Ohrid to the Albanian Border Along Lake Ohrid's Eastern Shore: Part 13 of The Balkans

Lakeside Villages Ancient & Modern, Sveti Naum and a Possible Source of the Black Drin River

North Macedonia

Breakfast in Ohrid

Breakfast in Ohrid, like everywhere else except the Popova Kula winery, was eggs usually boiled sometimes scrambled and a selection of cold meats and mild cheeses. Macedonian bread, white and brown is pleasantly chunky but it all becomes a bit repetitive after a while though the olives - big, juicy and full of flavour - were a redeeming feature.

Elšani in the Galičica National Park

After a leisurely start we set off beneath a blue sky, driving south round the lake shore. After 10 km a side road took us into the hills of the Galičica National Park. Roads only graze the edge of the mountain wilderness and we ventured no further than the village of Elšani perched on a ledge above the lake. After dark in Ohrid we had seen lights twinkling from a gap in the forest, high on the mountainside - that was Elšani (probably).

The post covers a short drive from Ohrid down the east coast of the lake to the Albanian border

The village was further than we expected, several kilometres from the cluster of dwellings around the turn-off. We parked in the square and walked back in search of the church which is reputed to have a fine view of the lake. Like many local villages there is much building work, the new houses looking large and prosperous. Ironically, Elšani was the only place in Macedonia we saw a working animal, a donkey laden with twigs.

Working donkey, Elšani

Walking up the hill we found no church but there was a good view of Lake Ohrid lying below us, placid and blue and bathed in sunshine, though the clouds were gathering. At the edge of the village the dwellings looked sad and dilapidated, but we were unsure whether or not they were occupied.

Lake Ohrid from Elšani

We found the church as we left the village. It was lower down than we had expected, the view was no better than we had already seen and the building was locked.

Gradište, the Bay of Bones and a (Reconstructed) Village on Stilts

Returning to the ‘main’ road, though it is hardly big enough to justify that title, we continued south and soon passed through the small village of Gradište. On its southern edge, overlooked by the earthworks of a small Roman castellum, is the overdramatically named Bay of Bones. A stilt village on the lake existed here from the early Bronze to the late Iron Age. The site has been the centre of much underwater archaeology, which has including the bringing up of the remains of some of the former inhabitants - hence the name.

'Bay of Bones' stilt village, Gradište

The small museum has retained some interesting artefacts from the old village, but the new tourist development is the rebuilt ‘ancient village’. We were not the only visitors but it was hardly crowded; maybe we were too early in the season.

As we crossed the bridge to the village the gathering clouds decided it was time for rain. We sat in one the wattle and daub huts, pleased that the new thatch was doing its job effectively. The original inhabitants must have often listened to the pattering of rain on thatch – and also to a loud and persistent honking noise from a little further away.

Waiting for the rain to pass in Bronze Age luxury, Gradište

Frogs in Lake Ohrid

When the rain stopped we went to investigate, pretty sure we knew what the noise was, but uncertain if we would be able to see the perpetrators. In fact they were obvious, liberally dotting the surface of the lake. The honking of Lake Ohrid's frogs is renowned and they were living up to their billing, the males lying in the water and puffing out their cheeks. I do not think it's a good look, or a good noise, but then I am not a female frog.

Lake Ohrid frog in amorous mode

Picnic tables, each with their own thatched roof, had been set out on the slope between the car park and the museum, and as we had acquired the wherewithal for a picnic yesterday evening in Ohrid, we decided to eat in the dry.

Trpejca - Lakeside Village

After lunch we drove on to the next village. Trpejca, apart from being almost unpronounceable, is a traditional lake side village, though inevitably tourism is changing its face. The passing shower had moved on to bother someone else by the time we parked in the village square and walked down to the lake through streets free from cars - their narrowness dissuades drivers, but the street's habit of occasionally turning into steps is a clincher.

Trpejca

Without tides or large waves lakeside fishing villages get much closer to the water than seaside villages would ever dare. Trpejca has a narrow shingle beach on which boats were pulled up. I took off my sandals and paddled in the warm crystal clear water, but the shingle was extraordinarily painful to stand on.

The waterfront, Trpejca

The village was very quiet and the restaurants along the front were empty. It was warm and sunny now the rain had passed, but the season had clearly not yet arrived.

The water is clear and warm, the pebbles sharp - Lake Ohrid, Trpejca

The Monastery of Sveti Naum

A further 7km on is Ljubaništa, the last village in Macedonia some 4km from the Albanian border. Turning off the road after two of those four kilometres took us to the monastery of Sveti Naum. This is the end of the road and the main tourist attraction on this shore. The car park was busy, but far from full.

We walked down a path through a line of souvenir stalls, past a couple of restaurants that were doing good business and found what appeared to be the entrance to the monastery, which in part also seems to be a hotel.

The monastery was founded in 905 by St Naum of Ohrid, who is also buried here. He was a Bulgarian/Macedonian monk (the distinction is more recent than most Macedonians are willing to admit) and a disciple of Saints Cyril and Methodius. He accompanied them to Bohemia and contributed to the development of the Glagolitic script. On returning to Ohrid, he assisted in the development of a Slavonic liturgy to replace the existing Greek liturgy and so establish Bulgarian cultural independence from Byzantium.

He died in 910 and is buried in his own church which, with the usual Macedonian reluctance to sign anything, we eventually found in a courtyard of the monastery/hotel.

The Church of Sveti Naum in the monastery of the same name, between Ljubaništa and the Albanian border

It is a beautiful old building with the usual medieval frescoes and icons. Near the door is the tomb of Sveti Naum himself, and legend says that if you put your ear to the tomb you can hear his heartbeat. We diligently knelt on the floor, and laid our ears just about where his heart should be, listened hard and heard.....nothing. I was mildly disappointed, but hardly surprised.

The Icononstasis, Sveti Naum, between Ljubaništa and the Albanian border

Like all Macedonian churches the walls are covered in frescoes and as the aged monk selling tickets stayed in a booth outside I ventured a photograph or two. I particularly liked a painting appearing to show winged horses attempting to pull a cart in several directions at once. Lynne, with her biblical knowledge, assured me it was a depiction of the Assumption of Elijah and the horses are all working together to pull his chariot upwards into heaven.

Elijah being carried up to heaven - though it looks more likely they will pull the chariot apart
Sveti Naum, between Ljubaništa and the Albanian border

To the Source of the Black Drin River (Possibly)

Leaving Sveti Naum we walked back towards the car park, with large blue lake Ohrid on our left and a smaller darker looking lake on our right. What all visitors to Sveti Naum should do, once they have failed to hear his heart beat, is seek out what may be the source of the Black Drin River.

A man was just rowing his previous clients back to the landing stage, and as there was no one else about he fixed his beady eye on us. We settled a price (in Euros) climbed aboard his boat and he rowed us off across the black waters of the lake to its farthest shore.

Rowing to the source of the Black Drin

Although black, the waters are unbelievably clear and clean, and kept that way in part by a ban on motors - hence the rowing. We could see fish, the inevitable frogs and a just a few of the many birds living among the reed beds, but the most remarkable sight was the source itself, water bubbling up through the sandy bottom of the lake. Several more conventional springs surround the end of the lake.

Underwater springs, the source of the Black Drin (maybe)

After our boat trip we walked to where the waters of the black lake discharge into Lake Ohrid. There is a considerable drop from one to the other, and the water rushes through at the sort of pace that you might imagine would empty the smaller lake. Of course it does not; the springs beneath and around the lake must be pumping out far more water than it would appear to the casual observer.

Reed beds near the 'source of the Black Drin'

The official source of the Crno Drin is at Struga where it leaves the lake. The name is often half translated as Black Drin, which is inconsistent, but makes it sound dark, mysterious and slightly dangerous. What we had seen is touted as being the river’s source, but whether it can really be described as the same river is doubtful, though it is claimed the water forms a definite flow through the lake.

Where the Back Drin enters Lake Ohrid

Back to Ohrid and an Excellent Dinner

Leaving Sveti Naun we returned to Ohrid.

In the evening we dined at a restaurant with the Cyrillic name of сун, which should be transliterated ‘sun’ but the management had taken the unfortunate decision to write CUN in large letters over the door.

At seven thirty the place was filling with diners, most of them foreigners. Ohrid is a major holiday resort, but largely for Macedonians. Finding so many foreigners gathered at this one restaurant was maybe related to it being unequivocally a restaurant, most other establishments were bar-restaurants and Macedonians tend to drink out rather than eat out.

Over a glass of mastika we perused a menu dominated by skara (grilled meats). I ordered calve's liver while Lynne chose dolma. The wine list was laid out by winery, and we plumped for a vranec from the Stobi Winery we had passed at Grasko. The waiter shook his head, saying the vranec from Popova Kula (the winery we had stayed at in Demir Kapija) was far better. Cynics might wonder if his enthusiasm for Popova Kula was based on it being 150 denar more expensive, but I let him talk me into it. The wine’s dark smoky depths went so well with the dolma and the succulent slices of liver lightly charred on the grill, and with the dolma, that the waiter’s opinion was entirely vindicated.

I am a fan of Vranec which produces most of the best red wines of Bosnia, Macedonia and Montenegro (and probably of other nearby countries of which I am yet ignorant.) At its best, as here, it is a dark red wine with a rich smokiness, grippy tannins, ripe plummy fruit and balancing acidity. It has fruit, complexity and structure, all the things wine buffs bang on about, so why then, I wonder is it unknown outside the Balkans?

We just had enough space to share a couple of desserts; ice cream and Ohrid cake. The local cake is on all menus, and although the cake itself is nothing special it comes steeped in syrup, making it irresistible.

A complimentary glass of Rakija, Macedonian brandy, rounded off a very pleasant evening.

The Balkans

Bosnia and Herzogivina (May 2012)

Part 1 Sarajevo (1): The Old Town, The New Town and That Assassination
Part 2 Sarajevo (2): The Seige
Part 3 Mostar

Croatia (May 2012)

Part 4 Dubrovnik (1): Around the City Walls
Part 5 Korčula
Part 6 Dubrovnik (2): Inside the Walls

North Macedonia (May/June 2015)

Part 7 Flying into FYRoM
Part 8 Skopje
Part 9 The Matka Canyon and Stobi
Part 10 Prilep and Bitola
Part 11 The Mariovo and Lake Prespa
Part 12 Ohrid, the Heart of Slavic Macedonia
Part 13 Ohrid to Albania The East Coast of the Lake
Part 14 Struga and Ohrid Trout
Part 15 Debar and back to Skopje

Ohrid, the Heart of Slavic Macedonia: Part 12 of The Balkans

A Medieval Castle, An Ancient Greek Theatre, Several Churches and an Excellent Lunch of Lake Ohrid Eel and Carp

Ohrid, the Briefest of Intros

North Macedonia

Ohrid

Ohrid began life in the 4th century BC under the name Lychnidos (City of Light) perhaps because of the reflections from its clear, blue lake. When the Romans replaced the Macedonian Greeks, Lychnidos’ position on the Via Egnatia (the route from the Adriatic to Byzantium) ensured its continued prosperity. The Slavs arrived in the seventh century and renamed the city Ohrid (city on a hill) which is accurate, if perhaps lacking poetry.

From the Lakeside to the Upper Gate

After a leisurely breakfast we strolled in warm sunshine along the lakeside promenade to the square at the foot of the hill on which the old city stands.

The lakeside promenade and the old town of Ohrid

We followed the old streets across the face of the hill and then upwards….

Through the streets of the old town, Ohrid

… until we reached the Upper Gate in the curtain wall of Car Samoil's castle which dominates the old town.

The Upper Gate, Ohrid

The Earliest Slavic University

We started our tour by descending a short way along Klimentov Univerzitet.

In 862 the brothers who were to become the Saints Cyril and Methodius were dispatched form Constantinople to evangelise the Slavs in central Europe. They travelled at the request of Prince Rastislav of Moravia who was less concerned about his people being pagan than about the growing power of the Church of Rome.

Catholic liturgy was in Latin, then still the language of the Western European elite, and Cyril and Methodius realised the Slavs needed a liturgy in their own tongue. Unfortunately the Slavs were illiterate and their language unwritten so the brothers developed the script that became known as Glagolitic and used it to write a liturgy in what is now known as Old Church Slavonic (Modern Church Slavonic is used in services in most Eastern orthodox churches today.)

Ohrid and its lake are in the southwest corner of Macedonia

The success of Cyril and his bro was based on the careful training of disciples and two of the foremost were Saint Kliment of Ohrid (we met him outside the new cathedral of St Kliment in Skopje) and St Naum (see next post). These two eventually returned to Ohrid and set up the first university in the Slav world where they developed the script named after St Cyril, now used throughout eastern Europe and central Asia*. The street name commemorates Kliment’s university; Ohrid's 'University of Science and Technology' in the modern town was founded in 2009 and is a rather different institution.

The Church of Sveta Bogoridica and Wonderfully Described Icons

We were in Klimentov Univerzitet looking for the entrance to the 13th century church of Sveta Bogoridica Perivlepta where the bones of St Kliment were once kept. It should have been easy – we could even see the church - but the entrance to the small courtyard was not where the signs pointed. Eventually we found the ticket office, paid our 100 denars (£1.10) and swiftly wished we had not. It was Sunday, a service was in progress and the church was packed - it is small so that required a little more than a dozen people. To enter we would have to walk over the upturned feet of the kneeling worshippers, and you should not trample on people’s soles on a Sunday.

Sveti Bogoridica Perivlepta, Ohrid

We missed the promised ‘vivid biblical frescoes’ but settled for visiting the renowned icon gallery across the courtyard.

A large woman barred our entry demanding another 100 denars. We showed her our tickets, but that was not good enough, the icons required a separate ticket. I sometimes come over all mean when I feel I am not getting value for money, but Lynne was having none of it, forcibly** extracting the notes from my scrooge-like grip. I am glad she did, not so much because of the icons, which were fine enough, but for the language used to describe them. We had seen the huge painting of Christ Pantocrator at St Kliment’s in Skopje, but here we encountered Jesus and Mary variously painted as ‘psychosostria’ (saviour of souls), ‘peribleptos’ (admired) ‘episkepsis’ (questioning) and ‘hodigitria’ (showing the way). Lynne made a note and we looked the words up later. Perhaps I am a little odd, preferring the words to the pictures, but then I have always preferred the words to the music as well.

The Greek Amphitheatre

Returning to the Upper Gate and walking a short distance in the other direction took us to the city's amphitheatre. There are four such theatres in Macedonia and this was our third in three days, but whereas the others are Roman, Ohrid's is Greek in origin. The Greeks used it as a theatre but later the more bloodthirsty Romans held gladiator shows and executions. It was then covered up and forgotten until its accidental rediscovery in the 1980s. Only the lower tiers remain, but it is again being used for performances; during Ohrid's Summer Festival it has hosted the Bolshoi Ballet and José Carreras, among others.

The amphitheatre, Ohrid

Car Samoil's Castle

Returning, again, to the Upper gate we had problems with more dodgy signs before we located the road up to the castle entrance.

Up to Car Samoil's Castle, Ohrid

The First Bulgarian Empire lasted from 681 to 1018 and ruled a considerable area to the north of the Byzantine Empire. The capital moved several times and in 982 it arrived in Ohrid which had long been the cultural and military centre of south west Bulgaria - the distinction between Macedonian and Bulgarian is a recent invention.

Car Samoil (Csar Samuel), the last ruler of the First Bulgarian Empire (there was a Second from the 12th to 14th century), built the hilltop fortress over an earlier fortification possibly constructed by Philip II of Macedonia, the father of Alexander the Great.

Car Samoil's Castle, Ohrid

There is little to see inside the castle ...

Inside Car Samoil's Castle, Ohrid

....the main attraction is to climb the steps onto the walls and see the view over the city of Ohrid.....

Ohrid from Car Samoil's Castle

... and across the lake.

The Northern tip of Lake Ohrid, from Car Samoil's Castle

Much of Car Samoil's reign was taken up by war with Byzantium. The Byzantine Empire won a decisive victory at the Battle of Kleidon in 1014 and captured 15,000 Bulgarian soldiers. The Emperor Boris II (Boris the Bulgar Slayer) blinded his captives leaving 1 man in every 100 with one eye so he could lead the others home. When Samoil saw his returning army he died of a heart attack. He is buried beside Lake Prespa, his grave being on what is now the Greek side of the border. While medieval warfare was undoubtedly barbaric, this is a case where history was, for once, written by the losers not the winners. The mass blinding was probably Bulgarian propaganda and never actually happened.

Church of St Kliment and St Pantelejmon

We drank our morning espresso at a café outside the castle gates and then followed a forested path downhill to the Church of Saints Kliment and Pantelejmon, a shiny new building which sits behind the remains of a 4th century basilica.

Fourth century basilica, Ohrid

When Saint Kliment returned to Ohrid after his travels with Saints Cyril and Methodius he was given a small church on this site. He had it rebuilt as a much larger church and dedicated it to Saint Pantelejmon, personally designing the crypt where he was later interred. Under the Ottoman Empire it became a mosque and then a church again, undergoing many further changes over the centuries, some constructive, some destructive. The current structure was started in 2003 by the archaeologist Pasko Kuzman. It has been hand built as close to the original design as possible using as much of the historical material as was available and has been re-dedicated to both St Kliment and St Pantelejmon.

The Church of St Kliment and St Pantalejmon, Ohrid

Inside are more icons and we were invited to peer into the glass covered crypt to see the relics of St Kliment, which are taken out for an annual parade. It was too dark down there to make out much, and I have never understood the fascination the Catholic and Orthodox churches have with body parts of the saints - or Buddhists with bits of the Buddha. After a millennium of upheavals, changes of regime, mayhem and destruction it is an act of faith to believe these really are bits of St Kliment not randomly collected bones.

Kaneo, Church of St John and an Excellent Lunch

A further descent along a pine fringed path took us down to the lake side at Kaneo, once a fishing hamlet just side Ohrid, now a stony beach with a few pleasure craft and a couple of restaurants on the edge of the city. On a headland above the beach is the 13th century church of St John containing a fresco of Christ Pantocrator that has only recently been rediscovered.

St John's, Kaneo, from above

It is the setting of the church which makes it so beautiful whether viewed from above, or from the beach - or more precisely the decking of the Letna Bavča restaurant, which stretches out over the water.

St John's, Kaneo, from the deck of the restaurant

Seduced by the scenery, the sun on the clear blue waters and the promise of fresh lake carp and eel we found an empty table and relaxed after our morning’s exertions.

We ordered glasses of mastika. It had taken us a few attempts to work out how best to drink this nectar which looks like ouzo but is in some ways closer to pastis. We had expected it to arrive with a carafe of water, but discovered that it is not served with water but with a glass of small ice cubes. You drop as many as you like into your glass and drink it as the ice melts and the mastika goes cloudy - in warm sunshine it works magnificently.

Lynne's carp was a steak across a large fish, the flesh well-flavoured and beautifully cooked. Carp can be muddy, but this was not, the limpid waters of Lake Ohrid do not do mud. My eel was delightful, the flesh sweet and the fat running.

Lynne eats lake carp beside the lake, Kaneo, Ohrid

A bottle of Zupljanka from Tikveš (inevitably) had the acidity to cut the fat and was an excellent accompaniment. I thought it was a new grape to me but have since discovered Zupljanka is the local name for the more familiar Chasselas. It was a long lunch, sitting in the sun, sipping wine and reflecting upon what a lovely place we had stumbled upon.

Church of St Sophia, Ohrid

It was hard to tear ourselves away from the sun drenched decking, but after a good strong coffee we paid the surprisingly modest bill and made our way up hill from the cove, along the hillside and then down to Saint Sophia's, though we suspected we had probably seen enough churches for the day.

Founded in the 9th century most of it dates from the 11th and the frescoes, which were painted over the next two hundred years, are of international importance. The walls of almost every church in Macedonia are covered with medieval frescoes and we were beginning to feel a little frescoed out.

Saint Sophia's, Ohrid

We followed the road as it dropped through the delightful old town and then wandered slowly back along the promenade.

An Evening Beer and a Pop-up Church

We did not feel the need to eat anything else that day, but in the evening we wandered along to the bar-lined street that runs inland along the base of the hill, sat at one of the pavement cafés and enjoyed a leisurely beer (or two). There were plenty of bars to choose from, Ohrid is not only the spiritual heart of Macedonia, its situation beside the country’s biggest lake makes it also the largest holiday resort – a strange mixture of Blackpool and Canterbury.

Pop-up Church, Ohrid

But even here we could not get away from frescoes and icons. Just across from where we were sitting was a pop-up church, the open doors of a market stall revealing an impromptu iconostasis. Throughout the evening, in a street otherwise given over to hedonistic pleasure, a steady stream of people stopped by the icons, crossed themselves and offered a brief prayer, many of them also dropping a few denars in the box and lighting a candle.

*In fairness I should point out that Preslav in modern Bulgaria makes the same claims.
**I would like to make it clear the ‘force’ applied was purely verbal. There was no unseemly scuffle in the precinct of Sveti Bogoridica Perivlepta.

The Balkans

Bosnia and Herzogivina (May 2012)

Part 1 Sarajevo (1): The Old Town, The New Town and That Assassination
Part 2 Sarajevo (2): The Seige
Part 3 Mostar

Croatia (May 2012)

Part 4 Dubrovnik (1): Around the City Walls
Part 5 Korčula
Part 6 Dubrovnik (2): Inside the Walls

North Macedonia (May/June 2015)

Part 7 Flying into FYRoM
Part 8 Skopje
Part 9 The Matka Canyon and Stobi
Part 10 Prilep and Bitola
Part 11 The Mariovo and Lake Prespa
Part 12 Ohrid, the Heart of Slavic Macedonia
Part 13 Ohrid to Albania The East Coast of the Lake
Part 14 Struga and Ohrid Trout
Part 15 Debar and back to Skopje

The Mariovo and Lake Prespa: Part 11 of The Balkans

The Badlands of the Border, The Salonika Front and a Serene Blue Tectonic Lake

Into the Mariovo

North Macedonia

Our destination for the day was the city of Ohrid, but as it was only 70km from Bitola we first took a short trip in the opposite direction into the Mariovo district, described by Lonely Planet as the badlands of the border country where the sound of exploding World War One armament caches can still be heard during summer wildfires.

Macedonia had the misfortune of being the main battlefield in the First Balkan War (Oct 1912 - May 1913) in which the Balkan League ganged up on Turkey to drive the Ottoman empire almost entirely out of Europe and in the Second Balkan War (June to August 1913) in which Bulgaria, unhappy about how little of Macedonia it had been given at the end of the first war, fought its erstwhile allies. The Bulgarians were defeated but the war allowed the Turks to regain part of the territory previously lost. Then came the First World War; Bulgaria joined up with Germany and the Austro-Hungarian Empire against the Kingdom of a Serbia and pushed south through Macedonia, then part of Serbia. They were stopped in the Mariovo region by a combined allied force and by 1916 there was a static front where half a million Bulgarians faced an army of 700,000 French, British, Serbians, Italians, Russians and Greeks.

Todays journey in purple

Finding our way out of Bitola and down the road towards the Mariovo was not easy; not only was it was unsigned, but the police were diverting traffic away from what we thought was our turning around a busy street market.

French Military Cemetery, Bitola

We worked round them and on the outskirts of Bitola came across a huge French military cemetery.

French Military Cemetery, Bitola

On the outskirts of Bitola we came across a huge French military cemetery. The French bore the brunt of the fighting on the Macedonian Front (also known as the Salonika front) and although it was described as 'stable' from 1916 until the collapse of the Central Powers in 1918 that does not mean it was a safe or comfortable place to be. There are the graves of 6,128 known dead and an ossuary containing the remains of 7,000 more who could not be identified. The killing machine that was the First World War stretched into places I had never thought about. The British dead, I later discovered, were mainly buried in cemeteries on the Greek side of the border, which at this point is less than ten miles away.

Ossuary, French Military Cemetery, Bitola

Makovo and Rapeš

After crossing the Pellagonian plain the road started to rise into the Mariovo. This region of rolling uplands was once wealthy, its prosperity based on sheep, but two world wars and the collectivisation policies of the Tito government did not help the Mariovo. There are still sheep - we saw several flocks each marshalled by their own shepherd - but there are far fewer than there used to be, much of the land is deserted and the villages filled with empty and crumbling houses.

The Mariovo countryside

The village of Makovo had 71 inhabitants in the 2002 census and probably fewer now, though there are houses for several hundred. Rapeš, a further five kilometres through largely deserted upland sheep pastures, is smaller, but here we saw houses being repaired, vegetable plots being weeded and a man in a blue boiler suit tending as many beehives as I have ever seen in one place. Despite the activity there were more empty houses than occupied ones. We went on a few kilometres, the road becoming narrower and rougher. Gradešnica, 18 km beyond Rapeš, was the next and final village. It is, I read, now the biggest settlement in the Mariovo with 80 inhabitants. We did not get there - the countryside is beautiful, but we felt we had the idea and did not need to drive to the bitter end of the road. Like the Cotswolds this area became rich on sheep, but being the battleground of two world wars and then part of a failed experiment in agricultural economics led to poverty and depopulation. The countryside is more rugged than the Cotswolds, but if fate had been different the Mariovo could have been speckled with cute villages and the weekend homes of the rich and famous.

Rapeš and some of its beehives, Mariovo

We made our way back towards Bitola, pausing briefly above the edge of the plain. The city was hidden from view (unfortunately the same could not be said of the local power station) but the mountains beyond still had streaks of snow in sheltered gullies.

Looking across the Pellagonian Plain to the mountains beyond

Lake Prespa

From Bitola we continued westward through the mountains on the M5 (a road that will take you to the Cotswolds in the UK) towards Resen. Five kilometres before the town we left the main road, turning south towards Lake Prespa, 180km² of serene blue water largely in Macedonia but with smaller parts belonging to Greece and Albania,

Blue, serene Lake Prespa

Kurbinovo, a Tortoise and Some Frescoes

We were heading for the not quite lakeside village of Kurbinovo and the church of Sveti Gorgi in the hills behind but paused for a picnic lunch by the turning onto the lane to Kurbinovo. For the first time on this trip, the sun was shining strongly and the afternoon was heating up.

The turning to Kurbinovo and Sveti Gorgi - for once well signed

Lake Prespa is a tectonic lake – at 850m the highest in the Balkans – and like all tectonic lakes (the biggest and best known being Lake Baikal in Russia and Lake Tanganyika) it is very old and very deep. At its nearest the much bigger Lake Ohrid, also a tectonic lake, is only 10km away and is 150m lower. Seismic activity has opened fissures in the karst geology that are quietly emptying Lake Prespa into Lake Ohrid - a cause of some concern to the locals. The village of Asamati on the lake shore a kilometre away in the opposite direction from Kurbinovo used to have a popular swimming beach but the receding lake has left it with a patch of mud it can do without.

Unlike the villages of the Mariovo, Kurbinovo was alive and growing with several new, well-built houses and more were under construction, though around the edges of the village the older houses look to be falling down and abandoned. Beyond, the road up to Sveti Gorgi was narrow but was mostly in good repair. We had to stop for Lynne to remove a tortoise which had spent the last five minutes sprinting across the road but had spotted the car at the last moment and withdrawn into its shell right where I wanted to drive.

Tortoise road block near Kurbinovo

According to the Lonely Planet, the church would probably be locked and the key holder would be unfindable, so we were not that disappointed at being unable to get in, but the building would have looked better without the scaffolding.

Lynne, Sveti Gorgi and some scaffolding

The frescoes are the church’s main attraction, but there are some outside, and an example of those inside can be seen on the 50 Denar bank note.

External frescoes, Sveti Gorgi, Kurbanovo

Leaving Kurbanovo we drove north to Resen, the region's main town. Resen grew up on the Roman Via Ignatia and not a lot has happened since. We stopped for petrol, the first time on this journey. The nationally fixed price is less than 90 pence a litre making it a relatively painless experience.

50 (60p) Denar note with frescoes from Sveti Gorgi

Ohrid

Ohrid

Ohrid is 25 km from Resen as the crow flies, but there is range of mountains in between and the road takes 40km to get there.

The old town of Ohrid sits on a hill beside the lake of the same name. The modern town straggles along the shore and spreads back round the hill. It is both the spiritual centre of Slavic Macedonia and the foremost holiday resort in this landlocked country.

Me, Lake Ohrid and the old town

We checked into our hotel beside the lake, where we encountered a reminder that this is an earthquake area – and that English is not widely understood.

I hope there won't be an earthquakeake

In the evening we walked a short distance to a restaurant reputed to serve the best scara in Ohrid. Scara, meat beaten flat and grilled is the most typical of Macedonian dishes and Lynne had a butterflied and grilled chicken breast while I, perversely, chose veal tagliatelle. We enjoyed a glass of mastika before our food, which was pleasingly accompanied by a bottle of Tickveš rosé. We finished with pancakes, honey and hazelnuts.

Well fed, we retired to our room and next day set off to explore Ohrid on foot.

The Balkans

Bosnia and Herzogivina (May 2012)

Part 1 Sarajevo (1): The Old Town, The New Town and That Assassination
Part 2 Sarajevo (2): The Seige
Part 3 Mostar

Croatia (May 2012)

Part 4 Dubrovnik (1): Around the City Walls
Part 5 Korčula
Part 6 Dubrovnik (2): Inside the Walls

North Macedonia (May/June 2015)

Part 7 Flying into FYRoM
Part 8 Skopje
Part 9 The Matka Canyon and Stobi
Part 10 Prilep and Bitola
Part 11 The Mariovo and Lake Prespa
Part 12 Ohrid, the Heart of Slavic Macedonia
Part 13 Ohrid to Albania The East Coast of the Lake
Part 14 Struga and Ohrid Trout
Part 15 Debar and back to Skopje