Showing posts with label UK-England-Staffordshire. Show all posts
Showing posts with label UK-England-Staffordshire. Show all posts

Thursday 1 April 2021

Staffordshire Way: Day 4 Uttoxeter to Shugborough

Like the Barcelona posts, this is and its companions are a Covid lockdown project. The walk actually took place in 2005/6.

For an introduction to the Staffordshire Way, see Day 1.

Day 4 Saturday 25/02/2006

Across Farmland and Parkland to a Stately Home on the Edge of Cannock Chase

Participants: Francis, Mike, Alison C & Myself

Staffordshire

On a very flat fourth day we all but reached the end of the shorter Section 2: The Eastern Valleys and Cannock Chase. We started in Uttoxeter on as good a February day as could be reasonably expected and walked south over flat farmland to the Bagot Estate. Beyond the Estate more field paths took us to a lunch stop in Abbots Bromley. Continuing south past the dam of Blithfield Reservoir, through Stockwell Heath and Colton we reached the Trent and Mersey Canal. We followed the canal to the Essex Bridge, crossed the Shugborough Estate and finished in one of the Cannock Chase car parks.

The Staffordshire Way Part 2, Uttoxeter to Cannock Chase

Uttoxeter to the Bagot Estate

Day 4 started from the very same crack in the Uttoxeter pavement as Day 3 finished. Of course it did.

Boots on in Uttoxeter while Francis checks the cracks in the pavement, ensuring this is the right spot

A stroll through Uttoxeter’s southern residential districts took us to field paths and a muddy track to Field Head Farm.

A muddy track to Field Head Farm

There was little of interest beyond a welcome touch of blue in the sky and the skeletons of winter trees.

Another 250m brought us to Timber Lane which starts as a residential road in Uttoxeter but becomes a green lane once it has left the town. There must be some history to a lane like this, but the internet doesn’t know or won’t tell. It heads towards the once huge Needwood Forest, so that may be a clue, or maybe not.

Timber Lane, near Uttoxeter

Timber lane ends at a minor road which we crossed and returned to field paths. Not all the stiles were in good repair so Mike was able to demonstrate his hurdling technique.

A broken stile, elegantly dealt with

For the best part of 3km we crossed scruffy winter meadows and a couple of minor roads…

Scruffy winter meadows between Uttoxeter and Abbots Bromley

…before reaching Hobb Lane. Another interesting name, it might refer to a hobgoblin (how prevalent they are locally is a matter of debate), or to someone called ‘Robert’ or have another derivation entirely..

Hobb Lane

We hardly walked 100m of Hobb Lane before taking a track down to Bagot’s Park where we paused for coffee near the entrance. Nice to see Alison looking happy, but why are Francis and Mike so miserable?

Coffee on the edge of Bagot Park

According to the Staffordshire Way Guide (pub 1996) the 815 acre park is divided in 100 acre blocks farmed on a eight year rotation. Six years of winter cereals, oil seed rape and beans followed by two years ley of grassland. The grass supports a flock of 700 ewes with lambs. With no sheep in sight, Bagot’s Park in winter looked a desolate place.


Bagot Park's, looking a little desolate

The guide also says that 150 years ago the park employed 40 men permanently and another 50 seasonal workers, mainly women while in 2006 the work was done by a manager, a shepherd and two tractor operators.

We dutifully followed the well-signed public footpath which traverses a small copse. In the 13th century the royal Needwood Forest stretched from Abbots Bromley to Burton. Bagot Forest - a section of which can be seen straight ahead - is its largest remaining block of woodland.

Copse on Bagot Park with a Bagot Wood on the skyline

The path zigs and zags and then turns sharp left to follow the Story Brook.

Silver Birch by Story Brook, Bagot's Park

Abbots Bromley

Once out of the park, more field paths now over very gently rolling countryside, took us into Abbots Bromley.

From Bagot's Park to Abbots Bromley

The village is the population centre of a civil parish of just under 2,000 people. First appearing in a written record in 942, it became the property of Burton Abbey on the death of Wulfric, Earl of Mercia in 1010ish. His will (dated 1004) recording gifts of land to the Abbey is held in the Staffordshire County Records Office. A facsimile on Staffordshire Past Track is easily readable – for those who can read hand-written medieval Latin (so not me, and probably not you either).

The village remained in the hands of the abbey until the Dissolution when Henry VIII gave the land to the Paget family and it became Paget’s Bromley. Well before the interesting demise of the Staffordshire Pagets (see the 2018 post Cannock Chase, Venturing Further East) the village reverted to its previous name. (my use of apostrophes – omitted from Abbotts, included in Paget’s and Bagot’s Park – follows that of the OS maps.)

Abbots Bromley has a remarkable 60 listed buildings, but the one that interested us was the 16th century Goats Head Inn. Formerly the Town Hall (maybe) and a schoolhouse, but now, very definitely a pub.

The Goats Head, Abbots Bromley (no apostrophes anywhere)

Where we refreshed ourselves with the same joy as at our coffee break.

Did I forget to say 'smile for the camera?' again

To show I am not a Philistine, here is a listed building that does not sell beer (though it is opposite the pub). Croft’s House is mid-18th century and so exciting that even the ‘forecourt wall and railings’ are listed. It is pleasing, but I find what British Listed Buildings calls the five blind openings, those to right, left and centre containing painted stone balusters a bit of a cheat.

Croft's House, Abbots Bromley (one apostrophe!)

Abbots Bromley to the Trent and Mersey Canal

South of Abbots Bromley we descended into the valley of the River Blithe. It is not a big descent, but then it is not a big river, flowing for 29km from the hills east of Stoke-on-Trent to the River Trent some 5km south of where we were about to cross it.

In defiance of the apparent topography, a dam built in the early 1950s created the largest body of water in Staffordshire, admittedly not a county renowned for its lakes. Blithfield Reservoir covers just over 300ha, but if the Churnet can have a Rhineland, Blithfield is Lake Constance. It provides drinking water for most of South Staffordshire.

Blithfield Reservoir

Our path took us below the dam…

Below the dam, Blithfield Reservoir

…and up the other side of the shallow valley where, for a brief but welcome moment the currant bun broke through the clouds and shone with all the warmth a February sun can muster.

A brief attack of sunshine

Just over the top of the gentle rise is Stockwell Heath, a village so small it has no Wikipedia entry, which has, perhaps, become the definition of a hamlet.

Stockwell Heath.I took a rather dull photo in 2006, this one comes from a walk on a fine January day in 2010

Nearby Colton, with 671 citizens (2011 census) and an overlong Wikipedia entry, is by comparison a megalopolis. An elongated J-shaped linear village, we walked parallel to the upstroke for what fell like ages – a dull slog towards the distant hump of Cannock Chase.

Round Colton, heading for Cannock Chase

Fortunately, a local resident assisted Francis with the map reading, so we reached and crossed the village on the hook of the J just where we intended.

Francis is grateful for the map-reading advice

From Colton we completed the almost imperceptible descent into the wide Trent valley and crossed the Trent and Mersey Canal. Construction of the 150km long canal was authorised by Act of Parliament in 1766 and the first sod was cut by Josiah Wedgwood in the same year. Canal transport would, he calculated, result in many fewer breakages to his pottery than haulage over the rough roads of the age. The work was completed in 10 years with James Brindley as chief engineer. It connects with the Mersey via the Bridgewater Canal and enters the Trent at Derwent Mouth on the Derbyshire/Leicestershire boundary.

The Trent and Mersey Canal

Alongside the Trent and Mersey Canal to Shugborough

We turned north east and followed the tow path for almost 6km towards Stafford...

Approaching Colwich on the Trent and Mersey Canal.

…. passing Colwich and its lock. Although envisaged as part of Brindley’s ‘Grand Cross’ linking all four of England’s major rivers, for most of its length the Trent and Mersey was built with locks capable of accommodating only one narrow boat at a time.

Colwich Lock, Trent and Mersey Canal, photo from a walk in January 2011

The Essex Bridge

We left the canal at Shugborough, walked the short distance to the River Trent which had been shadowing the canal all the way (or vice versa), and crossed it on the Essex Bridge, pausing for a breather in the middle.

Mike, Francis and Alison take a breather on the Essex bridge

The Essex Bridge was built as a packhorse bridge in the late 16th century by the Earl of Essex who held Chartley Castle, some 6km to the north, which seems a long way from Essex. Only 14 of the original 40 spans remain but that still makes it the longest extant packhorse bridge in England.

Just above the bridge is the confluence of the River Sow (left) the river that flows through Stafford, and the Trent, the third longest river in England, but here looking small than the Sow.

The confluence of the Rivers Sow and Trent, photo Jan 2010

Shugborough

The bridge gives access to the Shugborough Estate. Owned by the Bishops of Lichfield until the Dissolution of the Monasteries it was purchased in 1624 by a lawyer called William Anson. The original manor house was demolished by Anson’s grandson (also called William) who then built the central part of the current house. His son Thomas, added the flanking pavilions.

Shugborough Hall

The family worked their way steadily up the ranks of the aristocracy, becoming Barons, then Viscounts and in 1831 Thomas Anson was created Earl of Lichfield. The Anson’s hung on to the house until the death of the 4th Earl in 1960, when it was donated to the National Trust in lieu of death duties. The 5th Earl, the photographer Patrick Lichfield, retained an apartment until his death in 2005.

The public footbath goes past the house and up what feels, at the end of a long day’s walk, a ludicrously extended drive – it is over a kilometre from the house to the main road. Once we had reached the A513, 500m along the main road brought us to one of the many car parks lining the perimeter of Cannock Chase. Having thoughtfully left a car there earlier, that was the end of Day 4.

Today's distance: 27km, a long day but flat and easy walking
Total distance completed: 88km

The Staffordshire Way, Day 4

The Staffordshire Way

Saturday 20 March 2021

Staffordshire Way: Day 3 Hawksmoor Wood to Uttoxeter

Like the Barcelona posts, this is and its companions are a Covid lockdown project. The walk actually took place in 2005/6.

For an introduction to the Staffordshire Way, see Day 1.

Day 3 Saturday 14/01/2006

Following the Churnet to Rocester and the Dove to Uttoxeter

Participants: Francis, Mike, Alison C, Brian, Paul (guest) & Myself

Staffordshire

Our third day takes us beside the Churnet through the so-called Staffordshire Rhineland to Alton (of Alton Towers fame) and then to Rocester, the home of JCB and the end of section 1: The Gritstone Country and The Churnet Valley. Section 2: The Eastern Valleys and Cannock Chase starts by following the River Dove south to Uttoxeter, the largest town on the Staffordshire Way and the end of today's walk.

The Staffordshire Way Section 1: Gritstone Country & The Churnet Valley

Hawksmoor to Alton through the 'Staffordshire Rhineland'

Hawksmoor Wood, just outside the village of Oakamoor, is a National Trust owned patch of ancient woodland. The car park, conveniently adjacent to the B-road from Cheadle to Oakamoor had been the end of Day 2 and was now the start of Day 3. We were ready to walk before 9.30 on a dank January morning.

Preparing to set off from Hawlsmoor

Having left the Churnet when it swung east towards Oakamoor, we had climbed into the forest and now had to return to the river valley. We started with a gentle descent through Sutton’s Wood towards Stoney Dale.

Alison on the path through Sutton's Wood.

…where we perversely turned up the dale away from the river, but only for 200m.

Stoney Dale

Ousal Dale and Dimmings Dale

A 135° left turn took us into Ousal Dale, the route starting with a steepish descent over field paths but soon becoming a tarmac track before passing a magnificent old ...well...tree. Identifying a winter silhouette with confidence is beyond me.

Magnificent old tree

The dale becomes deeper and narrower and then joins Dimmingsdale. Nearing the bottom end, we passed a pond and paused to watch a great crested grebe diving for fish.

Lower end of Dimmingsdale with the former Alton Mill straight ahead

Rural as Dimmingsdale feels now, the area’s industrial heritage is never far away. The pond (visible on the right in the picture above) was constructed to provide power to Alton Mill (100m in front of us). The mill was built in 1741 by George Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, and leased out for the purpose of smelting the lead mined at Ecton some 15km to the north. By 1760 the smelting operation had a smith’s shop, two houses and a barn as well as the pool. By 1786, though, the lead was gone and the mill was converted to grinding corn. The much-altered building is now a private residence.

The 'Staffordshire Rhineland'

100m beyond the mill, and slightly closer to the River Churnet, the path swings right staying a few contours above the river on the steep valley side.

A few contours above the River Churnet

This would have made climbing Toot Hill easier had we not first had to drop to river level to cross an incoming stream. Still, at 161m it hardly required crampons and oxygen…

Climbing Toot Hill

…and despite its silly name the riverside cliff provided a fine view across the Churnet Valley. Some wag (surely, they were not serious) dubbed this area the ‘Staffordshire Rhineland’ and the name appears in all the guide books.

Francis, Lord of All he Surveys, Toot Hill

A long time ago (the 12th of March 2011, to be precise) as we approached the infant Trent near Tittensor, Mike remarked that he had canoed this stretch in his youth and it reminded him of the Dordogne - a cue for some gentle ribbing. But Mike stood his ground and a little later (see The Stone Circle Part 2) he maintained that the Trent - in summer - with low water - on a sunny day - with warm water and 'sandy' beaches - from a canoe - with a picnic - with no trains going past - can feel a little Dordogne-like! A good try, but now consider the sentence ‘We thought this summer we’d drive down to the Dordogne, we'll hire a gîte.’ How does it sound if you replace ‘Dordogne’ with ‘Trent’?

But to be fair, at 483km the Dordogne may be one and a half times longer than the Trent, but they are both major rivers in their respective countries. Now let us consider the Rhine, 1,230km long and one of the great rivers of Europe, and the Churnet almost 50km long and not even the biggest river in north east Staffordshire. Let us also consider Lorelei Rock and Toot Hill... why bother, the names say it all.

I do not wish to disrespect the Churnet or Toot Hill. I like the picture above, and this short stretch is a little gem. But, to compare it with the grandeur of the Rhineland does disservice to both, most particularly to the friendly little Churnet.

I feel better having that off my chest.

Alton, Castle, Towers and Village

Downstream Alton Castle stands above its rocky precipice. The first stone fortification here dates from the 12th century, and from 1442 it was (like much else round here) owned by the Earls of Shrewsbury. The current building is pure Gothic Revival. In the early 19th century, the 15th Earl abandoned the castle and built himself a vast country seat just across the river. As an afterthought, Augustus Pugin was drafted in to rebuild the castle. The castle is now a Catholic youth retreat centre while Alton Towers, once an aristocrat’s country seat, is a theme park attracting over 2 million visitors annually (but not in 2020!). From March to September the sound of screaming fills the valley.

Alton Castle above the Churnet Valley

A few hundred metres further on we entered the village of Alton, well insulated from the sight and traffic – if not the noise - of the theme park.

Alison leads Mike and Paul into Alton

Alton to Rocester

Beyond Alton we found our way to the lengthy, historic but rather dull Saltersford Lane which cuts off a bend in the river. One of the many saltways that probably predate the Norman conquest, it is believed to be part of the route connecting salt-producing Nantwich with Derby via Newcastle-under-Lyme and Cheadle.

Paul and Brian plod down Saltersford Lane

At the end of the lane we turned south and found a sheltered spot for coffee...

Getting ready to move after coffee

...before continuing between the river and the village of Denstone. Reaching the B-road out of Denstone we turned on to it and use Quixhill Bridge to cross to the eastern side of the Churnet for the first time since we left the Caldon canal.

Quixhill Bridge over the Churnet

We walked through water meadows...

Across the Churnet's water meadows towards the wood

...until the river started a series of meanders. Here a wooded hill descended to the eastern tip of the meanders and the path took us across the slope to emerge just above a roundabout where we took the minor road into Rocester.

Rocester

Golden JCB in Udaipur fort,
a gift to the Maharaja from the Bamfords

Rocester is a large village (pop:1,700) standing on the neck of land between the Churnet and the River Dove, 2km north of their confluence. It has several claims to fame, though our route into the village had avoided the largest and most obvious. Rocester seems an odd little corner to encounter the international headquarters of one the world’s biggest digger and construction equipment manufacturers, but the JCB plant and offices are just over the Churnet and have a bigger footprint than the village. Not only is it a huge company, it is still entirely owned by the Bamford family

Reaching the High Street, we located the Red Lion and stopped for a sandwich and a glass of lunch.

Leaving the Red Lion, Rocester

Refreshed we continued down the High Street past Arkwright’s Mill. In 1769 Richard Arkwright patented his water frame, a major advance on Hargreave’s Spinning Jenny which only 5 years earlier had revolutionised cotton spinning. The days of cotton spinning as a cottage industry were over when Arkwright opened his first water powered mill at Matlock Bath, possibly the world’s first factory. Others followed and in 1781 he converted Rocester’s corn mill, powered by the River Dove, into a cotton mill. The mill remained the village’s largest employer until 1950, finally closing in 1985, by which time it had long been overtaken by JCB. As a final act in 2010, the refurbished mill became a secondary school for 800 students – the JCB Academy.

Next door is Rocester’s small football stadium and behind that the site of the Augustinian Abbey, of which nothing remains, and a Roman fort and settlement.

Rocester to Uttoxeter

At the end of the road, we crossed the River Dove (today pronounced like the bird but traditionally rhyming with ‘rove’), turned south and encountered the best angle to photograph Arkwright’s Mill, in 2006 an unused building.

Arkwright's Mill, now the JCB Academy across the River Dove, Rocester

In crossing the river we had not only ventured into Derbyshire (and would stay there for the next 5 kilometres) but had embarked upon....

The Staffordshire Way Part 2; The Eastern Valleys and Cannock Chase

The Staffordshire Way Part 2, Uttoxeter to Cannock Chase

Much of our brief visit to Derbyshire was rather dreary. We walked on flat land away from the river…

Mike brings up the rear as we leave Rocester behind

…pausing to discuss hedge laying techniques – though with no obvious expertise.

Paul and Francis discuss hedge laying

Then it was back to the dull stuff.

Francis and Alison lead through another flat, dank field

Once we found ourselves on a low rise giving a view of the Dove with Uttoxeter in the distance…

The River Dove with Uttoxeter in the distance

…and in the final stretch, over water meadows closer to the river, the light was pleasingly mellow as the January sun started to consider setting in a pale blue sky.

Brian, Mike and Paul cross the water meadows by the Dove

The highlight should have been the Dove Bridge, described by Historic England as having 2 original C14 pointed arches with chamfered arch rings; 2 later rebuilt semi-circular arches with small projecting keyblocks; parapet stone dated 1691 - probably the date of rebuilding.

The bridge once carried the A50 across the Dove, but on the four-lane racetrack that is the modern road you would not notice you were crossing a river, though an eastbound passenger could look across and see the fine, old bridge, which still willingly carries walkers from Derbyshire back into Staffordshire (or vice versa, should you wish).

I have no picture of the Grade II* listed bridge, instead I stood on it and photographed the river. The Dove is the longest in NE Staffordshire, easily out-ranking the Churnet, but it is still no Rhine.

Downstream from Dove Bridge

From the bridge we used the underpass provided to take a footpath under the A50 and then struck out south west across the fields towards Uttoxeter.

We left the Dove, which heads off south east for another 25km (plus wiggles) until entering the Trent at Burton. I have called it the longest river in Northeast Staffordshire, but to be fair, for every one of its 75km, from source to Trent, it forms the Staffordshire/Derbyshire border, so only its right-hand side is really in Staffordshire.

It was a simple stroll into Uttoxeter. JCB may be headquartered in Rocester, but it has a firm grip over the whole area, so much so that its big yellow citizens looked to be at prayer outside Uttoxeter parish church.

At prayer outside St Mary's, Uttoxeter

We had earlier left a car or two in Uttoxeter, so that was where Day 3 came to its end.

Today's distance: 19km
Total distance completed:61km

Staffordshire Way Day 3

The Staffordshire Way