Friday, 2 July 2021

The Long Mynd - A DIY Macmillan Mighty Hike

Making Some Effort in a Good Cause

Preparations for a Peak District Mighty Hike that Never Was

In late January or early February Mike suggested that he, Francis and I should form a team to take part in the Peak District Macmillan Mighty Hike - a 13-mile sponsored walk (there was a 26-mile variant for masochists) in aid of Macmillan Cancer Support in the Peak District National Park on the 24th of July.

Feeling we might have a fitness problem Team MDF, as we dubbed ourselves, embarked on a series of training walks on Cannock Chase and around Haughton and Swynnerton. Most were on dry days, some even in sunshine. It was not always warm sunshine, though our late April outing in Haughton shortly after pubs had re-opened for outdoor drinking….

The end of a long drought - a glass of lunch outside the Red Lion in Bradley

… was as warm as walkers could want or tolerate.

Spring has definitely reached Staffordshire, Haughton in April

Donations started to roll in, but in early June the Peak District Park Authorities cancelled mass participation events as ‘the elongated and ongoing restrictions over foreign travel, [have caused] an unprecedented number of visitors, putting the land we cover under strain.


Shropshire
Macmillan gave us a list of alternatives and we decided on a Macmillan sanctioned DIY Mighty Hike. Emails went back and forth and the venue, the Long Mynd in Shropshire, and date, the 2nd of July, seemed to emerge organically. Francis was charged with plotting a route, Mike offered to provide breakfast and I volunteered to drive us there.

Onto the Long Mynd

The Avengers Assemble

So bright and early (before 9.30, anyway) we were in the Carding Mill Valley car park ready to haul on our boots - once we had eaten breakfast.

Mike, Francis and Alison. In this picture I am represented by my boots

I have so far failed to mention two important people. This was now a DIY walk so we were no longer limited to the original three. We had collected Alison C in All Stretton where she and non-walking partner Morgan were staying in an air-bnb. Anne arrived a few minutes after the photo above accompanied by a large punnet of ‘surplus’ strawberries.

So, full of oatcakes, bacon and strawberries, and after a Team MDC photo in Macmillan shirts…

Team MDF. Photo Alison using Francis' camera

…our enhanced and improved team of 5 set off towards the long, steep path onto the Long Mynd. Francis and Anne led the way – I was in front of them to take the photo but never found myself in that position again.

Anne and Francis lead the climb

The Long Mynd – A Little Scene Setting

Part of the Shropshire Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the Long Mynd is an upland plateau around 500m in elevation some 11km long and 5km wide. It sits on what Geologists call the ‘Longmyndian Supergroup’ – two guitars, bass, drums and a 6,000m thick slab of late Precambrian rock. Whether the Long Mynd is truly long depends on what you chose to compare it with, the ‘Mynd’ is derived from a Brythonic word for mountain (c.f. Welsh ‘mynydd’).

We walked from the Carding Mill Valley, across the Long Mynd, then back to All Stretton

We started on the eastern edge where the Carding Mill Valley is one of a number of steep, narrow valleys incised into the escarpment. Once you are on the plateau the land descends rather more gently in the general direction of Wales. You know what to expect from a walk on the Long Mynd, though the extended vertical axis on the profile produced by Anne’s app (right) does make it look more alarming than it actually is.

The Ascent

I do not mind a stiff climb at the start of the day, but I am never going to be the first to the top. Engage bottom gear and plod works for me and I am grateful for the patience of faster walkers. On this occasion, extra patience was required. While trying to cope with walking poles and camera I contrived to engage a hitherto unknown setting where the camera insisted on taking one-second videos rather than photographs. I spent some time trying to remove this unwanted function instead of walking. Mike kindly waited while I faffed around.

Mike waits patiently - a still from a one-second video

When I finally got on with it, I realised that the weather forecast had been unduly pessimistic; it was going to be a very fine day, but at least this climb would be over before it became too warm.

Near the top we encountered two groups from a school in Ludlow on their Duke of Edinburgh Bronze Award expeditions. They were full of energy but unsure about their navigation as such groups so often are. I must have passed through an age when I had both energy and navigation skills, but it was fleeting, at best.

On the Top

The top is a plateau, but not a flateau. The path called Mott’s Road on the map continues to rise, albeit more gently, for a distance yet.

Energetic youth on Mott's Road

At the end we turned left onto a track heading for Pole Bank, at 516m the Long Mynd’s highest point. We passed a watering hole favoured by the resident ponies owned by the Long Mynd Commoners…

Wild ponies, Long Mynd

…and enjoyed the view westwards across the plateau. Pollen evidence suggests that trees here began to be replaced by grassland in the Bronze Age though the earliest written evidence of the management of common grazing is from the 13th Century.

Looking west on the Long Mynd

We reached the shooting butts where the path meets The Burway, one of two ancient tracks across the Long Mynd, now tarmac-ed but narrow. The leaders of the D of E Award groups were parked there checking off their charges as they came through.

Crossing the Burway, we turned half right onto a section of the Cross Britain Way, a description if the route, not the state of the nation. Not particularly well known (not yet, anyway), the walk was created (appropriately under the circumstances) to raise money for Macmillan Cancer Support. Stretching 550km from Boston on the North Sea to Barmouth on the Welsh coast it includes a remarkable variety of countryside.

Once out of sight of the car park we paused for coffee.

Coffee break - in this picture I am represented by my glasses case

A Gentle Descent to Bridges

Refreshed we continued along the Cross Britain Way as it began to slowly descend…

The Cross Britain Way starts to descend

…giving views into the gentler valleys on the western side.

Valley on the western side of the Long Mynd

The descent took a while to become persistent, …

On the Cross Britain Way

… but as we dropped off the plateau, we began to encounter more trees and sheep.

Leaving the Long Mynd plateau

And, at the hamlet of Coates, a minor road. Here we re-encountered a D of E Award group still mithering about navigation and seeking advice from a local.

The last kilometre of the descent to Bridges and its eponymous pub was on tarmac, along a shady, and occasionally quite steep lane.

A shady lane down to Bridges

The Bridges, Bridges

The Bridges has recently re-opened under new management. There are plans afoot but for the moment they have a limited menu at highish prices. They are already growing their own salad vegetables and Alison, Anne and I ate fresh crisp leaves, baby broad beans and courgettes, crumbed (real) Lancashire cheese with a well-made vinaigrette. It stood out among pub salads. Francis having harumphed at the prices on line, brought a packed lunch but was too polite to eat it sitting in the pub garden, a pleasant shady spot beside a stream.

Alison, me and Anne waiting for lunch in the Bridges Garden
Photo by Francis, so for once I am representing myself

Beside the Darnford Brook and up the Betchcott Hills

Bridges lives up to its name sitting on the confluence of the Darnford Brook and an apparently unnamed stream which join to form the River East Onny. It is all very small scale, and at the first of a cluster of minor road junctions we left the Cross Britain Way and joined the Shropshire Way.

Onto the Shropshire Way

The route soon leaves the tarmac to follow the line of the Darnford Brook…

Shropshire Way above the Darnford Brook

…a minor stream crossed by a few bridges of unknown antiquity.

The Darnford Brook and old bridge: photo Alison

The path varies in size, but sticks to the brook, passing the hamlet of Ratlinghope – which the Shropshire Star assures me is pronounced ‘Rachup.’ – on the far side of the stream.

Continuing beside the Darnford Brook

A kilometre or so later the path continued to follow the line of the stream while rising gently along the flank of Ratlinghope Hill. At first we had ignored the rising path but realised our error when the streamside path petered out. Others had clearly made the same mistake as many boots had climbed the bank to the correct path. As he ascended, I noticed that Francis was not looking his usual sure-footed self.

The gently rising path up Ratlinghope Hill

We continued to climb gently but steadily with Francis, normally in the lead, taking up the unaccustomed position of back-marker. When he started to tail off, we called a halt. Francis had missed his lunch and was running on empty, so we sat beside the path in pleasant sunshine while he filled himself with water and sandwiches.

Francis works on his recovery plan. In this photo I am represented by my pack and poles

With Francis sufficiently revived, we continued the climb to the end of Ratlinghope Hill.

Approaching the end of Ratlinghope Hill

And found our way into a fold known as Golden Valley. Climbing the valley brought us to the Portway – the other ancient track across the Long Mynd, and the main ridge of the Betchcott Hills. It had been a long, gentle and almost effortless climb from Bridges at 240m up to 400m.

Looking down Golden Valley from the top

Golden Valley is obviously green, not gold, but on a warm sunny day it is easy to forget why it is so green. Alison’s picture of a lychen encrusted finger post reminded us we were lucky to have picked such a fine, dry day.

Lichen encrusted Finger post pointing up Golden Valley. Photo; Alison

Over Betchcott Hill and Other Nameless but Higher Summits

We took a brief break before passing through the gate onto the Portway and turning right toward the summit of Betchcott Hill only 14m above us and 450m distant.

A brief rest before going through the gate onto the Portway

Maybe I was a little naïve, but I believed that as the only named hill, and with a trig point to boot, this would be the highest point of the afternoon. Foolish fellow, had I been carrying a map I could have seen that following the Portway we would descend and then climb to 440m+ twice in the next two kilometres to reach a high point near a small wood called High Park.

Up and down on the Portway

I found the up and down on a wide straight path a little dull and hence arduous, though it was redeemed by views to the north across flat agricultural land to where The Wrekin lurked in the mist.

Looking across the plain to The Wrekin

Descent to All Stretton, Tea and Cakes

We started to descend….

Starting the descent

….soon reaching a broad green sward; a delight to walk over. In front of us was a sharp drop into the Stretton Valley and beyond that Caer Caradoc (one of several alleged locations of Caradoc’s last stand against the invading Romans) and to the left the lower ridge of The Lawley.

Across a sward towards Caer Caradoc

At one point Alison and Francis seemed to be engaged on a socially distanced march towards a precipice.

A socially distanced march towards a precipice? Photo Anne

There was, of course, no precipice - a minor road makes a relatively gentle descent into All Stretton - but Alison had suggested that for us there was a better route down a narrow valley to our right which would deliver us to exactly the right spot in All Stretton.

Turning right we crossed the sward and reached what was little more than a crack in the grassland. I looked into it. ‘That’s a vertical rockface,’ I said to myself ‘We can’t go down there.’

Francis, now fully recovered, stepped forward and started the descent like he was going down his stairs at home. Apparently, it was not vertical! We all had to follow, some with alacrity, others (me and I think Anne who had been notably unfazed by anything else the day had thrown at her) with more trepidation. Walking poles are, of course, sports equipment and thus entirely different from a walking stick. I find them invaluable in hilly terrain, providing extra power uphill, and downhill braking (my knees announced their retirement from that job two decades ago). Here, though, I used them primarily to maintain my balance - just like two old man’s walking sticks.

For reasons of self-preservation, I took no photos until past the difficult bit and the path, though still rough and narrow, was no longer precipitous.

After the difficult part of the descent

Once we had reached the bottom it was a simple stroll into All Stretton arriving almost immediately at Alison’s B&B where partner Morgan had laid on cakes, strawberries and tea, God bless her.

An easy walk into All Stretton to finish

She also took the team photo, Mike, Francis and me in our Macmillan shirts, Alison in her Kilimanjaro shirt (a slightly larger hill she climbed a few years back) and Anne in a University of Sheffield Swimming Club shirt. While we had been walking her son, Ed, had been participating in a cross-channel relay swim as a member of that club. They started early and finished as we did – congratulations to Ed and the rest of the team.

Team Photo

The training walks had paid off and it had been a wonderful day: good company, fine weather, the beauty of the Long Mynd and over £800 raised for Macmillan Cancer Relief. A big thank you to all those who made donations.

Sunday, 20 June 2021

Theravada (3) Laos, Cambodia & Thailand: Buddhist Temples, Monasteries and Buddha Images Part 6

A Collection of Temples and Statues: the Classical, the Folksy and the Quirky

Theravada Buddhism

Dharmachakra

Theravada (lit. "School of the Elders") is the oldest existing branch of Buddhism. Theravadins have preserved their version of the Buddha’s teaching in the ‘Pali Canon’ for over two millennia.

The classical Indian language of Pali is Theravada's sacred language and the canon was probably written down in the 1st century BCE in Sri Lanka from where it spread throughout South East Asia.

Monasticism is an important component of Theravada, most boys spend some time in a monastery – usually during the school holidays – learning about the monastic life, though no commitment is made before adulthood.

This post covers Laos, Cambodia and Thailand. Sri Lanka and Myanmar were featured in Theravada (1) and (2).

Laos

Laos
Laos within the former Indo-China

Buddhism seeped into the area from the 7th century onwards, firmly establishing itself in the 11th and 12th centuries as the Lao and Thai people migrated south from southern China. With Laos often split into three kingdoms or partly ruled by invaders, Theravada Buddhism became an important unifying features of Lao culture. Indigenous non-Lao ethnic minorities (some large, some only a few hundred strong) make up 30% of the population and generally follow folk religions.

The North

Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang was the capital of its own kingdom from medieval times, and the royal capital of the Kingdom of Laos after independence from France in in 1953. After a long civil war the kingdom became the Peoples’ Democratic Republic of Laos in 1975.

At 6 o’clock every morning the monks of Luang Prabang process through the streets soliciting alms for their daily food.

Begging Monks, Luang Prabang

It is, of course, a tourist attraction, and the modern world has provided more efficient ways of supporting religious institutions, but the procession remains symbolically important, both to the monks and the kneeling citizens who place donations of sticky rice into the monk’s begging bowls.

Wat Xieng Thong

Wat Xieng Thong’s Sim was built in 1560 and is the original; unlike the city’s other older temples it has never been razed by Chinese marauders nor over-enthusiastically restored. Considered a masterpiece of Lao architecture, the eves sweep almost to the ground, like a mother hen protecting her chickens. Though of great importance, the sim is modest in size; understatement is the Lao way.

The Sim, Wat Xieng Thong, Luang Prabang

Inside is the usual collection of Buddha images....

Inside the Sim, Wat Xieng Thong, Luang Prabang

… but not the most important statue. The Sitting Buddha, locked in a pavilion behind the Sim, prefers to remain in darkness and is taken out only to be washed. There is, however, a keyhole through which the Buddha can be viewed, and even photographed.

The Sitting Buddha through the keyhole, Wat Xieng Thong, Luang Prabang

The Pra Bang Buddha

But even the sitting Buddha is not the most important statue in Luang Prabang. The Pra Bang Buddha, the Palladium of Laos (the image on which the nation’s safety depends) is housed in his own pavilion outside the former royal palace. We were allowed to approach the Buddha, shoeless, hatless and camera-less, so I have no a picture but can a report that it is a standing Buddha almost a metre high with his arms stretched forward. palms outward.

The hall of the Pra Bang Buddha, Luang Prabang

See Luang Prabang (1) The Old Town (Feb 2014)

Muang Khoun

Once the royal capital of Xieng Khaung, Muang Khoun is now little more than a village 30 km south of Phonsavan, the modern provincial capital (see map above).

As the stronghold of the communist Pathet Lao (now the government) and straddling the Ho Chi Minh trail Xieng Khoun was heavily bombed; eastern Laos receiving the equivalent of one planeload of American bombs every eight minutes for eight years (1964-73). Unexploded ordinance still blights the lives of local farmers.

Wat Phi Wat

After bombs destroyed Wat Phi Wat the main Buddha image was painstakingly reassembled, though his face now has an appropriately pained expression.

The Wat Phi Wat Buddha statue, Muang Khoun

 see Phonsavan, the Plain of Jars and Unexploded Ordinance (Feb 2014)

Vientiane

Vientiane, a small, low rise, low stress city has been the capital, off and on, of all or part of Laos since 1573. The Kingdom of Vientiane became a vassal of Siam in 1779 and after a rebellion in 1827 the city was looted and razed. It was rebuilt by the French in 1899.

That Luang

The gold painted stupa of That Luang marks the centre of the city and the focal point of Lao culture. It was built in 1930, based on French explorers’ sketches of the great stupa that stood here before 1827.

That Luang, Vientiane

Wat Pha Keo

Vientiane has many temples, as befits a major city, but Wat Pha Keo, the king’s personal temple rebuilt by the French, is now a museum whose major exhibit is elsewhere.

Wat Pha Keo, Vientiane

It once housed the Pha Keo, the ‘Emerald Buddha,’ but that it was carried off to Thailand in 1799 and now resides in Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok. It is the Palladium of Thailand, touched only by the king when he changes its robes, so there is little chance of it returning any time soon. (for more, see below and the 2015 post The Story of the Emerald Buddha.).

Wat On Teu

I should include one working temple from the capital, so I have chosen Wat On Tue, the Temple of the Heavy Buddha. Rebuilt several times since its original construction in 1560 by King Setthathirath, it is a complex of small buildings…

Wat On Teu Temple complex, Vientiane

….with a larger sim containing the eponymous image. In 1560 the nobles were summoned here to swear allegiance to King Setthathirath in front Vientiane’s largest Buddha. Two centuries later they were summoned to swear allegiance to Siam and 150 years after that they gathered here to swear allegiance to the French.

Young monk and the heavy Buddha, Wat On Teu, Vientiane

See Vientiane (1) Wats, Stupas and a Heavy Buddha (Feb 2014)

The South

Wat Phabat Phonsan

An hour from Vientiane, Wat Phabat Phonsan in the village of Dan Sa Mouc was constructed on an ancient religious site.

Wat Phabat Phonsan

Although the Buddha never visited Laos, devout Buddhists have managed to find his footprints all over the country and the Sim stands over such a footprint.

The Sim, Wat Phabat Phonsan

Physically, the Buddha was a normal man, but his footprint was, apparently, the size of bathtub. Local guide Phim said that in his grandparent’s youth there really was a ‘footprint’ of sorts, maybe a fossilised dinosaur footprint. The Lonely Planet suggests it was a depression formed by millennia of Mekong flood water.

Buddha's footprint, Wat Phabat Phonsan

Whatever the ‘footprint’ really was, the temple is redeemed by the paintings of the life of the Buddha covering the walls.

Painted interior, Wat Phabat Phonsan

Near Paksan

North of Paksan, our eye was caught by a small country temple with an outsize Naga Buddha. This popular image commemorates a time when the Buddha was meditating beneath a tree. A storm blew up and Mucalinda, the seven-headed King of the Serpents came up from the roots of the tree to shield him from the rain.

Small temple, large statue beside Route 13

See Heading South from Vientiane (Nov 2015)

Champasak

With some 100,000 inhabitants, Pakse (see map) is Laos’ third biggest city. Once capital of the Kingdom of Champasak it is now the capital of Champasak Province. Bordered by Cambodia and Thailand, the area saw many battles in medieval times and four of Champasak’s ten districts lie on the western (otherwise Thai) side of the Mekong.

One of those districts, tucked into Laos’ south-western corner includes the old town of Champasak which gave the kingdom its name, though it is now little more than a village with a line of guest houses beside the Mekong. This a rural area, every village and hamlet has its temple…

Village Temple, Champasak

The main local attraction is the UNESCO world Heritage site of Wat Phou, a 5th century Khmer Hindu temple that converted to Buddhism with the rest of the Khmer Empire in the 11th century. A single shrine remains in use but the site is largely a ruin, and though well worth a visit (or a look here!) it is not included in this post.

Cambodia

Cambodia

I have rather dwelt on Laos; Cambodia will be briefer. Buddhism, Cambodia’s official religion, is followed by 97% of the population (Pew Research Center) but temples, other than the ruins at Angkor, hardly feature on the tourist agenda.

Phnom Penh

The Cambodian capital is the other regular tourist stop – largely for the Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng Prison.

Wat Preah Keo

The Royal Palace complex provides some light relief and includes Wat Preah Keo, the Silver Pagoda. I failed to bag a decent picture, so borrowed one from Wikipedia for the Emerald Buddha post. I should attribute it more precisely but cannot as it no longer graces the page linked to.

Wat Preah Keo, The Silver Pagoda, Phnom Penh, borrowed from Wikipedia

Inside, the no-photographing policy was vigorously enforced - so another borrowed picture.

The golden Buddha, Silver Pavilion, Phnom Penh, (picture from Wikipedia)

Built in 1962, the name alludes to the 5,329 silver tiles covering the floor. Now there is a polishing job! The main treasure is a golden Buddha crafted in the royal workshops in 1906/7. Its 90Kg of gold are encrusted with 9,584 diamonds (according to Wikipedia, the Rough Guide says 2,086). There is also a crystal version of the Emerald Buddha. Cambodia has a tenuous claim to the real one, but accepts that Bangkok has it for the foreseeable future.

See Phnom Penh (1) Palaces and Museums (Feb 2014)

Phnom Penh apart, we visited the magnificent temples of the Angkor period – Angkor Wat is just the centrepiece of an extensive complex of temples – and the pre-Angkorian temples at Sambor Prei Kuk. Interesting as they were, they are all ruins and have little or no use by today’s Buddhists, so they are not really part of this post.

Thailand

Thailand

Buddhism is thought to have arrived in Thailand around 250 BCE. The Indian Emperor Ashoka the Great (ruled 268-232) sent out monks to spread Buddhism and they may well have reached Thailand.

From the start of the (still-reigning) Chakri dynasty in 1782 the king has been the Supreme Patriarch of Thai Buddhism and the religion and monarchy are deeply entangled in what it is to be Thai.

Ban Na Ton Chan, Sukhothai, Ayuthaya and Bangkok are underlined. Phitsanulok is under the 'u' of Sukhothai and Wat Pha Sorn Kaew is under the 'h'.

Siam/Thailand was never part of France’s Indo-Chinese possessions, or part of any other European empire, but the Thai people, their culture and language are closely related to the Lao and there is a similarity in their temples.

Ban Na Ton Chan – A Village Temple

Ban Na Ton Chan is a craft village in northern Thailand. We visited on the day of celebration of the end of the rainy season and everybody was out partying in the grounds of the village temple.

The Village temple, Ban Na Ton Chan

The people were extraordinarily welcoming and plied us with food…

Mushrooms and Pork in a Christmas pot, Ban Na Ton Chan

…and I found some new drinking buddies round the back of the temple.

My new drinking buddies, Ban Na Ton Chan

Phitsanulok

Once an Ankgorian provincial centre, Phitsanulok became an important city in the first Thai kingdom which established itself at Sukhothai in 1238.

Wat Phra Sri Rattana

The temple dates from 1357 the time when Phitsanulok was briefly the capital of the Kingdom of Sukhothai.

Wat Phra Sri Rattana, Phitsanulok

Its most prized possession is the Phra Phuttha Chinnarat Buddha image. According to our guide, Ake, it is solid gold (this was a gold mining area) and is 'the most beautiful Buddha in Thailand and in the whole world.' Wikipedia describes it as gold-covered, which seems more likely.

Phra Phuttha Chinnarat Buddha, Phitsanulok

Sculpted sometime between the 10th and 15th centuries, it is, after the Emerald Buddha, the country’s most revered image. Women wearing skimpy tops and short skirts may not enter its presence – though men wearing shorts are no problem. We were also instructed not to photograph the image from a standing position, but as long as we were kneeling or sitting reverently - i.e. with our feet pointing away from the image - we could snap away to our heart's content.

Phetchabun Province

To the east of Phitsanulok is the more rural and hilly Phetchabun Province.

Wat Pha Sorn Kaew - The Temple on a Glass Cliff

Very new – indeed still under construction when we visited in November 2015 – this huge temple and monastery complex set on an 800m peak on the hills of Phetchabun seems a strange mixture of bad taste and brilliance.

Thai decoration is often fussy, but here it becomes fantastical,…

Wat Pha Sorn Kaew

…the monastery is a cross between the palace of mad King Ludwig at Neuschwanstein and Sleeping Beauty’s Castle…

Monastery, Wat Pha Sorn Kaew

…but the Life of Buddha – five statues in one over a gleaming white temple is impressive, and not just for its size.

The life of the Buddha in one statue, Wat Pha Sorn Kaew

Ayutthaya

Sukhothai was in decline by the 14th century and Ayutthaya, founded in 1351, became the next Thai capital.

A city of rivers and canals with many inhabitants living on boats, Ayutthaya’s population topped a million by 1700. Its wealth attracted traders from China, Persia and the European powers, each having their own ghetto and dock exporting rice, spices, timber and hides. This golden age ended abruptly in 1767 when, after centuries of incursion and counter-incursions, the Burmese finally sacked Ayutthaya, leaving it a ruin.

Bang Pa-In

The city has never recovered its pre-eminence, but it is left with many temples, most of the best in ruins and inappropriate for this post. Nearby Bang Pa-In is a royal retreat that was temporarily abandoned with the fall of Ayutthaya.

In 1782 a new Thai Kingdom emerged with its capital at Bangkok. Phra Phutthayotfa Chulalok founded the Chakri dynasty and styled himself Rama I (the current monarch is Rama X).

Bang Pa-In regained its status as royal retreat in the mid-19th century when steam-powered boats put it within easy reach of Bangkok. It was favoured by King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) who was responsible for most of the building. Kong Mongkut hired the recently widowed Anna Leonowens to be governess for his many children, an event mythologised and romanticised in the King and I. King Chulalongkorn was her protégé and thus an admirer of most things western.

He particularly liked western religious architecture…

Buddhist Temple (yes, really) Pa-In

….but his enthusiasm did not extend to western religion itself. The ‘church’ in the photo above is actually a Buddhist temple. Inside there is even a triptych altar-piece, though there is no altar and the triptych’s iconography is purely Buddhist.

Inside the Buddhist Temple, Pa-In

Bangkok

For the biggest and the best of Thai temples, the capital is the obvious place to go.

Wat Pho

Wat Pho, in the heart of the old royal centre, was constructed in the 1790s on the site of an earlier temple. Within the walls are a monastery, one of the oldest schools of Thai massage, and a huge temple.

There is a central shrine...

Central Shrine, Wat Pho, Bangkok

...and four other main halls….

Wat Pho, Bangkok

…numerous courtyards…

Courtyard full of Buddhas, Wat Pho, Bangkok

….more Buddha images than you can count….

Assorted Buddhas, Wat Pho, Bangkok

….and 92 stupas. The small ones containing the ashes of members of the royal family…

Small Stupas, Wat Pho, Bangkok

… while the large ones hold ashes of the Buddha himself (allegedly).

Large Stupa, Wat Pho, Bangkok

Wat Pho’s main attraction is its Reclining Buddha. At 46m long and 15m high it is not the largest we have seen, (that is the Chaukhtatgyi Buddha in Yangon) but it is undoubtedly the most beautiful…

Reclining Buddha, Wat Pho, Bangkok

….with the most serene face.

Head of the Reclining Buddha, Wat Pho, Bangkok

And on the feet, as always, the 108 attributes of the Buddha.

The 108 attributes on the sole of Buddha's foot, Reclining Buddha, Wat Pho, Bangkok

Wat Phra Kaew

Next to Wat Pho is the Grand Palace, no longer the residence of the royal family, but used for ceremonial purposes. King Rama I started building Wat Phra Kaew next to the palace in 1782 and in 1784 installed the Emerald Buddha which he had carried off after sacking Vientiane in 1779.

Wat Phra Kaew, Bangkok

Only 50 cm tall and carved from jade (‘emerald’ refers to its colour) The Emerald Buddha is the palladium of Thailand and probably the most important Buddha image in south east Asia. It is touched only by the King when he changes its robes three times a year. With a long and complicated history, the earlier parts shrouded in myth, the statue has its own post: The Story of the Emerald Buddha. Wat Preah Keo in Phnom Penh has a space should it ever return to Cambodia and it is the most important, though absent, exhibit in the temple/museum of Wat Pha Keo in Vientiane. There is, though, little chance of it leaving Bangkok in the foreseeable future.

The Emerald Buddha, Wat Phra Kaew. Bangkok

Buddhist Temples, Monasteries and Buddha Images

Part 1: Introduction
Part 2: Mahayana Buddhism
Part 3: Tibetan Buddhism
Part 4: Theravada (1) Sri Lanka
Part 5: Theravada (2) Myanmar
Part 6: Theravada (3) Laos, Cambodia & Thailand