The South West Odyssey was a long distance walk.
Five like-minded people started in 2008 from the Cardingmill Valley in Shropshire and by walking three days a year finished at Start Bay on the South Devon Coast in May 2019.
Saturday promised to be a much better day; the rain had
gone, the wind had dropped and there was even a patch of blue in the sky.
Brian, Mike & Francis prepare to leave the Dog Inn Old Sodbury |
After another hearty breakfast and with Alison duly
re-fetched from Yate station we set off southwards across the fields towards
the hamlet of Coomb's End.
Nearing Coomb's End |
Dodington Park |
A few deer would have made the view perfect, but we had to
settle for a large metal sculpture of a stag watching us motionlessly from a
distant bank.
Plenty of sheep but no deer, Dodington Park |
The park provides a painless way of slipping back onto the
Cotswold scarp. At its highest point we could look back over the valley and see
the pylons of the Severn Bridge in the distance.
Crossing the park took some time, crossing the A46 was quicker, much less pleasant and considerably more dangerous. Having survived that it was only a short step to the village of Tormarton where we were meeting Heather, Francis and Alison’s daughter, who last walked with us on Day 11 (Perrott’s Brook).
Heather walked out of Tormarton on the path she had expected us to arrive on and saw us across the fields on another path, though we did not see her. Even after this early sighting we had considerable difficulty finding each other. Several phone calls simply added to the confusion.
Tormarton is not large, so we eventually we succeeded and
together left the village via the bridge over the M4.
Over the M4 |
On the southern side we crossed fields of barley, the first
cereal crop we had seen since Bredon Hill in 2010.
The Cotswold Way took us west along Beacon Lane and back
towards the motorway. Brian was very proud of his new walking poles which he
had bought for the princely sum of 100 Hong Kong dollars (£8) in Stanley Market.
They had been unveiled on Thursday and bent on Friday so they no longer
telescoped properly and Brian was walking with a lightning conductor sticking
up above his head. It is a wonderful place, Stanley Market, sometimes you get a
bargain, sometimes you get what you pay for.
Brian carries his periscope along Beacon Lane |
We re-crossed the A46 and visited the adjacent picnic site
for coffee. With a car park and vehicle inspection centre it is not the most
scenic spot, but looks fine if you point the camera in the right direction.
A sedge of Cranes at the feeding table |
The Cotswold Way runs briefly parallel to the M4 giving an
interesting view of the motorway climbing the hill opposite.
An unusual view of the M4 |
We turned south and followed the boundary of another cereal
field for the next kilometre. Yesterday’s rain had smeared the compacted soil
with a slick of wet clay, making it difficult walking; at times it was a
struggle to keep upright.
I was glad to reach the end of this field and we soon found
ourselves traversing the edge of a small valley below the wall of Dyrham Park. The
valley side was covered with strip lynchets, banks of earth built up on the
downslope of the field by generations of ploughing. Lynchets usually indicate
Celtic farming and although they appear regularly on maps they are not always so
easy to see on the ground.
Strip lynchets on the far side of the valley |
We descended to the hamlet of Dyrham, passing the western frontage of Dyrham Park, built in 1694. The eastern front, the work of a different architect, was built a few years later. The house, constructed for William Blathwayt, Secretary of War to William III, is now owned by the National Trust. It featured in the films Remains of the Day (1993) and Baz Luhrmann’s Australia (2008) as well as a 2010 episode of Doctor Who.
The western front of Dyrham Park |
Beyond the village we found ourselves in the flattest land we had encountered since crossing the Severn Valley at the end of 2009 and start of 2010.
Approaching Doynton |
The signed paths did not match up with those on the map so we arrived in Doynton unsure as to exactly where we were. Lynne waited patiently outside the pub while we indulged in a lengthy and misguided circumnavigation of the village before joining her. The Cross House was doing good business on a Saturday lunchtime, and the weather had improved so much that we chose to drink our lunch in the garden – though Lynne did not think it was warm enough to remove her fleece.
A glass of lunch in the garden of the Cross House Doynton |
Doynton cricket club - questionable tactics |
With these questions still unasked we headed up Toghill Lane, climbing the Cotswold scarp for the seventh time in three days. Over the A420 we continued along the top of the hill to join Freezinghill Lane, a B road which was narrow and very busy. It was warmer than its name suggests, but the traffic made it an uncomfortable place to be and we were stuck with it for some 500m. We found what should have been our exit but the footpath sign had been reclaimed by the hedge and there was no way through.
The wooden footpath sign had been reclaimed by the hedge Freezinghill Lane |
We backtracked to a gateway, and improvised our own route through the long grass.......
through the long grass |
Down Freezing Hill |
Once we had descended there was nothing for it but to start
our eighth and final ascent. The Cotswolds may not be the largest of hills, and
the scarp may be higher in some places than others, but climbing up and down it
nine times in three days is hard work. Hanging Hill is a grassy slope, the path
zig-zagging upwards through a herd of cows. Reaching the top, we arrived at the
site of the Battle of Lansdown.
Hanging Hill, site of the Battle of Lansdown in 1643 |
The battle, on July the 5th 1643, was not one of the major confrontations of the Civil War, but it did involve some 10 000 men and resulted in the deaths of 300 of them, mostly Royalists. It was a Royalist victory, in that they pushed the Parliamentarian army from their hilltop stronghold, but they lost so many men they were unable to complete their strategic aim of taking Bath.
From the top we had views over the outskirts of Bristol, the
rest of the city stretching away into the distance.
Bristol from the top of Hanging Hill |
Tracking along the top of the hill, we failed to find the
remains of the Roman villa marked on the map, but Lansdown Golf Course was
easier to locate. The golf club had signed a route outside the course, but
Francis was adamant that we should take the slightly shorter right-of-way round
top of the scarp. This involved walking along the edge of a couple of fairways
and we were fortunate that no shouts of ‘fore’ came our way.
The long descent started down the golf course access road
towards the hamlet of North Stoke. Somewhere along this path we entered
Somerset having taken 8 days to cross Gloucestershire (though hardly in a
straight line). We finished the descent on yet another sunken lane which
deposited us at a picnic site in Swineford near the banks of the ‘Bristol’ Avon, not
to be confused with the ‘Warwickshire’ Avon which we crossed (in
Worcestershire!) in 2010, nor any of the Avons in Hampshire, Devon or
Strathspey.
Down to North Stoke |
We had survived a day of rain and a day of wind and enjoyed
a day of sunshine. Perhaps it will be sunshine all the way when (all being well) we meet here in
2013 for the next instalment; and perhaps it won't. All that remained was to return
various people to their cars and then to drive home. For us that meant a trip
from Swineford (near North Stoke) to Swynnerton (near Stoke-on-Trent) - from a
place where pigs can cross a river, to a homestead where pigs are kept; a feeble
effort from a region that can offer such nominal splendours as Pucklechurch, Mangotsfield
and Wickwar.
The South West Odyssey (English Branch)
Day 1 to 3 (2008);Cardingmill Valley to Great Whitley
Day 4 to 6 (2009) Great Whitely to Upton-on-Severn via the Malvern Ridge
Day 11 (2011) Perrott's Brook to the Round Elm Crossroads
Day 12 (2011) Walking Round Stroud
Day 13 (2012) Stroud to North Nibley
Day 14 (2012) North Nibley to Old Sodbury
Day 15 (2012) Old Sodbury to Swineford
Day 16 (2013) Along the Chew Valley
Day 17 (2013) Over the Mendips to Wells
Day 18 (2013) Wells to Glastonbury 'The Mountain Route'
Day 19 (2014) Glastonbury to Langport
Day 20 (2014) Along the Parrett and over the Tone
Day 21 (2014) Into the Quantocks
Day 22 (2015) From the Quantocks to the Sea
Day 23 (2015) Watchet, Dunster and Dunkery Hill
Day 24 (2015) Dunkery Beacon to Withypool
Day 25 (2016) Entering Devon and Leaving Exmoor
Day 26 (2016) Knowstone to Black Dog on the Two Moors Way
Day 27 (2016) Morchard Bishop to Copplestone
Day 28 (2017) Down St Mary to Drewsteignton
Day 29 (2017) Drewsteignton to Bennett's Cross
Day 30 (2017) Bennett's Cross to Lustleigh
Day 31 (2018) Southwest Across the Moor from Lustleigh
Day 32 (2018): South to Ugborough
Day 33 (2018): Ugborough to Ringmore
Day 34 (2019): Around the Avon Estuary to Hope Cove
Day 35 (2019): Hope Cove to Prawle Point
Day 36 (2019): Prawle Point to Start Bay: The End
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The Last Post
That's All Folks - The Odyssey is over
Day 25 (2016) Entering Devon and Leaving Exmoor
Day 26 (2016) Knowstone to Black Dog on the Two Moors Way
Day 27 (2016) Morchard Bishop to Copplestone
Day 28 (2017) Down St Mary to Drewsteignton
Day 29 (2017) Drewsteignton to Bennett's Cross
Day 30 (2017) Bennett's Cross to Lustleigh
Day 31 (2018) Southwest Across the Moor from Lustleigh
Day 32 (2018): South to Ugborough
Day 33 (2018): Ugborough to Ringmore
Day 34 (2019): Around the Avon Estuary to Hope Cove
Day 35 (2019): Hope Cove to Prawle Point
Day 36 (2019): Prawle Point to Start Bay: The End
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The Last Post
That's All Folks - The Odyssey is over
I really enjoyed Donington Park especially when we all watched a fox gambling across the grass from one wood to another. When it belatedly spotted us, it decided to leg it hell for leather - possibly not sure of the purpose of Brian's periscope.
ReplyDeleteIs sedge really the collective name for a group of Cranes or are you making it up as you go?
I don't know why I forgot the fox when writing this, he really was rather splendid. I ought to go back and insert him into the narrative. However, as he had no dice, cards or roulette wheel I suspect he was gambolling across the grass, not gambling.
ReplyDeleteI don't know why I am assuming the fox was a 'he', it could well have been a she.
A 'sedge' is the correct name for a group of Cranes - at least according to the ever reliable Wikipedia. The slightly more authoritative Chambers only has sedge (or siege) as a company of herons or bitterns, but that's close enough for me.
Thanks for your reply and indeed for the three excellent, amusing and informative blogs.
DeleteMy daughter, who is now an authority on all things Bristolian, says that we were OK using the car park where the A46 meets the M4 as a mid-morning break because it was daytime. Rather more dubious activities than sipping coffee or hot chocolate take place there in the evening.
DeleteWe were, of course, beyond reproach in the Dog Inn later.
In fairness to the good traders of Stanley Market they did not specifically say their poles were intended to be used on English country walks. I am fairly sure they would be perfectly good used by little old chinese ladies for helping them get round the streets and by-ways of Hong Kong. It was completely my error to think they would do the same job as their european( Chinese made )equivalent! Lesson learnt -I got what I paid for!!
ReplyDelete