiano Ronaldo took his first communion. Andorinha, Maritimo and Nacional Football Clubs. Miradouro Eira do Serrado and the Nuns Valley. Barbeito Madeira wine. Câmara de Lobos and its harbour where Winston Churchill spent time painting.

Funchal (2) Photography the Botanical Garden

22/04/2023

Please be patient.

Madeira: Eating and Drinking

25/04/2023

Coral beer. Limpets. Bola do caco. Poncha. Black scabbardfish, tuna with maize, salt cod, seafood rice, squid, octopus, wrasse. Steak espedata, ‘wine, meat, garlic.’ Pineapple, pudim flan. Madeira and DOP Madeirense

The Lido district of Funchal
Narrow streets, central Funchal
Japanese Garden, Monte Palace Gardens
Faial and the Penha de Águia
Câmara de Lobos
A lunchtime dose of limpets

Algarve

The Algarve: Delights and Depredations

06/10/2010

An assessment of the changes in the Algarve over 25 years of visiting. When I get round to it, I will update this post to unclude another decade or more

Mexilhoeira Grande and a Long Lost Cousin

 08/10/2013

Lynne and Ricky finding each other through genealogical research. John Lott (1799-1872) of Merthyr and his descendants. Meeting Ricky and Zeca at their home in Mexilhoeira Grande. Lunch of carapau & octopus, chicken and piri-piri, Their harvest of olives and, carobs. Zeca’s vineyard and winery.

The West Coast 

19/10/2013 

The Algarve’s west coast from south to north. Cape St Vincent, Sagres and its Fortaleza, Vila do Bispo, wind farms. Bordeira, village and beach. Surfing. Aljezur & its castle. Odeceixe and its praia. Zambujeira do Mar

Lagos

17/10/2014

River Bensafrim. Avenida dos Descobrimentos. Praca de la Republica, Henry the Navigator, slave market. Main street, coffee, Praça Gil Eanes, O Desejado (the Desired One), Lagos Regional Museum, Santo Antonio. Ponta Piedade

Castro Marim and Vila Real do Santo António

 08/10/2015

Guadiana Bridge Portugal-Spain. Salt pans. Castro Marim, Castle, views from battlement, inner Castle and local history. Fortress of São Sebastião. Vila Real de Santo Antonio, 18th century planned town on a pattern. Marquis de Pombal. The Marina, Political Posters.

The Boxes of Carvoeiro

11/10/2016

Carvoeiro, painted electricity junction boxes - local architecture, chimneys, views, fauna & characters, site specific pictures, virgin mother & stork

Mertola and Alcoutim: Strongholds by the Guadiana River - Also under Alentejo

29/082017

Faro to Mertola, Alcoutim (in the Algarve) Menires do Lavajo, Alcoutim, Castle Church and town. Mertola (Alentejo) Castle & environs, Church once a mosque. City wall and Roman waterfront.

Silves, Former Capital of the Algarve

02/10//2018

Silves Castle, Building and History, Sancho I and the Reconquista. Cisterna grande. Cathedral, Manueline doors, Dom Fernando Coutinho. Archeological Museum, Carved monoliths, Almohad Step Well

Drinking the Algarve 2022

18/10/2022

DOC and the designated Algarve wine regions. Cliff Richard and Vida Nova, Lagoa DOC, Vinho Regional Algarve, Porches, Villa Alvor, Herdade Barranco do Vale, Monte de Ria, Odelouca, Foral, João Clara. General assessment.

Eating the Algarve 2023

23/10/2023

Presunto, Sardine paté, cheese, dourada, robalo, sardines, swordfish, squid, octopus, eel stew, salt cod, arroz de marisco, clams, cataplana, chicken pir-piri, desserts, pudim flan, Dom Rodrigo

Zeca, Ricky and dogs
North from Cape St Vincent
Restaurants line the main street, Lagos
Bridge connecting Spain and Portugal
Local architecture with cat: Carvoeiro
Alcoutim
The massive castle walls, Silves
Lynne and a langoustine, Carvoeiro
Monte da Ria, Algarve rosé

Alentejo

Évora

29/09/2016

Faro to Evora. Praca de Geraldo. Santo Antão, Aquaduto da Prata. Temple of Diana, Cathedral, Igreja de Graca. Church of S Francisco and its bone chapel. Menhir and cromlech of Almendres Cromlech.

Mértola and Alcoutim: Strongholds by the Guadiana River (also under Algarve)

29/09/2017

Faro to Mertola, Alcoutim (in the Algarve) Menires do Lavajo, Alcoutim, Castle Church and town. Mertola, Castle & environs, Church once a mosque. City wall and Roman waterfront.

Beja, Capital of Baixo Alentejo

27/09/2018

Pousada Convento, Commemorating WW1, Roman Beja, Visigothic and Medieval Beja. Castle, lunch by the pillory. Moorish & Jewish Quarters, Beja Regional Museum, Dining at the Pousada and elsewhere.

Castro Verde (1): Surrounding Villages

28/09/2022

Castro Verde, Casa Dona Maria, Ermida de São Pedro das Cabeça, Battle of Ourique, consequences, mythology and monuments. São Marcos da Atabeira. Entradas and its Countryside Museum. Castro Verde Church of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios and the Basilica

Castro Verde (2): Castro Verde and Ourique

29/09/2022

Castro Verde: Lamp Museum, Windmill. Ourique: the Miradouro, Castle, Statue of Afonso I, Parish Church. Castro da Cola, The Necropole de Atalaia, Dinner at the Villa Italia Castro Verde

Serpa

28/09/2023

Coming soon

The Alentejo: Eating and Drinking 2003

15/10/2023

Lamb. Rabbit. wild boar. Porco Preto, the cuts. Migas with tomato or asparagus. Pork cheeks in red wine, Carne de porco Alentejano. Bacalhau. 'Cataplana Alentejano'. Nisa and Serpa cheeses. DOC Alentejo and VR Alentejano wines. Borba, Reguengos and Vidiguera.

Roman Temple, Évora
Mértola Castle from the road by the river
Pousada Convento, Beja
Casa Dona Maria, Castro Verde
Castro Verde windmill
Cataplana Alentejano, Evora

Lisbon

Kochi and Lisbon: The Two Graves of Vasco de Gama

07/12/2011

(updated April 2020)

Kochi in Kerala and the Church of St Francis. The Grave of Vasco da Gama. Lisbon, the Torre de Belem, Jeronimos Monastery and another Grave of Vasco da Gama. The explanation.

Portugal is also labelled in

The 11th Hour of the 11th Day of the 11th Month, 1918-2018

11/11/2018

Commemorating the end of the First World War, mainly around two names from the local war memorial. Portugal receives a mention and there is a picture of memorial in São Brás de Alportel in the Algarve. Portugal was first involved in the war through its African colonies but later sent 50,000 troops to the western front.

A Fine Drinking Man’s Country?

26/06/2017

In which I assess the pleasures of the table, both eating and drinking, in 10 countries across 3 continents. Portugal scores well for both. Also considered are China, France, India, Iran, Mongolia, Morocco, North Macedonia, Sri Lanka, and Thailand.

November and Where to Spend it

23/11/2014

November is my 12th favourite month. Here are some places where we have experienced rather better November weather.

Churches that Tell Stories in Russia, India, Vietnam, Portugal and the UK

05/05/2012

Portugal’s contribution is the Igreja Matriz in Estômbar, Algarve. In 1755 an earthquake and tsunami destroyed 85% of Lisbon's buildings, killing a quarter of its population, and inundating the Algarve. Estômbar’s church was destroyed except for Manueline doorway. A new church was built around the doorway in the late 18th century.

October in Staffordshire: The Weather's Gone Weird Again

02/10/2011

Changing weather patterns. Staffordshire: Snow in November; hoar frost, Cannock Chase, December; warm sunshine, Peak district in March, Stone in April. October eating alfresco in Staffs & Portugal

Statues without Plinths

14/02/2023

A collection of largely plinth-free statues from three continents. In this less deferential age it is good not to be looking up to people all the time. Portugal’s contribution is The Market Trader sitting outside the market in Loulé in the Algarve

Memorial plaque, Sao Bras
Drinking beer in Portugal
Praia de Odeceixe, November 2008

Iceland

I always liked the idea of visiting Iceland, but never the climate. As Covid started to make a hesitant retreat Iceland appeared on the governments first, very short, Green List of countries we could visit without lengthy quarantines in- or outward bound.

Iceland

Introduction to Reykjavik

10/08/2021

Why visit Iceland? Reykjanes Peninsula. Parking in Reykjavik. Beer, Brennivin (the national drink) and not eating puffins. Fish & chips for dinner. A cashless society

West from Reykjavik Along Route 1

11/082021

Route 1, Leaving Reykjavik. South Iceland: Hveragerði, Selfoss, Hella, Dyrhólaey almost island, Puffins. Mýrdalsjökull glacier Reynisfjara beach, Hálsanefshellir Cave. On to Klaustur and an hotel that was not expecting us.

A Calving Glacier, a Basalt Pavement and an Otherworldly Canyon

12/08/2021

Jökulsárlón via Vatnajökull. Calving icebergs and short river. Klaustur, Fire Church & the Fire Priest. Kirkjugólf ('Church Floor') basalt pavement. Stjórnarfoss waterfall, Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon. Magma Hotel and Arctic Char

Vik, Skógafoss and Skógar

13/08/2021

Vik, the Katla eruption and the church as refuge. Skógafoss waterfall. Icelandic meat soup. Skógar, Museum, lunch boxes, whale vertebrae, Barbary pirate raids, open air museum. Holt Farmhouse.Þórður Tómasson

The Golden Circle, Gullfoss, Geysir and Þingvellir

14/08/2021

Gullfoss, an awesome waterfall. Geysir and Strokkur, Geysir & Yellowstone. Þingvellir, the lake, rift vlley between Europe and America. The Alþing and the Law Rock. The church and the PM’s house. Borgarnes, Egils Saga, Englendingavik Restaurant and confit duck leg.

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula: Whale Watching and Fermented Shark

15/08/2021

Snæfellnes, Baulárvallavatn, lava fields and basalt pavement. Stykkishólmur, the harbour and the Norwegian Hse. Bjarnarhöfn and The Shark Musuem. Eating Hakarl, Fermented Greenland shark. Kirkjufell and Iceland’s most photographed mountain. Olafsvik, whale watching and having a miserable time.

 Covid Testing, Grindavik and the Blue Lagoon

16/08/2021

Skyr, an Iceland speciality. To Reykjavik for Covid Testing. Grindavik. Papa’s Restaurant, the Salt Fish Museum and Barbary Slavers. The Blue Lagoon, silica, water temp, showers drinking prosecco in the pool.

A Day in Reykjavik

17/08/2021

The Arbær Building Museum. The problem of building material, prefabricated buildings. Catholic church, Arbær farm, sheepshed, domwetic buildings.,Skólavörðustigurm and Hallgrimskirkja, Church of Iceland, the statue of Leif Ericsson, Sun Voyager, Dinner and remarkable battered cod. Eating in Iceland generally. Epilogue.

A central Reykjavik Street
Mýrdalsjökull
Icebergs on the River Jökulsárl 
Holt Farmhouse, Skógar Museum
Gulfoss
Þingvallatan
Lynne eats hakarl, Bjarnarhöfn
Grindavik harbour - a hive of activity
Hallgrímskirkja

Spain


Barcelona (March 2021 and 2008)

A 2008 city break in Barcelona, written up 13 years after the event as a Covid lockdown project.

Catalonia

La Rambla and Barceloneta

03/02/2021

Barcelona Cathedral, St Eulalia & her Geese, La Rambla, Boqueria market, Christophe Columbus, Maritime Museum, Barceloneta beach. Set lunch, paella, sole,

The Old City

09/02/2021

Barri Gótic. Plaça de Sant Jaume Narrow alleys of the old city. Sinagoga Major. Roman Tombs, Placa del Rei, King Martin’s Watchtower and Roman Barcino. Picasso museum and Las Meninas. Parc de la Ciutadella and Arc de Triomf

Sagrada Familia and the Eixample District

28/02/2021

L'Eixample, Sagrada Familia as it was in 2008. Interior, Sagrada Familia as it will be. A view from a tower. Gaudi’s house. Casa-Museu, Parc Güell. A goat dinner. Palau de la Música Catalana, Cases Cabot, Casa Calvet and Casa Battló

La Boqueria
Roman graves, Plaça de la Vila de Madrid
Window, Gaudi's Casa Batlló

Iberian Pork Experience (Sept 2019)


Andalusia

Alájar in the Sierra Aracena

24/09/2019

From Faro in the Algarve to Alájar in Andalusia’s Sierra Aracena. Posada de S Marcos. Sherry and ham tasting; fino, manzanilla, aged manzanilla, the Iberian Black pig: lomo, morcón, and jamon Iberico, carving the ham on the jamonero. Pork cheeks and chocolate,

Pigs, Ham and Tapas

25/09/2019

Andalusian breakfast. Walk to see the Iberian Black Pigs, dehesa, holm oaks & cork oaks and their acorns. Acorns. Aracena Ham Musuem, Production methods, regional and quality appellations. Aracena walk, grutas maravillas, the old public laundry. Tapas lunch. Afternoon in Alájar.

Secaderos, Pork Butchers and Cooking Dinner

26/09/2019

Juan Carlos Navarro Fernandez, Secadero de Jamones. Curing hams, buying ham, lomo and morcilla. To Jamones Vazquez in Aracena to buy pork for dinner. Thoughts about the most expensive hams. Lunch at la Parra, the village bar in Alájar. Cooking dinner, Gazpacho and sauces for the pork.

Alájar in the Sierra de Aracena
A magnificent Iberian black sow
Wall of ham, Jamones Vazquez, Aracena

Spain is also labelled in

A Collection of Arcs de Triomphe (none of them in Paris) Part 1: Pre 1900

19/08/2020

The Spanish contribution to this collection is the Arc de Triomf in Barcelona, built for the 1888 Barcelona world Fair.

Ireland

The West of Ireland (2016)

Galway

25/07/2016

Shannon Airport. Coffee at Gort. On to Galway, Eyre Square, Lynch's Castle, Lynch's Window, St Nicholas, Sheridans, River Corrib, Latin Quarter. Dinner at Murty Rabbitt's

Connemara in the Mist and the Rain

26/07/2016

Aughnanure Castle. Oughterard. Lough Corrib. Leenan. Killary Harbour, Ireland’s only fjord. Clifden, Marconi and the Alcock & Brown Memorial. Rosmuc and Patrick Pearse's Cottage.

Loam, Fine Dining in Galway

26/07/2016

Enda McEvoy. 7-Course taster menu. Mackerel, beetroot & fennel, Monkfish liver & onion, Sirloin, coolea & mushroom, Carrot hazelnut & whey, Lamb, turnip & pea, Pear & elderflower, Strawberry and Juniper. The problem of the homeless.

Athenry, The Burren and Ennis

27/07/2016

&

28/07/2016

To Athenry, The Fields of Athenry. Athenry Castle and Priory. Kinvarra. Newtown Castle. The Burren a huge limestone pavement with Poulnabrone Dolmen and Catherconnel. Ennis, sculpture Trail and dinner. Ennis Friary

Adare, Listowel and on to Tralee

28/07/2016

Adare, the Dunraven Estate and Desmond Castle. The Desmond Rebellions. Listowel Castle and Literary connections. John B Keane. Dinner in Tralee

The Dingle Peninsula

29/07/2016

Conor Pass and Pedlar's Lake. Descend to Dingle, Maurice O’Sullivan, Slea Head Drive, Ventry, Clochans, Dunquin, Great Blasket visitor centre Ballyferriter. The Gallarus Oratory

Killarney to Kenmare

30/07/2016

Killarney, Cathedral & a Heron. The Ring of Kerry: Ross Castle, Jaunting cars & Jarvies, Muckross Abbey, Ladies View, Moll's Gap, Kenmare, Stone Circle, William Petty.

Ardfert, Flying-Boats and Limerick

31/07/2016

Ardfert Cathedral & Franciscan Monastery, Ballyheigue, Foynes, Flying-boat Musuem and the birth of transatlantic air travel. Limerick, some history and King John's Castle. Richard Harris as King Arthur. Meeting a Guard


Lynch's Window, Galway
Lough Corrib
Poulnabrone Dolmen, The Burren
Thatched Cottages, Adare
Main Street, Dingle
Heron, River Deenagh, Killarney
Richard Harris as King Arthur, Limerick

Dublin (2014)

First Impressions

23/06/2014

Riding the airport bus. A short walk: Parnell Monument, Moore St Market, Henry St and Spire of Dublin. Down O’Connell St past the Post Office of ‘Easter Rising’ fame. O'Connell Bridge & Statue. O’Connell St statues including Fr Matthew, apostle of temperance. Detour to pub. Dinner at Madigan’s. Observations on Irish pubs and Guinness in Ireland.

From the Book of Kells to Dublin Castle

24/06/2014

Trinity College, Books of Kells, Armagh and Dimma. Long Room of the Old Library, Brian Boru harp. Molly Malone, Merrion Sq, Oscar Wilde, Father Ted, WB Yeats. Kildare St, parliament and Bram Stoker. Lunch in Temple Bar. Dublin Castle, the medieval and the (relatively) modern. Christ Church Cathedral. The Ha'penny Bridge.

From the Great Famine to the Guinness Storehouse

25/06/2014

James Joyce Statue. The Famine Memorial and the Jeanie Johnstone. City wall. Guinness Storehouse, 9000-year lease, Water from the Wicklow Mountains, William Gosset and the Student's t-test, Guinness advertising, a pint in the Gravity Bar. A long, wet walk beside the Liffey.

Fr Matthew, Apostle of Temperance
The Ha'penny Bridge, Dublin
I'm in the poster! Guinness Storehouse, Dublin

Ireland is also labelled in

Statues without Plinths

14/02/2023

A collection of largely plinth-free statues from three continents. In this less deferential age it is good not to be looking up to people all the time. Ireland’s contributions are the Famine Memorial and the statues of James Joyce and Oscar Wilde in Dublin, and the double statue of Oscar Wilde and Edvard in Vild in Galway.

France


France is labelled in

A Collection of Arches de Triomphe (none of them in Paris) Part 1: Pre 1900 (2020)

The 11th Hour of the 11th Day of the 11th Month, 1918-2018 (also labelled Portugal, Belgium)

A Fine Drinking Man’s Country? (2017)

The Somme: One Hundred Years Ago Today (2016)

Bridges

27/01/2016

A collection of scenic bridges connecting people together. The French representatives are the Pont d'Avignon and the Pont de Zaglia, a medieval Genoese bridge over a Corsican stream. The other bridges are in Germany (see below), Armenia (see Former USSR) and the USA.

Commemorating the Dead: Tsunami, Earthquake and War

05/10/2012

The French contribution is the 28th (Welsh Division) Memorial, Mametz Wood on the Somme Battlefield

Out to Lunch in Corsica, Tamil Nadu and the Western Desert

29/02/2012

Three excellent lunches. The French contribution is Spiny Lobster in Cargèse, Corsica. There is also a Vegetarian Thali in Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu, India and lunch at the single table ‘Cleopatra’s Restaurant’ in Bawiti, Bahariya Oasis, Egypt’s Western Desert.


Belgium

Belgium is labelled in

Ypres, Tyne Cot and the Menin Gate

The Eleventh Hour of the Eleventh Day of the Eleventh Month(2018) (also labelled, Portugal)

Germany


Germany is labelled in

Bridges

27/01/2016

A collection of scenic bridges connecting people together. The German representative a bridge over the River Saar, with vineyards and a barge. The other bridges are in France (see above), Armenia (see Former USSR) and the USA.

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