Now Home to the International Eisteddfod and Formerly to the Ladies of Llangollen
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| Wales |
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| Denbighshire |
The town’s name has two of those pesky double ll sounds. Visitors pronouncing Llangollen as Thlan-gothlen will at least get
credit for trying (though this advice is of little use to speakers of the many
languages lacking a ‘th sound.’)
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| Llangollen in Denbighshire |
06-Sept-2023
Llangollen International Eisteddfod
The Dee Bridge and Llangollen Railway
We had arrived yesterday afternoon (see Pontcysyllte and Chirk Castle) so we were already orientated and decided to stroll up to the Royal International Pavilion, though the events there in July are more interesting than the structure itself.
We crossed the River Dee…
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| Crossing Llangollen bridge |
...over the four-arched bridge built in 1345 to replace an earlier wooden structure. It has been much modified, and its origins are
hardly visible in the picture above, though a side view shows the typically
medieval pointed arches.
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| Side View of Llangollen Bridge |
Turning left after the railways station we strolled down Trevor Road.
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| Llangollen Railway Station |
The Llangollen Railway starts at the bridge and follows the lush, green Dee Valley, terminating at Corwen, 15km away. The
old-style signals, and the steam engines – not that I caught one in the photo -
indicate this is a Heritage Railway, run by a charity and manned by volunteers.
A pair of quavers set into the flagstones told us we were on the way to the Pavilion.
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| Two quavers show the way, Llangollen |
Looking up we could see dwellings in the green hills that define the Dee Valley.
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| The green hills of the Dee Valley |
Llangollen Canal and the Royal International Pavilion
Where the road veers close to the Llangollen canal, here navigable by nothing bigger than a kayak, we moved across to walk back along the towpath…
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| Llangollen canal |
…paused to enjoy the reflections in the water…
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| Reflections, Llangollen canal |
…and soon reached the Royal International Pavilion.
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| Royal International Pavilion, Llangollen |
It may not be that impressive from this angle, but could accommodating the whole population of Llangollen, should that ever be required. More importantly it is also the main stage of the Llangollen International Eisteddfod, which
for some raises the question…
What is an Eisteddfod?
An Eisteddfod (pronounced eye-steth-vod) is a Welsh cultural festival involving poetry, music (especially harp and choral music),
storytelling and dance. Although festive in nature, Eisteddfodau (the plural is pronounced eye-steth-vod-eye) are competitive,
with prizes (usually just a certificate) awarded for different disciplines and age
groups. Singing and spoken word competitions are in the Welsh language.
There are many eisteddfodau every year, some small and local, others of national
significance. Major eisteddfodau culminate with the chairing of the bard (the
winning poet) with ‘druidic’ ceremony. This version of Welsh culture, inspired
by the writings of Iolo Morganwg in the 1790s and formalised in the 19th
century by people like William Price (see Manchester, Llantrisant and Beijing) is largely romantic nonsense, though at the time an understandable reaction to the increasing anglicisation of Wales. There are two major events The National Eisteddfod of Wales, first held in its modern form in 1861 has a different venue every year, while the other major event is….
The Llangollen International Eisteddfod?
Held every year since 1947 (Covid-blighted 2020 apart), the festival was established after the war to promote peace and cultural
understanding by bringing together singers, dancers, and musicians from around
the world to compete and perform. They also have major international guests
like Anoushka Shankar, Rolando Villazón or Sir Bryn Terfel (an international
star and a local) and, diversifying from the festival’s folk/classical roots, Nile
Rogers and Van Morrison.
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| Heading back into town |
Plas Newydd and the Ladies of Llangollen
Crossing back over the river, we walked south through the town…
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| Walking south through Llangollen |
…to Plas Newydd.
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| Plas Newydd Llangollen |
‘The Ladies of Llangollen’ – locally ‘The Ladies’ - were two aristocratic Irish women who lived at Plas Newydd for 50 years from 1780.
They were:-
Lady Eleanor Butler (1739-1829), daughter of the Earl of Ormonde of Castle Butler, Kilkenny. Educated in France, her family thought
her ‘an over-educated bookworm.’
and
Sarah Ponsonby (1755-1831), daughter of an MP in the Irish Parliament. Orphaned as a child, Sarah lived with relatives in County Kilkenny.
The two women first met in 1768 and formed a close friendship. Over several years they developed
a plan to seek a rural retreat where they could live an unorthodox life together.
To avoid being forced into unwanted marriages they attempted to leave Kilkenny
together in 1778 but were soon found and forced to return home. Some months
later, accompanied by Sarah’s maid Mary Caryll, they left again, this time with
their families’ acquiescence, if not blessing.
They crossed the Irish Sea and toured Wales, reaching Llangollen in 1780 where they bought Plas Newydd.
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| A bedroom Plas Newydd |
Despite spending their days improving their home, walking in its grounds, planning their garden, reading and writing, but rarely going
out, they somehow caught the public imagination.
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| The Ladies collected fireplaces and other dark wood carvings from all over the region |
Visitors began to arrive. There were poets including Keats, Shelley and Byron; Lady Caroline Lamb (a distant cousin of Sarah’s) came
separately from Byron; Josiah Wedgwood visited, as did his son-in-law Robert
Darwin with his son Charles; the Duke of Wellington called to see them and so
did Anne (Gentlemen Jack) Lister, from Halifax.
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| Stained glass window, Plas Newydd |
Visitors were entertained and (mostly) charmed by the ladies, and in the evening sent off to stay at The Hand Hotel in Llangollen.
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| Servant's bedroom, Plas Newydd |
For a remarkable insight into their lives, I recommend The Ladies who were Famous for Wanting to be Left Alone by American writer/academic Patricia Hampl. It can
be found on Longreads
by clicking the link. (it is not a very long read - 20 minutes well spent, I thought.)
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| A magnificently carved something, Plas Newydd |
Most accounts tell upbeat tales of two women
overcoming difficulties to find happiness together. There is, however, an
aspect to the story Patrica Hampl mentions but briefly and others ignore. Most
reports give dates of birth and death, but the eye easily glosses over those numbers.
Wikipedia says the two women first met in 1768 but Butler was 29,
Ponsonby only 13; two women did not meet, a women met a girl.
They left Kilkenny in 1778 to avoid being forced into unwanted marriages. For the 22-year-old Ponsonby this may have been a real
concern, but at 39 Butler had probably already won that battle.
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| It seems The ladies kept a good table and dined well at Plas Newydd |
Finally, Butler died in 1829 aged 90 whilst Ponsonby died just two years later aged 76, as though she could not cope without the
woman she had depended on for so long.
On the other hand, although Eleanor was apparently the dominant partner, she was not so dominant it disrupted the ‘deep mutual respect
and affection that characterised their life together.’
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| This signed card shows them in the riding habits top hats they affected. Though comfortable and practical, they were undoubtedly eccentric |
Today same-sex relationships are accepted, but the start of their relationship would raise ‘safeguarding issues.’ Most would agree such ‘grooming’ should lead to interventions, and their lives may then have taken very different courses. I wonder, though, whether it would have made them happier. As Danish philosopher Søren Kierkegaard observed, Life can only be understood backwards, but it must be lived forwards.
National Eisteddfod of Wales
Within sight of Plas Newydd is a stone circle. Over a thousand stone circles survive in Britain and Ireland from the Neolithic and
early Bronze Ages, but this is not one of them.
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| Not an ancient stone circle, Llangollen |
Eisteddfodau are as old as Wales, but the cod druidic ceremonial surrounding the Chairing of the Bard at the National Eisteddfod is a
romantic 19th century notion of the past. The ceremony requires a stone circle,
so one is built for the occasion, and usually left behind as a memento. Llangollen
held the event in 1908, We saw another one in 2018 in Beaumaris on the Island of Anglesey.
That post also has a bigger and grander 'Plas Newydd.'
St Collen’s Church
It is a short walk from Plas Newydd…
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| An old man taking a short plod in Llangollen |
… to St Collen’s Church.
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| St Collen's Church, Llangollen |
Llangollen means ‘the church of Collen’ a monk who allegedly arrived by coracle sometime in the 6th or 7th century and built a church. It is
the only church dedicated to St Collen, though, Colan in Cornwall has a church of
St Colanus, and there is a village of Langolen in Finistère, Brittany. He was a well-travelled monk.
In the 13th century, a new church was built on this site in Early English Gothic style. It was altered over the centuries and heavily restored in the 19th. A Grade I listed building, its hammerbeam roof is of particular note.
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| Hammerbeam roof, St Collen's, Llangollen |
Mary Carryl died in 1808 and The Ladies buried her here with a fulsome eulogy. What Mary Carryl gained from this relationship, during her long and loyal service is unknown, but they treated her with great respect after she died.
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| Mary Carryl's stone, St Collen's, Llangollen |
They followed in 1829 and 1831, sharing the plot and the memorial.
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| The graves of The Ladies and their servant |
Unlike the Church of England, the Church in Wales was dis-established (hence the ‘in; rather and ‘of’) in 1920. A century later, they took advantage of being an independent member of the Anglican Community to permit the blessing of same-sex partnerships, thus dipping a toe (maybe more) into the 21st century while the C of E continues to vacillate. Appropriately the first such blessing was conducted in St Collen’s Church in 2021 by the Bishop of St Asaph. It was not conducted by the Vicar of Llangollen as he was half of the partnership being blessed.
Lynne’s Birthday Dinner
In the evening, we made the short walk to The Three Eagles in Bridge Street where we started with crusty bread, olive oil and balsamic
vinegar. Such things were once unknown in rural Wales but times have changed.
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| A gin, some crusty bread and something to dip it in |
We had chosen the Eagles mainly because it offered Stanley Jones Butchers 28-day aged Welsh rump steak. We both like an occasional steak, and two have stuck
in my mind as nearing perfection. In Madeira, festa syle steak was utterly lovely (see Madeira:
Eating and Drinking) while in 2007 the Abercrave (sic) Inn in Abercraf at
the other end of Wales, served a rump of Welsh Black that looked bog-standard
pub steak, but was actually sublime. The Jones Family raise Welsh Blacks just 4
miles from Llangollen.
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| I ordered my steak rare, but by altering the 'saturation' I can make it look anything from well done to raw. |
And very good it was, too, though it did not quite squeeze into my very short list of Platonic Ideals. I am not sure the confit
cherry tomatoes were the best accompaniment, but the chips (there are always chips) were fine and the meat was (almost) as good
as it gets.
07-Sept-2023
Llangollen lacks a castle of its own, but during our wanderings we had a clear view of Castell Dinas Brân (Crow Castle) to the north of the town.
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| Castell Dinas Brân from beside the Dee in Llangollen |
It seemed a good idea to take a look before heading home. As the crow flies, the castle is little over a kilometre from Llangollen Bridge, but the walking routes were not designed by or for crows. Also, the castle is almost 300m (980ft) above the town and the last section is very steep.
Fortunately, a minor road burrows into the hills, rounds the castle to the less steep side and passes a footpath only a 100m (330ft) below the summit.
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| The easy path to Castell Dinas Brân, though it is still over the hill and out of sight |
Leaving the car in the parking space beside the Offa’s Dyke footpath we struggled upwards. Cameras flatten out slopes, but that does
not make them easier to walk up.
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| Lynne struggles up towards Castell Dinas Brân |
We looked down on the car, but although it is on the line of Offa’s Dyke there no dyke to see here.
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| Cars are parked on the left, two thirds of the way up photo. There is no sign of a dyke |
Approaching the castle we passed through a gate appropriately crowned with a crow.
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| Fine crow, Castell Dinas Brân |
The Kingdom of Powys once ruled most of what is now East Wales. There is an unbroken regnal list from the departure of the Romans
in 430 up to 855, though some of the earlier rulers are ‘semi-legendary’ and
their dates are best guesses.
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| Made it to the top! Castell Dinas Brân |
Offa built his eponymous dyke around 780 to protect his Kingdom of Mercia from marauders from the west. In the 9th century Mercia
was absorbed by Wessex and then became part of a newly united England in 937. In 855
Powys was annexed by the Kingdom of Gwynedd.
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| Llangollen from Castell Dinas Brân |
While England united, Wales fractured. The 11th century saw the return of not one Kingdom of Powys but two, one northern, one southern.
Unity is strength, and it was the Welsh kingdoms that now needed to defend themselves from marauders from the east. A wooden Castell Dinas Brân, built around
1200, was rebuilt in stone in the 1260s by Gruffydd Maelor II, Prince of Powys
Fadog.
Edward I became King of England in 1272. After resolving hangovers from the Barons War, and some frustratingly pointless Crusading, he
decided he needed to add to his portfolio. Already King of England, Lord of Ireland
and Duke of Gascony, he thought Wales and Scotland looked attractive additions.
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| Lynne among the ruins, Castell Dinas Brân |
Edward was not a pleasant man, but he was an efficient administrator and ruthless warrior. He took Wales by 1289 and would probably have
taken Scotland, too, had he not died of dysentery marching north in 1307. Edward
gave Castell Dinas Brân and surrounding land to John de Warenne, (who would
later make such a rickets of the Battle of Stirling Bridge - see Stirling post - when Edward sent him to deal with William Wallace). De Warenne did not want
a war-damaged a castle on a hill, so he left it to crumble.
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| Me marching through the ruins, Castell Dinas Brân |
Denbighshire Council erected a board (now rather weather-damaged) showing how the castle might have looked, but making sense of the crumbling masonry as we walked among it was beyond me.
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| Helpful information for the visitor |
There is now little left of Castell Dinas Brân, but it is certainly an atmospheric ruin.
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| Atmospheric ruins |
Valle Crucis Abbey
Driving back round the hill and a little way north on the A452 brought us to the Abbey Church of the
Blessed Virgin Mary more usually known by its Latin name Valle Crucis (in Welsh
Glyn yr Groes) or in English, Valley of the Cross. The abbey was built around
1200 and the site name comes from the Pillar of Elisedd, a cross erected by Cyngen
ap Cadell, King of Powys some 400 years earlier in memory of his great-grandfather, Elisedd ap Gwylog. The pillar still stands in a field beside the Abbey.
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| The Pillar of Elisedd, Valle Crucis |
The Abbey was built by Madog ap Gruffudd Maelor the father of Gruffudd Maelor II
who built Castell Dinas Brân.
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| Eastern end of the Abbey Church, Valle Crucis |
It is tempting to think the rulers of these petty kingdoms on the far western edge of Europe, far from the centres of civilisation, were barbaric and uncouth. In some ways they were, but Valle Crucis Abbey is a fine building.
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| Western end of the Abbey Church, Valle Crucis |
Once completed it housed sixty brethren and 20 choir monks. There were also 40 lay-members who worked in the fields and carried out the day-to-day duties.
A cloister sits next to the main church.
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| Cloister, Valle Crucis |
Between them is what might be termed a Chapter House….
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| Chapter House, Valle Crucis |
….from where a flight of stairs…
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| Stone stairs, Valle Crucis |
…takes you up to a loft where they have a magnificent collection of carved gravestones.
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| Carved Gravestone, Valle Crucis |
The finest of them bears a faded Latin inscription round the lion shield: + HIC IACET : MA/DOC’ : FIL’ : GRIFINI : DCI : VYCHAN –
here lies Madog son of Gruffudd also called Fychan. Gruffudd Fychan II, as he
appears on the regnal list, was the great-grandson of the founder of the abbey
and the last ruler of the Kingdom of Powys (1283-c1309), by then very much a
vassal state. His was also the great-grandfather of Owain Glyndŵr whose long if
ultimately unsuccessful rebellion led to him claiming to be Prince of Wales
from 1400 to 1415.
The Abbey dissolved itself in 1537 when Henry VIII did not think it rich enough to bother with. After that it had a chequered career, as
a ruin, a manor house and a farm before finally being rescued by CADW.
And having seen Valle Crucis, we went home.
Lynne's Birthday Jaunts
2018: Harrogate
2019: Forest of Dean
Part 2:Coleford and Around
Part 3:Puzzlewood and The Kymin
2021: Liverpool
Part 2: The Waterfront, The Cavern Club and St George's Quarter
Part 3: Ferry 'Cross the Mersey and the Anglican Cathedral
2022: Newtown
2023: Dee Valley
Part 2: Llangollen
2024: Caernafon
