A Lion Hunt and a Visit to Junagadh: Gujarat Part 9

Gujarat: The What, Where, When and Who

India

Gujarat

This post covers day 9 of a 14-day journey around Gujarat, following our circuit of Rajasthan last year. Smaller than Rajasthan, Gujarat is about the size of the Island of Great Britain and has much the same population.

5,000 years ago, Gujarat was a centre of the Indus Valley civilization and subsequently played its part in most of the major north Indian empires. When Islamic invaders reached northern India in the 9th century Gujarat held out until 1300 when it became part of the Delhi Sultanate.

This day starts in Sasan Gir in the south of the Kathiawar Peninsular. We then travel to Gondal via Junagadh (not the straight line on the map!)

An independent Muslim sultan seized power in 1391and Gujarat maintained its independence until becoming part of the Mughal Empire in the 16th century and later the British Empire, though local rulers of a patchwork of Princely States retained considerable autonomy. At independence in 1947 Gujarat was part of the State of Bombay, becoming a state in its own right in 1960.

With a long coast line facing the Arabian sea, Gujaratis have been seafarers and international traders for millennia.

Gujarat is the home state of both Mahatma Gandhi and the current Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi.

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Lion Hunting in the Gir National Park

For the second day running we were up and out when the day was still dark and cool. When Vijay met us in the lobby he asked if we had seen the sign on the hotel’s long drive. We hadn’t, so he informed us that guests are advised not to walk along the drive at night as there are many leopards in the area. I wished we had gone out; I would give my right arm for a close encounter with a leopard. Though perhaps that could be taken too literally.

L drove us up to Sasan Gir village square where tickets for the Gir National Park were sold and punters were allocated to jeeps. The park opens at six and by then we were in one of a small fleet of jeeps queuing by the entrance. Fortunately, the number of vehicles is limited and Gir is large enough to absorb them all without feeling overcrowded.

The park is part of the Kathiawar-Gir dry deciduous forests ecoregion, and for a while all we saw were dry, deciduous trees.

 Kathiawat- Gir dry deciduous forest ecosystem - looks exactly like you would expect

Further from the park entrance, spotted deer became numerous...

Spotted deer, Gir National Park

...but not all the park’s creatures are so cute, indeed I would be quite happy not to encounter any of the collection of highly venomous snakes - king cobra, Russell’s viper, saw-scaled viper, krait - promised on the website. Our hope was to see a lion – Sasan Gir is the last stronghold of the Asiatic lion – but after four fruitless attempts to see a tiger in Ranthambhore and Nagarhole, we travelled more in hope that expectation.

Present and historic distribution of lions
I cannot remember where I found this map, but 'historic' is a bit vague. We were exactly where the blue arrow points to the only place in Asia where lions can still be found

We soon found a paw print – a good sign, no doubt, but we saw tiger prints in Nagarhole but never the paw that made them.

Lion's paw print - and tyre tracks - Gir National Park

The routine on all these jaunts is to drive to a likely spot, stop, look, listen and wait, and several minutes later give up and drive on. We did this a couple of times and then we heard some growling, very loud growling, as though the growler was sitting in the jeep with us. ‘Lion,’ the ranger said, ‘about 500m away’. If they sound like that from 500m they must be deafening, not to mention terrifying, close to. So, we knew there was a lion close, we knew the direction but was it accessible?

We drove on. There were more dry, deciduous trees,…

More dry, deciduous trees, Gir National Park

…more spotted deer…

More spotted deer, Gir National Park

…and a couple of peacocks, which are two-a-penny throughout India…

Peacocks, Gir National Park

…but no lions. The driver, though, was in radio contact with other jeeps and he knew something we did not. Rounding a corner, we found three or four jeeps already parked.

A lioness lay on the ground among the trees less than 50m away. She was accompanied by a couple of cubs, one much smaller than the cub in the picture. She had arranged herself so we were looking straight into the low morning sun, which did not help with the photographs but we were delighted that our lion hunt had proved successful after tigers had been so elusive.

Lioness (playing dead) and cub, Gir National Park

She then sat up, as if to prove she was real. The reference to ‘historic distribution’ above is vague, but until the 19th century lions could be found in Saudi Arabia, eastern Turkey, Mesopotamia and elsewhere in India, and the last lions in Iran were seen in the 1940s. Now the 500 or so in Gujarat are the only lions outside Africa.

Lioness couchant, Gir National Park

The Asiatic lion is not a separate species but part of the same subspecies as the lions of west and northern parts of Central Africa.

We hoped to see more carnivores but the leopards, jackals, striped hyenas and Indian foxes all kept their heads down. We saw no Chowsingha – the world’s only four horned antelope – nor even the common sambar deer. The only other mammals we encountered were the ubiquitous grey langurs, northern-plains grey langurs to be more precise, but did we care? No, not once we had seen the lion.

Northern-plains grey langur, Gir National Park

And there were birds; there are four in the picture below, an egret at the back, possibly another egret in front - it looks the wrong shape, but cattle egrets in particular bunch up like that – and in front of that a pond heron (I think). Above them is a white-throated kingfisher….

Two egrets, a heron and a kingfisher, Gir National Park

….though I have a better picture of him. I have always thought ‘white-throated’ an odd name, their iridescent blue backs are by far their most noticeable feature, particularly in flight.

White-throated kingfisher, Gir National Park

Spotted owls hid themselves among the bare, twisted branches,...

Spotted owl hiding in bare branches, Gir National Park

… but then we saw an owlet sleeping in a hole in a tree – and for once the sun was in the right place, too.

Spotted owlet, Gir National Park

The owlet was the final highlight of our 3-hour trip round Gir National Park. We had spent even more time than usual searching for creatures to look at, but today few were co-operating; I might even have called it a disappointing trip, but we saw a lion, so all else is forgiven.

We returned to our hotel for breakfast. From our room we could see a stream where women were washing clothes - hard work but the setting makes it look strangely relaxed.

Laundry, observed from our hotel bedroom, Sasan Gir

Then we set off for Junagadh, a city of some 300,000 people 80km (2½ hours driving) away.

Junagadh: Uparkot

Uparkot Fort stands in a wooded area on the eastern edge of the city. Its origins are claimed to be in a Mauryan dynasty fort built in 319 BCE and abandoned in the 6th century.

The Mauryan fort may have been re-discovered 300 years later during rule of the Chudasamas, or maybe not. The Chudasama dynasty ruled the Kathiawar peninsula from the late 9th century until 1472 with their capital moving periodically between Junagadh and Vanthali, 20km to the west. Their early history is lost and the bardic legends are contradictory, but one story tells that when the Chudasama capital was at Vanthali a woodcutter slashing his way through the forest discovered stone walls, a gate and a meditating holy man. The woodcutter asked the name of the place, but the holy man just replied "juna" (old). The woodcutter returned to Vanthali, and reported his discovery to the ruler who ordered the forest be cleared. The fort duly emerged and as no one knew its name or history it was called "Juna-gadh" (old fort).

Uparkot Fort,Junagadh

This story may tell of Graharipu, a 10th century Chudasama ruler rediscovering the ancient Mauryan fort or, more likely, of Vanthali based Navaghana (reigned 1026-44, maybe) re-discovering Graharipu’s fort at Junagadh.

Inside Uparkot Fort, Junagadh

Probably the Mauryan fort is lost and the current structure was started by Graharipu. Much of it is medieval, and the roof was raised several times as attackers became capable of propelling missiles further and higher. The cannons now dotted round the fort would have been a source of amazement to Graharipu.

Cannon on the roof of Uparkot Fort, Junagadh 

It is probable that in their later years the Chudasama were vassals of either the Delhi Sultanate or the Sultan of Gujarat, but even that notional independence came to an end in 1472 when Sultan Mahmud Begada of Gujarat defeated the last Chudasama king and annexed his territory. We saw Mahmud Begada’s tomb at Sarkhej Rosa on Day 1 of this journey.

Mahmud Begada built the adjacent Jama Mosque.

Juma Mosque, Uparkot, Junagadh

It no longer functions as a mosque and the inside is in poor repair. The floor has been colonised by those wishing to sell water, snacks and selfie-sticks…

Inside the Juma Mosque, Uparkot, Junagadh

…while the mihrab is a roost for pigeons.

Mihrab, Juma Mosque, Uparkot, Junagadh

From the roof there was a good view of Girnar mountain with a Jain Temple, 10,000 steps up it. After climbing 3,800 steps at Palitana yesterday we were happy to miss out, but Vijay said he had made the ascent a couple of times. The last time he was nearly down when a child ran into him, propelling him precipitately down the last dozen steps. The child bounced, as children do, but Vijay’s leg was in plaster for a month.

Girnar Mountain. The temples can be seen faintly through the haze, as can the line of steps

The Uparkot Buddhist Caves are barely 50m from the fort.

The Buddhist Caves, Uparkot - the brick pillars are later and for safety

Three storeys were excavated by scooping from the top and the decorations suggest this happened in the 1st or 2nd century CE though the cultural debris retrieved is mostly from 200 years later.

Satvahana decorations used for dating the Buddhist Caves, Uparkot

It is not known who dug this, or why, or even why Buddhism died out in the country of its birth while thriving to south, east and north. The niches were presumably intended for Buddha statues, but are now all empty.

In the absence of a statue, meditate, Buddha Caves, Uparkot

The Adi-Chadi Vav, a narrow forbidding stepwell, very unlike the elaborate wells we have seen at Adalaj near Ahmedabad and Patan is next to the caves.

Entrance to the Adi-Chadi Vav, Uparkot

Walking to Navghan Kuvo, yet another stepwell, we passed a spice stall. The opportunity to buy bigger than usual quantities at smaller than usual prices was irresistible. Pepper, cumin and cloves quickly went into our bag and then there was an unknown seed which tasted good, so we had some of that. Its name sounded like ajama, and it is, I learned later, a spice we know by its Hindi name ajwain, or as it appears in many recipes ajwain, if not available use caraway. It is spicier than caraway but less aniseed-y, so I am not convinced it is an ideal substitute – not that I will have to make that substitution for some time.

Spice stall, Uparkot

A staircase through an arched doorway...

Entrance to Navghan Kuvo stepwell, Uparkot, Junagadh 

….leads to the forecourt of the Navghan Kuvo stepwell. Here, accommodation for pigeons has been burrowed into the soft rock.

Forecourt to Navghan Kuvo stepwell, Uparkot, Junagadh

The well takes its name from Ra Navaghana an 11th century Chudasama king, but he only built the forecourt, the well below is considerably older, maybe the oldest in Gujarat. Its age is disputed; it was built either in the Kshatrapa period (2nd-4th century CE) or the Maitraka period (6th-7th century CE) – definitely not the 5th century, then.

Navghan Kuvo stepwell, Uparkot, Junagadh

More stairs lead to the top of a rectangular well-shaft and the water is reached by a staircase cut through the rock around the shaft. Square holes in the stone wall illuminate and cool the inside.

Ashoka Rock Edict

Before heading into town for an increasingly overdue lunch, L drove us east to the road for the Girnar Hills. On the edge of the city, housed in a little white pavilion, is the Ashoka Rock Edict.

Ashoka's Rock Edict, Junagadh

Ashoka was the grandson of Chandragupta Maurya, founder of the Mauryan Empire which ruled most of India from 322-180 BCE. Ashoka started his rule (268) as Ashoka the Cruel, but reputedly underwent an epiphany after viewing the carnage of the Kalinga War (263). He decided to put Buddhism into practice and by his death (232) had become Ashoka the Great. His edicts are a collection of over thirty inscriptions on pillars, boulders and cave walls – we previously encountered a shattered pillar at Sarnath near Varanasi. They describe Ashoka's conversion and his efforts to spread Buddhism, his moral and religious precepts, and his programme for social and animal welfare. The script and language vary, this one is apparently in a local dialect using the Brahmi script.

Part of Ashoka's Rock Edict, written in Ujjaini using the Brahmi script (as I am sure you spotted)

Central Junagadh

We lunched on samosas and pakoras at the Petal Restaurant in central Junagadh, then L drove us to the Darbar Hall Museum. Unusually I have no photos of this, nor any memory of it. Tour my India’s review promised, …[a] beautiful old palace… preserving the treasures.. [and] …   possession of the Nawabs… 2900 artefacts,.. picture gallery, palanquin room, textile and costumes, weapons, etc. Lynne’s noted tersely ‘weapons but otherwise not memorable.’

Next stop was the Sardar Patel Darwaja, back in the same street as the restaurant. It was one of the city gates, but the growth of Junagadh means it is now almost in the centre.

Sardar Patel Darwaja, city gate, Junagadh

 A short walk away is the Mahabat Maqbara, built in 1892 over the grave of Nawab Mahabat Khan II. As Nawab he oversaw an extensive building programme in the city, commissioning schools and colleges, a hospital, markets and courts, many in a unique Venetian-Gothic style.

Nawab Mahabat Khan II (ruled 1851-82)
Borrowed, with thanks, from RoyalArk.net

It is perhaps appropriate then that his mausoleum is a mixture of Islamic, Hindu and European styles. The signboard asked us to admire the ‘floor to lintel French windows with Gothic Columns.’

Mahabat Maqbara, Junagadh

Round the other side there is less European influence though the minarets (this is not a mosque, but there is one next door) were apparently modelled on a helter-skelter. An architect has to be good to mix styles successfully and whoever was responsible for this dog’s breakfast was not up to it (in my opinion – and my qualifications as an architectural critic are non-existent).

Mahabat Maqbara, Junagadh

Mahabat Khan II’s grandson Mahabat Khan III became Nawab in 1911 aged 11 and Junagadh was looked after by the British administrator until he reached his majority. After which he appears to have been a popular ruler.

Mahabat Khan III
Also borrowed, with thanks, from RoyalArk.net

At independence in 1947, India's 565 largely self-governing Princely States were given the options of joining India or Pakistan or remaining independent. Lord Mountbatten, the outgoing British Viceroy, had assumed that states would choose the country they were surrounded by, leaving real choice only to those along the projected border, but the assumption was never put into law. Mahabat Khan, a Muslim ruler of an overwhelmingly Hindu state, duly declared Junagadh for Pakistan, pointing out it was connected to the rest of Pakistan by sea. Two small vassal states immediately rebelled and the general population became restive. Indian forces moved to the Junagadh border and the Nawab fled to Pakistan, leaving his Dewan (prime minister) in charge. Whether India actually invaded is still debated, but the Dewan accepted the reality of the situation, a plebiscite followed and Junagadh voted overwhelmingly to become Indian. Neither Pakistan nor India acted particularly honourably, the issue still generates heat among the few who care, and the legal case at the UN remains unsettled – but a Hindu majority exclave of Pakistan within India? That could never have worked.

Interesting but irrelevant: the Dewan was Sir Shahnawaz Bhutto, father of Zulfikar Ali Bhutto, Prime Minister of Pakistan from 1973-1977, he was ousted in a military coup and executed, and grandfather of Benazir Bhutto, Prime minister of Pakistan 1988-90 and 1993-6, assassinated 2007.

We were not quite finished with Junagadh. A shopping mall has been built over the former home of 15th century poet-saint Narsin Mehta…

Narsin Mehta's appears on the wall above the site of his former home, Junagadh

  ….but a shrine to the great man occupies part of the basement. I am unsure why we visited a shrine to a poet we had never heard of, but so it goes.

Narsin Mehta shrine, Junagadh

We then set off for Gondal, some 90 minutes away. En route we saw a family going in the opposite direction….

Family on the move, between Junagadh and Gondal

…and a load of straw going our way.

Straw on the move, Between Junagadh and Gondal

At Gondal we checked into the Orchard Palace Hotel, another former Maharaja’s palace.

Gujarat

Part 1: Ahmedabad (1) Liquor Licences, Mosques and Tombs
Part 2: Ahmedabad (2) A Stepwell, Gandhi and a Thali
Part 3: Meeting the Locals
Part 4: Siddhpur, Patan and Modhera
Part 5: Salt and Wild Asses in the Little Rann of Kutch
Part 6: Blackbuck National Park, Velavadar
Part 7: Bhavnagar
Part 8: Palitana and the Temples on Shatrunjaya Hill
Part 9: A Lion Hunt and a Visit to Junagadh
Part 10: Gondal
Part 11: Gondal to Bhuj
Part 12: Bhuj
Part 13: To the Great Rann of Kutch, Craft Villages and a Salt Desert
Part 14: Going to School and Other Entertainments in the Great Rann of Kutch