Slitting Mill: A Circular Walk, The 1st FGC Memorial F&C Walk

The Start of a New Era

Staffordshire

This walk, like all real Fish and Chip walks, took place on Cannock Chase, at 68 km² (26 sq miles) one of the smallest of England’s 33 designated Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Once a Royal Forest, it is now managed by Forestry England

It may be small, but it is perfectly formed and, most importantly, it is on our doorstep.

AONBs in England, Cannock Chase ringed
work of DankJae © Natural England copyright 2021. Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2021. Reproduced under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0.

The Gathering

On one of the mildest days of a distinctly cool winter, 5 participants gathered on the Car Park of The Horns Inn at Slitting Mill. Alison C, who had nobly the made the journey from Cheltenham, Lee and Sue, Mike and Alison T, and some worried looking bloke with only half his face in the picture.

Left to right, Sue, Alison C, Lee, Mike, Alison T and me, struggling withy the camera

Anne had cried off on the morning. She is a new grandparent and had been called upon for urgent grandparenting duties, so not only did we miss her company, we missed her skills at taking mass-selfies. I have little experience, short arms and arthritic fingers - and that’s my excuse.

The date of the very first Fish and Chip Walk – originally three teachers talking a country walk to celebrate the end of the Christmas Term – is known only to the celestial scorer, if there is one (and if there is, it is Bill Frindall, as every cricket fan of sufficient maturity knows).

The proto-chip walks were not always on Cannock Chase, and did not necessarily involve fish and chips but over time they settled into that pattern and that name. Brian and I were two of the three originals, the other, the actual progenitor of the Chip Walks (and the 11-year South West Odyssey and much more) was Francis, about whom, more later.

Getting Started

Our walk started and finished at Slitting Mill. A ‘slitting mill’ slits iron bars into rods as part of the nail making process. The first such mill was built here in 1611 and was followed by several others. The mills are long gone, but the village has appropriated the name. Slitting Mill today has 250 inhabitants and looks a pleasant place to live.

The mills were powered by water and the source, Horns Pool, is just behind the pub. It is now used by Staffordshire Match Fishing Club who charge other humans to fish the pool…

Horns Pool

…but kingfishers use it for free. ‘Look, there’s a kingfisher,’ said Alison C standing, behind me as I took the photo. By the time I was able to follow her pointing finger, it had, of course gone. I have still never seen a Common Kingfisher, though I have spotted and photographed white-throated and pied kingfishers in more exotic locations.

We followed the mill stream as it flows beside and a little above a field – which always looks slightly odd. We passed a row of houses, the last always has somebody on guard and at this time it is, inevitably, Father Christmas.

Father Christmas on guard duty.

On to the Chase

Here we turned our back on the open fields typical of most Staffordshire countryside…

Staffordshire farmland

….and made our way onto Cannock Chase.

Lee, Mike, Alison C On Cannock Chase

Mike had organised the route, and supplied us all with a nice map. The OS map from which it is derived shows the footpaths and the forestry tracks, but not the more recently created cycle tracks which cater for the large mountain biking community. We inadvertently found ourselves on one such track and a passing cyclist stopped to point out our error. He was polite and reasonable and at the next opportunity we found a new path a little to the north which headed in the right direction. There is never a shortage of paths on Cannock Chase, the problem was always knowing which one you are on. GPS has simplified such matter and we easily found our way down too at the visitor centre on Marquis Drive.

Slitting Mill is at the northeasterly corner of the route in red

The Brindley Valley

The Tackeroo

From the visitor centre we found our way into the Brindley Valley.

The Alisons inspect a pool in the Brindley Valley

Cannock Chase was a busy place during World War One with two large army camps, one of which later became a prisoner of war camp. To move in all the necessary equipment and keep the camp supplied a narrow-gauge railway was built. The Tackeroo, as it was called (nobody knows why) branched from the West Coast Main Line at Milford, just north of the Chase, made its entry through a cutting (now known as The Cutting), ran through Brocton Camp on the high ground west of the Sherbrook Valley across Penkridge Bank and through Rugeley Camp and the Brindley Valley, eventually reaching Hednesford where it joined the Rugeley-Walsall line.

Several of these walks have started through The Cutting on to the Chase, but this was the first along the Brindley Valley and the southern part of the Tackeroo. Our path ran close to the old rail line though it is no longer visible to the casual observer.

Through the Brindley Valley - the line of the Tackeroo was somewhere to our right.

Brindley Village

After the war the camps were dismantled and the rail tracks removed, though finding chunks of concrete among the trees that can only be explained as war-time remnants as not uncommon.

The hospital on Brindley Heath remained in use until 1924 and was then purchased by the West Cannock Colliery Company to house miners working at the West Cannock No. 5 pit near Hednesford. A community known as Brindley Village grew around it and a school was built. In 1953 the residents were relocated to council housing more conveniently situated in Hednesford. The village was demolished leaving only the occasional foundation and the odd fencepost.

Towards Fairoak Lodge

Before Penkridge Bank Road we turned right across Tackeroo Camp, a modern campsite, deserted in January, and towards more wooded country.

Across the Tackeroo Camp

Some way beyond Marquis Drive we encountered a metal barrier across our path, bearing a line-drawing of a man in a hard hat holding up his hand and saying ‘stop’ and the phrase “Forestry Work, Danger of Death.” These are not uncommon on the Chase, and the ‘danger of death’ is a little overstated. The hazards presented by large vehicles manoeuvring on rough ground, falling trees and men with chain saws are real enough, but they usually work only in a small area of the ground cordoned off. Even so we were reluctant to climb over such a barrier. A short distance away, however, another barrier had been moved aside, whether by forestry workers or an anarchist walker we did not know, but it gave access to path going in the right direction.

We found ourselves on another well-made cycle path, but this time cyclist-free.

Along the cycle path

In places it was steep and the mud was slippery. In theory, I think, Lee was helping Alison T down a slippery section, but a minute or so earlier it was Lee who had had found his footing sliding swiftly downhill followed by an unintentional, though relatively decorous, descent into the mud.

Mutual assistance on a perilous descent, Lee and Alison T

Eventually we sighted the forestry work a couple of hundred metres ahead. Turning left up the side of the valley, we found the next path up which took us away from any danger and delivered us to the access road to Fairoak Lodge.

Back to The Horns

From Fairoak Lodge we decided not to follow the planned route which dropped down to the pools, but keep instead to the higher ground which took us to Birches Valley visitor centre.

On the High Ground approaching Birches Valley

We walked through the visitor centre and Lady Hill Coppice beyond, emerging onto the minor road just outside Slitting Mill. The Horns, where Lynne would join us for the traditional fish and chip lunch was only a short step away.

The Horns, Slitting Mill

We had booked a late lunch, and as the light fades early in late December there was no afternoon walk. The route had been shorter than the traditional walk. Although Lee and Sue are still in (or at least not unadjacent to) their prime and could walk much further, some us (well me) are beginning to feel their age and find 11km quite long enough. Thanks to all for your patience, thanks to Mike for the route planning and to Alison C for making the effort to come so far to be part of it.

I mentioned Francis, the originator of these walks at the start. Last year he joined us for lunch and in the spring moved into sheltered accommodation in Oxfordshire nearer to his daughter. He died suddenly of a heart attack in June. For more, see updates to Dr Francis Gibbs Crane MBE.

Francis lunching at the Ship Inn, Danebridge many years ago

I first blogged about these walks in 2010, and that walk was indisputably the Nth of the series. Last year’s was the (N + 12)th and I feel it is time for new, and more definitive numbering. So, without consulting anybody, and solely for the purpose of this blog, I have named this the First Francis Crane Memorial Fish and Chip Walk. Blog titles are best kept short so, as you can see at the top, abbreviations have been necessary.

The Annual Fish and Chip Walks

The Nth: Cannock Chase in Snow and Ice (Dec 2010)
The (N + 1)th: Cannock Chase a Little Warmer (Dec 2011)
The (N + 2)th: Cannock Chase in Torrential Rain (Dec 2012)
The (N + 3)th: Cannock Chase in Winter Sunshine (Jan 2014)
The (N + 4)th: Cannock Chase Through Fresh Eyes (Dec 2014)
The (N + 5)th: Cannock Case, Dismal, Dismal, Dismal (Dec 2015)
The (N + 6)th: Cannock Chase Mild and Dry - So Much Better (Dec 2016)
The (N + 7)th: Cannock Chase, Venturing Further East (Jan 2018)
The (N + 8)th: Cannock Chase, Wind and Rain (Dec 2018)
The (N + 9)th: Cannock Chase, Freda's Grave at Last (Dec 2019)
The (N + 10)th: Cannock Chase in the Time of Covid (Dec 2020)
The (N + 11)th: Cannock Chase, Tussocks (Dec 2021)
Dec 2020 - no walk
The (N + 12)th: Cannock Chase, Shifting Tectonic Plates (Dec 2023)
The 1st FGC Memorial Walk: Cannock Chase. Slitting Mill, a Circular Walk (Dec 2024)

The Curse of Costa Rica?

Originally entitled Not Going to Costa Rica this post was first published on 13-March-2023. Since then more material has attached itself to the tale; this is the updated version.

A Tale of Woe (Mainly)

Costa Rica 2021

Costa Rica

We had booked a Cuban trip for March 2020 but as departure approached, so did a new and as yet unnamed Corona Virus. I was expecting imminent government action that would cause a cancellation, but it didn’t come, so we went.

It came two days later. Our travel company wanted to bring us straight home, but I demurred and we eventually lost only one day of our holiday. The airline industry was shutting down and we had to fly Havana-Paris-Amsterdam-Birmingham, arriving home the day after the first lockdown had started.

Where are they all?
Driving home from the airport after the start of the first lockdown. March 2020

By summer the prolonged lockdown had worked, the number of cases was much lower and stayed low even after restrictions were lifted. I was no Covidiot, unlike the Prime Minister, Lynne and I had obeyed the rules meticulously, but I was throughout a hopeless Covoptimist. By the end of August, I thought Covid was over and the world would start opening up. We booked a trip to Costa Rice for February 2021.

But of course, it wasn’t over, autumn came and cases rose. The Prime Minister promised a ‘normal Christmas’ even though he was in possession of the facts and projections, but he was, as usual, saying what he thought people wanted to hear. The second lockdown came, I contacted the travel company and we rescheduled for 2022.

Where Were We (not) Going?

Costa Rica has become a popular destination and I was surprised by how many people I have spoken to recently have been there. No doubt, they know where it is, but others seemed less sure. They know its not one of the Spanish Costas, so it must be across the Atlantic somewhere, but where? Confusion with Puerto Rico is common, and understandable, but Puerto Rico is an island, Costa Rica isn’t, it is a slice across central America.

Costa Rica's position in Central America

It is not large, 150 km from the Atlantic to Pacific coast and 400 km north to south. Our plan was to cherry-pick the best of Costa Rica, stopping at five locations across the country.

Flying Gatwick to San José, we would look round the capital and then journey by bus and boat to Tortuguero, a National Park on the Atlantic coast. It was the wrong season for the turtles (never mind, see Oman (2): Sur and Turtles), but we were guaranteed howler monkeys, sloths in the hotel garden and an early morning boat trip to see what we could find. From there we would travel to La Fortuna at the base of Arenal, an active volcano, for lava walks and a dip in a thermal pool.

Costa Rica with our intended stops marked in red

Stop 3 was the cloud forest at Monteverde, with walkways through the canopy – as featured in the Paddington movies, even though it is not ‘darkest Peru’. Then down to the beach at Sámara on the Pacific coast before returning to San José and home.

Costa Rica in 2022

Little did we know it but the 2022 plan started unravelling in September 2021.

Intended Stop 1: Tortuguero National Park (photo: Peter)

Lynne was suffering from a persistent and very unpleasant cough and extreme tiredness. Coughing fits regularly left her retching, but when one brought up a little blood, it was time to consult the medical profession. A series of blood tests, an x-ray and an CT scan failed to throw light on the cough, which by January had gone away on its own, but they did flag up a potential heart problem. We were not worried, Lynne had major heart surgery in 1954 and as the heart/lung machine was yet to be invented the surgeons had only minutes to perform the operation to avoid brain damage. Looking inside the chest now, is alarming – to those who understand these things - but the experimental operation was a complete success and she has been able to live a normal life for the last 70 years.

Long-billed Curlew, Tortuguero (photo: Peter)

We were to travel on Thursday Feb 24th. On the Monday evening a cardiologist phoned us, saying he needed to see Lynne immediately. She said we were going to Costa Rica in two days. He sounded sceptical. Lynne gave him a brief history and he asked if she had regular check-ups. She told him she used to, but was signed off in 2002. ‘They wouldn’t have signed you off if they had seen what I have just seen,’ he replied. And that sentence effectively finished of Costa Rica 2022.

Intended Stop 2: Arenal (photo: Peter)

A week or two later Lynne had an ECG and we walked into his consulting room. He looked surprised, I think he had been expecting an invalid. To be fair, he had been checking her history; we knew (and he discovered) that parts of Lynne’s notes have gone walkabout, but he had clearly done some extra digging and was well informed. He showed us the apparent massive aneurysm, ‘larger than those we operate on’ on his screen. He listened carefully, asked a few questions and suggested Lynne have a MRI scan in a few months’ and if nothing had changed, he would accept it was stable, meanwhile he would support our insurance claim. In June Lynne had her scan, nothing had changed and she will have another in a year. Our travel insurance paid up in full and reinstated Lynne’s cover.

American crocodile, Arenal (photo: Peter)

What Makes Costa Rica Special

Costa Rica – The Rich Coast – was so called because the conquistadors claimed to be impressed by the gold ornaments worn by the natives. They were lying.

From 1609 to 1821 Costa Rica was the southernmost province of the Captaincy General of Guatemala. Being a long way from the capital and forbidden to trade with its southern neighbour (Panama was part of the rival Viceroyalty of New Grenada) it was remote and sparsely populated. In 1719 a Spanish Governor described Costa Rica as the poorest and most miserable Spanish colony in all America.

Coat of Arms of Costa Rica

At independence in 1821 the Captaincy General became the Federal Republic of Central America. Fighting between the constituent provinces doomed the Federation from the start. Costa Rica withdrew in 1838 and proclaimed itself independent, but by then it was unclear if there was anything to withdraw from.

One major reason for Costa Rica's early poverty was the lack of a significant indigenous population available for forced labour. In the mid-19th century this disadvantage turned into an advantage as the lack of a substantial oppressed community enabled greater social cohesion and political stability. Economic expansion loves stability, and coffee, first planted in 1808, became, and remains the most important crop.

Laura Chinchilla President 2010-14
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Being Latin American, Costa Rica had to have at least one military coup; in 1948 a disputed presidential election led to an armed uprising and a bloody 44-day civil war. The would-be military junta lost and to make sure it never happened again Costa Rica abolished its army. Since then, 18 presidents have served single 4-year terms and their successor has been chosen by free and fair elections. President Laura Chinchilla, served 2010-14, was Costa Rica’s first female president.

Rodrigo Chaves, President since 2022
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Costa Rica is today by far the most prosperous of the 5 republics that made up the Guatemala Captaincy, its per capita GDP is almost three times that of Guatemala the second most prosperous. Costa Rica’s Human Development Index, which takes account of life expectancy, education and income is rated 'Very High'.

Costa Rica 2023

We rebooked for February 23rd 2023 - surely nothing could go wrong this time. Early February all seemed well, but as departure approached that cough, the one that had led indirectly to last year’s problem, returned, but I convinced myself it would get better. 24 hours from departure I checked in and then we drove down to my sister’s in Sussex. She had generously offered to put us up for the night, provide car parking and drive us to and from the airport.

Caterpillar of one of the Leucanella family of moths, Arenal (photo: Peter)
If nature has anything more like a decorated turd, I don't want to see it

I was confident we were going when we sat down to dinner. Lynne ate, but did not do justice to an excellent meal. She started coughing when we went to bed and coughed solidly all night. I might have had 60 minute’s sleep, but probably less. At some time in the small hours she said quietly ‘I can’t get on that plane like this.’ My mind had been so set on going, that was the first time I realised the trip was in jeopardy. Removing my head from the sand, I could see it was impossible.

Intended Stop 3: the Monteverde Cloud Forest

Instead of being driven to Gatwick, I drove us home. Lynne went to bed with a lung infection and stayed there for most of the next fortnight. The cough subsided, but the tiredness lingered.

In Conclusion

The first cancellation was just Covid, it was not the only trip we cancelled that year. The second was, I am sure, unnecessary but looking at it from the point of view of the doctor I cannot see what else he could have done, and he left us with no real choice but to cancel. With hindsight it was clear that from the moment Lynne was sent for a chest x-ray the consequences had to play out, but instead of foreseeing the problem we just sleepwalked into it – and the timing could not have been worse. Cancellation three was just unlucky.

Will there be a fourth attempt? Who knows?

Costa Rica 2024

My In Conclusion was a bit too quick. On my birthday in September, I received a communication from my sister, Erica. It was a birthday greeting of the kind you would expect between siblings who live 200 miles apart and so do not see each other often. The final paragraph read I think it is time to fess up that our main holiday this year is to Costa Rica. I did not say anything previously as we did not want to appear as though we were doing a one-upmanship thing on you. I do know that you are far more mature than to think that… and of course I am. I wished them (Erica and husband Peter) well and was glad that one of us would get there, even if it was not me.

My sister Erica and her husband Peter

They booked with a company well-known for sending people to far-flung places. Initially they told them they would fly to San José, the capital of Costa Rica, from Heathrow via Montreal – considerably less of a detour on a globe than it looks on a flat map. A little later they changed this to Heathrow – Frankfurt – San José and then to Heathrow – Miami - San José.

At American airports, unlike all other airports, the segregation between airside and landside only happens at the gate, so once disembarked they cannot separate those who have reached their final destination from passengers in transit. Consequently, everybody must go through the whole rigmarole of entering the USA, and transit passengers must then exit again. To enter, even for an hour, you require a visa or at least a visa waiver.

Side-striped palm-pit viper, Monteverde (photo: Peter)
Good news, a bite is nasty but not fatal to humans (usually)

To receive a visa waiver you must apply by ESTA (U.S. Electronic System for Travel Authorization.) This takes time and costs money, so Erica did not do it immediately in case the company changed their minds again. Once that seemed unlikely, she sat down to complete the on-line form. All went well until the question have you entered Iran, Syria, North Korea or Cuba since 1st March 2011. She spent a week in Iran as a tourist in 2017. Since then, she has acquired a new passport and a new surname, so would a little fib be appropriate? She was tempted, but the consequences of being caught out would be serious - who knows what sources of information governments might have - and one visit, that long ago? Would it matter? She did what I would have done and told the truth - and it did matter. Within the hour she and Peter knew their applications had been rejected.

A bird-feeder in Monteverde is visited by two of the 366 species of hummingbird tentatively identified as:
left a female purple throated mountain gem (the males have the purple throats) and right a green-crowned brilliant

By then it was too late to apply for a full visa – and would it be granted, anyway?

The curse of Costa Rica was striking again.

The travel company were unsympathetic. A cancellation at that stage would mean no refund from the company and their travel insurance would not cover it.

Intended stop 4: The Beach. We intended to stay Sámara, thus photo is of sunset at Tamarindo, 50 km to the north.
I doubt they are very different. (photo: Peter)

But why cancel when there are any number of ways of getting from Sussex to San José. Erica did some research and went back to the company. Eventually they offered four choices, two involved leaving on the wrong day for their pre-booked tour and one was a direct flight from Gatwick to San Jose on the right day. They live 30 mins from Gatwick Airport, so not a difficult choice. BA fly three times a week from Gatwick to San José, they would have to return via Madrid (BA and Iberia are essentially the same company) but that was a minor inconvenience.

So, everything was solved, but still Erica said she would not believe they were going until wheels met tarmac in San José.

Teatro Nacional, San José

And the curse of Costa Rica is not so easily sidestepped. The belated end of the rainy season brought a deluge of biblical proportions. Costa Rica closed down and the Foreign Office advised against all but essential travel.

Just in time the flood abated, the waters receded and a dove was seen flying eastward across the Atlantic with an olive branch in its beak. The curse of Costa Rica was finally lifted.

Erica and Peter enjoyed their holiday, if it was at times a little damp,...

Erica enjoying the rain

... and I am grateful to them for this story and the wildlife photos above.

Eating the Algarve 2024

Originally posted in 2011, Eating the Algarve had a major rewrite in 2022 and since has been updated yearly.

Introduction

Portugal

For me food ranks high among the pleasures of travel and 'eating local'is important. In a very few countries eating local is a chore, endless mutton in Mongolia (there is no choice) or two kebabs a day in Iran (I hear menus have diversified since 2000) leap to mind, but I have a much longer list of lands, from China in the east to Cuba in the west where dinner is a delight. Portugal ranks highly amongst them.

We first visited the Algarve, Portugal’s southernmost region, in 1982, returned several times in the 1990s and have not missed a year this century (except 2020, the Baleful Year of Covid). Since 2005 we have based ourselves at Carvoeiro, one of the smaller seaside resorts. I admire the way the locals accept that, for a part of the year at least, they are a minority in their own town, yet deal calmly and honestly with the invading hordes. I love the October warmth, the sunshine sparkling on the sea, the colours of the bougainvillea trailing across freshly painted white villas, but most of all I love the food.

The Algarve (Carvoeiro underlined) and its position in the Iberian Peninsula (shaded red in inset)

Portugal is often thought of as a Mediterranean country. Portuguese is a Latin language, the climate, particularly in the Algarve is Mediterranean as is the food. Tomatoes, garlic and peppers are important while olive oil is the essential cooking medium, condiment and salad dressing. All it lacks is a Mediterranean coast.

Warm(ish) and blue, but definitely the Atlantic Ocean, not the Mediterranean Sea

The Algarve is a tourist region and thus prey to foreign influences - tapas and sangria from Spain, salmon from northern Europe and, more recently ceviche from South America. Carvoeiro also offers Chinese, Indian, Thai and Nepalese cuisine – and all-day English Breakfast should that be the limit of your horizons. There are an increasing number of tapas, Italian and ‘Mediterranean’ restaurants, but the majority could still be described as 'tipico', where fresh, local ingredients are treated with respect.

Carvoeiro

I have nothing against Indian restaurants or ceviche, but this post is about Portuguese food with am Algarve accent. It is not fine dining (though the Algarve has its Michelin starred restaurants), nor exclusively about restaurant food, it is about good food at everyday prices – something Portugal does supremely well.

Breakfast

We do not go out for breakfast, and there is nothing special about a Portuguese breakfast, but I must crowbar in a mention of presunto. Portuguese has two words for ham, fiambre is wet cured ham, pink, flaccid and forgettable while presunto is air cured – very like the Spanish Serrano Ham. Of the many ways to enjoy presunto, none is better than smeared with a warm, runny egg-yolk.

Presunto, a sadly broken fried egg and an over-large breakfast

Although we eat presunto for breakfast regularly, this is not a regular breakfast, this is the final day, 'clear the fridge' breakfast - well, that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.

Morning Snacks

Coffee and cake! A section of I Don’t have a Sweet Tooth but… is dedicated to Portuguese coffee and cake. I shall not repeat myself here, but I cannot resist a picture of café com leite with a pastel de nata, my absolute favourite.

What eleven o'clock is for

It does not look much, but melts away leaving a legacy of lovely, lingering flavours. It’s like Portugal, not always showy but full of depth and richness.

Light Lunch

As will become obvious in the 'main courses' section, we do go out for lunch, but not for a 'light lunch' - keeping it 'light' would be nigh on impossible. But to control a regime noticeably leaning towards over-indulgence, light lunches are a necessity. We need salad - lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, garlic, a sprinkle of herbs, a dash of vinegar and a drizzle (or downpour) of olive oil - and in the Algarve what better accompaniment than locally produced sardine paté...

Salad and sardine paté

…or maybe some cheese. The Portuguese tend to eat cheese at the start of a meal, but visitors can do as they please. The Algarve produces a little, but most eaten in the region comes from the Alentejo, the next district to the north, or from the Azores, 1,000km out in the Atlantic.

Two cheeses

On the left is an Alentejo sheep cheese. It is close textured with a gentle flavour, but a pleasing tang in the finish. (For more on Alentejo cheese see Eating and Drinking the Alentejo). On the right an Azores cheese made with mixed cow, goat and sheep milk – I don’t know of anywhere else that mixes milks. It is soft and creamy with a delicate flavour but a sumptuous texture.

Main Courses

Fish

Some 100km West to East and 50km North to South, the Algarve is a roughly rectangular with the Atlantic Ocean on two sides. Unsurprisingly, it is blessed with the freshest of fish.

Dourada e Robalo. Sea Bream and Sea Bass are ubiquitous. The tourist-driven fashion of late is to fillet them, but they used to be plated whole....

Robalo, Casa Palmeira, Carvoeiro 2023

....and still are at Casa Palmeira in Carvoeiro.

Dourado, Casa Palmeira, Carvoeiro 2023

...while at the Restaurante Atlântida on the beach at Alvor, Lynne’s Dourada was filleted at the table by the waiter.

Dourada, Restaurante Atlântida, Alvor 2022

Linguado Sole used to be on most menus, then disappeared and is now making a come back.

Sole, Bela Rosa, Carvoeiro 2024

My sole at Bela Rosa in Carvoeiro this year was minimalist, to say the least. I enjoyed a sole that had not been drowned in butter and pebble-dashed with capers.

Sardinha. Sardines are available in (almost) every restaurant in the Algarve and are often the cheapest main course.

Sardines, Dona Barca 2024

Since 1982 we have been making what has become a pilgrimage to the Algarve’s second city of Portimão to eat sardines. The scruffy trestle tables on the dock have long been tidied up, but ducking under an arch from where they used to be brings you to a small square where Dona Barca, an old-style restaurant with communal tables, grills fish in the open air. Since we discovered it with Brian and Hilary in 2001(ish) we have never felt the need to go anywhere else for our sardines. 

Dona Barca 2022, with Brian and Hilary
Sardines, salad and boiled potatoes, so simple, so satisfying

It is a treat we have often shared with friends, usually Brian and Hilary. Dona Barca is inexpensive, the food is excellent (they have a full menu, it’s not just sardines) and it is one of very few restaurants we visit with as many Portuguese customers as tourists. Sadly, the long communal tables disappeared two years ago – more victims of Covid?

Espadarte. I like an occasional swordfish steak. At lunch at the Atlântida they offered an Espadarte Algarvia. There is no agreed definition of ‘Algarvia’ or ‘Algarve style’ but I expected something with tomatoes, peppers and garlic. What I got was different.

Swordfish with orange and almonds, Restaurante Atlântida, Alvor 2022

Oranges and almonds are important local products, but I was not prepared for a slab of fish to be doused in orange (juice and pulp) and sprinkled with toasted almonds. ‘Oranges and fish!' I thought, 'No! No! Thrice No!’ But, believe it or not, it was the best thing I ate all week. Like Lister’s triple fried egg, chilli, chutney sandwich it was all wrong, but perfect.

Perhaps there is a fashion growing here. In 2023 I spotted a restaurant offering 'swordfish with coconut and passion fruit'. After discovering the pleasures of black scabbard fish and passion fruit in Madeira I thought I might try it, but then I read the restaurant's review.

We lunched at the Atlântida at the suggestion of my (distant) cousin Ricky, long- time Algarve resident, fluent Portuguese speaker and now a Portuguese citizen. See Finding a Long Lost Cousin.

Ricky and me, Restaurante Atlântida, Alvor 2022

Ensopado de Enguia (Eel Stew). The restaurants we use in Carvoeiro and along the coastal strip describe themselves as 'tipico' but their clientele is largely tourists and however tipico they want to be, they all have an eye on what will appeal to the north European palate.

In 2023 Ricky took us to the restaurant in her village. She told us they feed local workers on weekday lunchtime and on Sundays (when we visited) people drive up from Portimão (the nearest city) for 'country food'. Wherever the clientele came from they were overwhelmingly Portuguese

A Oficina, Mexilhoeira Grande

A Oficina gave us access to several dishes that do not make it onto the tourist menus and I could not resist trying ensopado de enguia, eel stew. Disks of perfectly cooked eel floated in a somewhat rustic sauce consisting largely of blitzed tomatoes strongly flavoured with coriander. It was accompanied by a plate of chips and fried bread, which would have been perfect if I spent my day labouring in the fields, but for an idle so-and-so like me, was more carbohydrate than I needed. The eel, though was delicious, the white, delicately flavoured flesh falling willingly from the spine.,

Eel stew, A Oficina, Mexilhoeira Grande, 2023

Bacalhau. The Portuguese love affair with salt cod started over 400 years ago and continues to this day, even in the Algarve. However, for me the Algarve is about fresh fish, and Bacalhau feels more at home in the Alentejo, which has far less coastline and a different culinary tradiition. So, for Bacalhau dishes visit The Alentejo: Eating and Drinking 2024.

Other Denizens of the Deep

Lula. Squid has long been a favourite of both of us. They were disappearing from menus a couple of years ago, but I am glad to see they are now making a recovery. In 2022, 2023 and (for Lynne) 2024. We have eaten our squid at the Bela Rosa in Carvoeiro.

Squid at the Bela Rosa, Carvoeiro, 2022

Perfecting squid is tricky and Bela Rosa are doing well enough to encourage our repeated return, but the very finest squid we have eaten was served at Maria's, a breath of fresh air, proper Portugal and sensible pricing on the beach beyond tourist wonderland of Vale de Lobo/Quinta da Largo. After several decades of sterling service Maria sold up. The restaurant is still there, the name is unchanged, but the prices have soared under management fully invested in the creeping Californication of the Algarve.

The good old days at Maria's, Quinta do Largo, 2011
Fish is always best eaten within sight of the sea

There is another style of cooking squid which I have encountered in Portimao and Monte Clérigo on the wild west coast. We both unwittingly ordered it this year at Cozinha da Avó (Grandma's Kitchen) in Carvoeiro.

Squids, Cozinha da Avó, Carvoeiro

The pile of tiny squids, each one stuffed and blackened with squid ink did not please Lynne, but I was happy enough.

Polvo. We regularly ate ate Octopus, more precisely, Polvo à lagareiro in Martins Grill in Carvoeiro. Sadly Jan (Martins) Zegers died some months before this photograph was taken and Martins's Grill has since changed hands, name and style.

Polvo à lagareiro, Martin's Grill Carvoeiro 2019

Lagareiro is a style of cooking often applied to octopus, cod and more in which the grilled or roasted fish is brushed with olive oil.

Arroz de Marisco. Seafood rice usually comes as a dish for two. A large earthenware bowl is placed on the table and, after the waiter has given it a judicious stir, you spoon out the contents, rice, langoustine, crabs, prawns, mussels and anything else that might have been in the market that day. Fingers are required to liberate tasty morsels from shells and it all gets wonderfully messy (bibs are normally provided).

Arroz con Marisco, Casa Palmeira, Carvoeiro, 2023

In 2022 we tried out the Marisqueira Portugal in Carvoeiro. It is, I think, new and is trying to be a touch more elegant and inventive than the opposition.

Marisqueira Portugal, Carvoeiro

They fiddled with a classic, the broth was subtly changes and apart from the clams and mussels the seafood was served separately.  They also used a much shorter grained rice. They almost got away with it, the flavours were good, the crab legs were very fine indeed – and they helpfully provided crackers to provide easy access to the sweetest of meat in the spindly legs – but if you mess with a classic, you really have to nail it, not just be a bit different.

Lynne and a langoustine, Marisqueira Portugese, Carvoeiro

Amêijoas. Clams have always been important in Portugal but the last twenty years have seen serious over-fishing. Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato, clams in a garlicky broth, was once a cheap starter, it still appears on menus but now costs more than most main courses.

You can still find a bag of fresh clams at a reasonable price in a supermarket and cook them at home. I have never essayed Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato, but I do a fair Amêijoas marinière to mess with a classic and mix languages.

Clams marinière frites
Yes, I messed with a classic, but I only had to please my resident food critic and she had no complaint.

Cataplana Dishes

A cataplana is a cooking vessel unique to the Algarve. It consists of a pair of hinged copper shells which enclose the ingredients sealing in all the moisture and all the flavour. It can also be put on the heat either way up. A fish cataplana, usually serving two, will contain several pieces of fish - whatever is available that day - and, typically, prawns and mussels. The smell when your cataplana is opened at the table is memorable.

Cataplana, Vimar, Carvoeiro 2011

The cataplana in the picture was expertly cooked, but I doubt the slab of salmon among the fish is local, and nor are the New Zealand green-lipped mussels at the front. Local produce is excellent and promoting it is even more important now than it was in 2011.

Another dish traditionally cooked in a cataplana is pork and clams, and in 2022 I enjoyed this in an individual cataplana at the Casa Algarvia in Carvoeiro. This apparently strange combination was made in the Algarve, but undoubtedly designed in heaven.

Pork and clams in a cataplana, Casa Algarvia, Carvoeiro. 2022

As that last cataplana involved pork, it is time for the meat.

Meat

Borrego. Throughout the Algarve there are patches of scrubby land with a few sheep and a shepherd. The shepherds are uniformly the sort of old men who feel they still need to do something useful (an affliction I have never suffered from). Lynne felt that as they went to so much effort it was rude not to eat some lamb.

Lynne’s rack of lamb at the Casa Algarvia was top quality meat, perfectly cooked. It was marred, though, by a squirt of commercial mint sauce at the side of the plate, partly over some salad. I suspect unimaginative British tourists have for years been telling Portuguese restaurateurs that ‘we always eat lamb with mint sauce’ and this is the result. Mint sauce has its place in a British-style ‘roast dinner’, but it is just inappropriate here.

Rack of lamb, Casa Algarvia, Carvoeiro, 2022

Frango Piri-piri. Chicken piri-piri was on (almost) every menu in the Algarve long before Nando’s existed. Nandos was co-founded in South Africa by Fernando Duarte, a Portuguese Mozambiquan who gave the dish the fast-food franchise treatment and aligned himself with the gastro-criminals of KFC, MacDonalds and the rest. There are mercifully very few fast-food franchises in Portugal (though there is a Burger King with a ludicrously large sign in Lagoa) and chicken piri-piri is cooked individually by each restaurant in their own style. It is traditionally our lunch on our last day in Portugal.

Chicken piri-piri, O Barco, Carvoeiro 2022

Portugal and the chilli: a small digression

The chilli pepper was first cultivated in Mexico some 10,000 years ago. Several millennia later It was taken to Asia by Portuguese traders, arriving in India in the late 16th century and recasting the whole cuisine of south-east Asian. Vindaloo, the ultimate test of British diner's machismo, originated in the Portugal's Indian colony of Goa, as an example Portuguese/Indian fusion.

They took the variety that would become piri-piri to Africa and it made its way to the Portuguese mainland from their colony of Mozambique. Chilli does not appear in traditional Portuguese cookery but sausages (chouriço piquante) and sardine paté with piri-piri are widely available, as is piri-piri sauce, suggesting it is much used in home cookery.

Desserts

Dessert menus usually involve a large glossy folded card produced by a manufacturer of synthetic desserts and ice creams. Stuck somewhere on the card there will always be a small, sometimes hand-written, list of the grown-up desserts, many of them made in-house. Ever present is pudim flan, a rich eggy caramel custard, which is perfect when you have too little room for anything heavier. Sometimes it is just perfect.

Lynne and a pudim flan, Martin's Grill, Carvoeiro 2019

If you have a little more space left, there are bolos (cakes) and tartes (translation unnecessary) made from local produce including (but not limited to) almonds, figs…

Fig and almond roll, Atlântida, Alvor, 2022

… carobs, oranges…

An amazingly light yet full flavoured orange cake, and an affogato of sorts
O Barco, Carvoeira, 2022

and apples. The cakes are usually made with one egg more than would be normal elsewhere and are universally wonderful.

And there is always the mysterious little package known as Dom Rodrigo.

Dom Rodrigo, Marisqueirra Portugal, Carvoeiro, 2022
Very enjoyable, but rather small once you get in there

Extroduction

I have omitted nibbles and starters, and the mandatory eating of olives that precedes every meal, but I have already gone on too long and should stop now.

Bread, olives and white port - well why not?

Algarve Posts

The Algarve: Delights and Depredations(2010)
Mexilhoeira Grande and a Long Lost Cousin (2013)
The West Coast (2013)
Lagos (2014)
Castro Marim and Vila Real do Santo António (2015)
The Boxes of Carvoeiro (2016)
Mertola and Alcoutim: Strongholds by the Guadiana River (2017) - Also under Alentejo
Silves, Former Capital of the Algarve (2018)
Drinking the Algarve (2022)
Eating the Algarve (2024)