Saturday 27 January 2018

Bikaner: Rajasthan Part 3

India

Rajasthan

This post covers day 4 of a 16-day journey around Rajasthan.

The size of Germany, Rajasthan is the largest of India’s 29 states. With the Thar Desert covering the north and west it is one of India’s less densely populated states, though with 200 people per km² (the same as Italy) it is hardly empty.

Today's Journey, Mandawa to Bikaner across northern Rajasthan

In the 11th and 12th centuries the rise of the Rajputs created some 20 or so petty kingdoms ruled by Maharajas - the ‘Rajput Princes’. These kingdoms, at first independent, later vassal states of the Mughal or British Empires survived until 1947, when the Maharajahs led their ‘Princely States’ into the new Union of India, creating Rajasthan (the ‘Land of Princes’). The rulers became constitutional monarchs until 1971 when the Indian government ended their official privileges and abolished their titles. ‘Maharaja’ is now a courtesy title, but most remain leading members of their communities and some are still immensely rich. Several, like their British counterparts, have supplemented their income by turning forts and palaces into tourist attractions and hotels.

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Palaces and Sweets

Wildlife by the Road to Fatehpur

Next morning, we left the haveli at Mandawa and set off for Bikaner some 180 km east across the Thar desert. At first we followed a minor road, wide but heavily patched, running straight across the arid scrub to Fatehpur.

The minor road from Mandawa to Fatehpur

We had not been going long when Umed suddenly brought the car to a halt, pointed to our right and said 'nilgai.' I did not like to admit I had no idea what 'nilgai' meant (Lynne tells me she was less ignorant) so I followed his finger and saw that his sharp eyes had spotted a group of antelopes in the shade of some trees. The nilgai (blue bull) is endemic to the Indian sub-continent and is locally common. This group were all females, we saw a male a little further on, but too far off to photograph [update: we did better at Ranthambhore]. They are larger than the females, surprisingly bull shaped and really are blue(ish) hence the name.

Nilgai by the Mandawa - Fatehpur road

Fatehpur (not to be confused with Fatehpur Sikri the purpose built Mughal capital near Agra) is 20 km from Mandawa and has one notable haveli controversially restored by the French artist Nadine le Prince. The wholesale repainting of murals has upset some but her haveli stands in sharp contrast to the once elegant but now sad, broken-down havelis around it. Fatehpur generally looked a sad broken-down town, the road surface disappearing for several hundred metres and water (where did that come from?) had collected in a dip to form a small muddy flood.

The town centre was more lively, and on the southern outskirts we re-joined the main Jaipur - Bikaner highway.

Fatehpur town centre

The Lallgarh Palace, Bikaner

The remaining 160km was on a good road and we reached Bikaner in time for lunch. Umed drove us straight to the Lallgarh Palace.

Approaching the Lallgarh Palace, Bikaner

The Rough Guide describes Bikaner as a 'smog filed commercial city'. Built on land as flat as a pancake it seemed, at first sight no worse, or better than other Rajasthani cities. Rao Bika founded the city in 1486 and named it after himself, following in the footsteps of his father Rao Jodha, King of Marwar, who had named his new capital Jodhpur.

Rao Bika was the first of 22 rulers of the Bikaner State, which later became a vassal of the Mughal Empire and then of the British Empire. His successors were granted the title of Rajah by the Mughal Emperors in the late 16th century, and Maharaja a century later. In 1947 Maharaja Sadul Singh led the rulers of Rajasthan's princely states in joining the new Republic of India. The title was officially abolished, in 1971, but Sadul Singh’s grandson Ravi Raj Singh holds the courtesy title. He is a Jaipur based banker, while his sister Rajyashree Kumari, owns and lives at the Lallgarh (or Lalgarh) Palace, Bikaner.

Sir Samuel Swinton Jacob designed the Laxmi Niwas Palace for Maharaja Ganga Singh and building started in 1896. It was later extended to become the Lallgarh Palace and part of the complex is now a heritage hotel.

The Lallgarh Palace Hotel, Bikaner

Checking in to a palace feels slightly strange, and our room was certainly palatial. We hardly had time to hike its length and breadth before grabbing a lunch of mixed pakoras and setting off with Umed and local guide, G, to Junagarh.

Our room in the Lallgarh Palace Hotel

Junagarh, Bikaner

Rao Bika built Bikaner’s first fort, but by the 16th century something larger and stronger was required so Maharaja Rai Singh oversaw the building of the Chintamani Fort. Completed in 1594 (though many additions were made in the following centuries), it is vast, walls 4m thick and 12m high, once surrounded by a moat 6m deep, defended an area of 5ha. The only major fort in Rajasthan not built on a hill or rocky outcrop – Bikaner has no such thing – it was attacked several times but never taken. By the late 19th century the comforts of a modern palace were more attractive than the security of a medieval fort, so the Lallgarh Palace was built and Chintamani was renamed Junagarh (lit: Old Fort).

Junagarh, Bikaner

With several courtyards, six mahals and a garden I apologise in advance for any omissions or misplacements.

We entered the main courtyard through the Suraj Pol (Sun Gate). Beside the Daulat Pol are the red handprints of 41 royal women who committing sati, joining husbands killed in battle on their funeral pyres. First mentions of the practice date from the 3rd century BC, but it grew in popularity (if that is the right word) between the 5th and 9th centuries among the warrior nobility, the very people who would rule Rajasthan, before spreading throughout India. At first tolerated by the British, pressure from Christian missionaries and Hindu reformers led to the practice being banned in West Bengal in 1829 and throughout India in 1861 with little opposition. G did not show us the handprints, I do not know why.

Sandstone end of the main courtyard, Junagarh

The mahals largely surround the main courtyard which maybe sandstone at one end but has a Mughal style pool in Carrara marble at the other.

Marble end of the main courtyard, Junagarh

The highly decorated Karan Mahal….

Decorated ceiling, Karan Mahal, Junagahr, Bikaner

…was built by Raja Karan Singh (r1631-67) to celebrate a victory over the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. Above the raja’s throne is a punkah to keep the great man cool, though now the room is air conditioned the punkah-wallah has had to find another job.

Throne in the Karan Mahal, Junagarh, Bikaner

We crossed another courtyard…

Courtyard, Junagarh, Bikaner

To the Anup Mahal. After his initial defeat Aurangzeb did not back down, deposing Karan Singh, installing Anup Singh in his stead and promoting him to Mahajara. The Anup Mahal is the grandest room in the palace. The carpet in front of the sumptuously decorated throne was made by the inmates of Bikaner jail, a manufacturing tradition that survived until recently.

Anup Singh's throne, Anup Mahal, Junagarh, Bikaner

The walls of 19th century Badal Mahal (Cloud Palace), more a wide corridor than a hall, are painted to representing a sky suffused with monsoon clouds threaded with snakes of lightening.

Badal Mahal, Junagarh, Bikaner

Up the stairs we entered a room full of oddities, the medals given to the local rulers by the Mughal empire who did not mess around with little things to pin on your chest…

Mughal medals, Junagarh, Bikaner

…and various beds of nails and swords….

Swords for standing on, should you so desire, Junagarh, Bikaner

…used by sadhus to demonstrated whatever it is they demonstrate.

Sadhu standing on swords, Junagarh, Bikaner

We passed the maharaja’s swing (apparently his slide, roundabout and dodgems not on show) on our way to…

The Maharaja's swing, Junagarh, Bikaner

…the Chandra Mahal which includes the royal bedrooms. The low bed prevents assassins hiding beneath it, while strategically placed mirrors ensured the maharaja could observe any who approached.

Chandra Mahal, Junagarh, Bikaner

A window gave a view of the gardens as we made our way downstairs to the 20th century Ganga Mahal.

Palace Garden, Junagarh, Bikaner

Maharaja Ganga Singh

In the twilight years of India’s ruling maharajas, Maharaja Ganga Singh (r1887-1943) - General Sir Ganga Singh - was a colossus. ‘He was a general in the English Army,’ G told us, slightly awestruck. My inner pedant wanted to tell him there has been no such thing as the ‘English Army’ since the Act of Union in 1707, but I suppressed the irritating know-all. Ganga Singh joined the army in 1898 and fought for the British in China during the Boxer rebellion. He formed and led the Bikaner Camel Corps which fought in the Somaliland campaign (1902-4) and in Egypt during the First World War. In 1917 Lloyd George appointed him to the War Cabinet, a group of 12 men (no women) who met throughout 1917 and 18 to discuss the nature for the post-war British Empire. The cabinet included Lloyd George himself and the Primer Ministers of Canada, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa while India was represented by the Lieutenant-Governor of the United Provinces and Ganga Singh, the only non-white face at the table. He later represented India at the Versailles Peace Conference and at the League of Nations.

War cabinet 1917 (and aides), Ganga Singh is second from left, middle row with resplendent Maharaja's moustache

Quite how he came to acquire a de Havilland bi-plane during his First World War exploits is obscure, but it is currently exhibited in the Ganga Mahal.

Ganga Singh'a de Havilland bi-plane, Ganga Mahal, Junagarh, Bikaner

At home, he responded to the 1899-90 famine by building an irrigation system to ensure it never happened again, he established a Supreme Court with independent judges, established limited local democracy and promoted the education of girls and women. He was an all-round good egg, who devoted his life to the service of Bikaner, India and the British Empire, but found time to build himself the vast and comfortable Lallgarh Palace.

Rasgulla and Bikaner's Other Famous Sweets

More than once G had mentioned the excellence of Bikaner’s sweets so it seemed a good idea to hunt some out. Umed drove us into the city centre and G led a short walk past some vegetable stalls…

Vegetable stalls, Bikaner

… and several havelis, some in poor repair, others carefully repurposed…

Restored havelli, Bikaner

… and near the Ashirwad Eggs Zone…

Ashirwad Eggs Zone, Bikaner

… was the city's foremost sweet stall.

Sweet stall, Bikaner

We perused the goodies on display and at G's suggestion bought a couple of Rasgulla, fluffy white balls of cottage cheese steeped in rose water. ‘Give them a pinch,’ G instructed, ‘to squeeze out the excess rosewater then pop then in your mouth.’ We did, they were lovely, but at 10 rupees each over far too quickly. At twice the price we tried their larger yellow cousins flavoured with saffron. They were even lovelier, so we bought some more.

Eating saffron rasgulla, Bikaner (I don't know why the fellow on our left is regarding us with such suspicion)

We arrived back at the Lallgarh Palace as the light was beginning to fade but had time for a walk round the gardens and a look at the statue of the redoubtable Ganga Singh, who built it all.

Maharaja Ganga Singh at the Lallgarh Palace

Laal Mans and Ker Sangria - Dinner Rajasthani Style

Rejecting the buffet in favour of the à la carte at dinner we choose laal maas (or maans), the same dish, we discovered, that we had eaten under a different name in Jaipur. Laal maas, red lamb, is a local stew, the meat slowly cooked in a rich sauce packed with fire and flavour. A good Laal Maas should put sweat on the brow, and this one did, though we eschewed the bowl of yogurt supplied in case our tender foreigner’s palates needed some fire-fighting. With it we ordered ker sangria. According to legend, ker, the berry of a wild shrub and sangria, the bean of the Khejari tree, were only eaten in time of famine, then someone put them together, cooking them with chillis, asafoetida, turmeric, ajwain, mango powder and coriander and created a local favourite, served at every Rajasthani wedding. A dry dish it went well with the laal maas with its ample sauce, its flavour mild but unusual, though the ker berry was a little sour for my taste.

Lynne, laal maas and ker sangri, Lallgarh Palace, Bikaner

Rajasthan, Land of Princes

Part 1: Jaipur and Amber (or Amer)
Part 2: Mandawa, Town of Havelis
Part 3: Bikaner, Sweets and Palaces
Part 4: Across the Thar Desert from Bikaner to Jaisalmer
Part 5: Jaisalmer in the Heart of the Thar Desert
Part 6: Jodhpur, Not Just a Pair of Trousers
Part 7: Rohet and the Bishnoi People
Part 8: Narlai, Small Town, Large Rock
Part 9: Ranakpur Jain Temple and on to Udaipur
Part 10: Udaipur (1), Royal City
Part 11: Udaipur (2) Bagore Ki Haveli and Dal Baati Churma
Interlude: Breakfast Thoughts in Udaipur
Part 12: Chittorgarh and on to Bundi
Part 13: Tiger Hunting in Ranthambhore

THE END

Friday 26 January 2018

Mandawa: Rajasthan Part 2

India

Rajasthan

This post covers day 3 of a 16-day journey around Rajasthan.

Day 3, Jaipur to Mandawa in north east Rajasthan

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Town of Havelis

Jaipur to Mandawa

Escaping Jaipur's urban sprawl took some time....

...but eventually we were on a good dual carriageway heading north. As I observed in the Jaipur post slow traffic usually travels in the outside lane, and the inside lane is for overtaking.... not officially, but this is India.

About to undertake on the dual carriageway out of Jaipur

After a while the dual-carriageway ceased, but progress remained much swifter than yesterday, despite the problems of the occasional camel cart....

Camel cart, and other traffic, between Jaipur and Mandawa

...and the yellow painted roadblocks. Allegedly these are calming measures but introducing an unannounced chicane into India's unruly traffic creates more dangers than it calms. [update Feb 9th 2018. On the day we left, the Hindustan Times was reporting that a traffic policeman in a Delhi suburb had joined two such barriers with a wire before going home for the night. The unwary motorcyclist who later attempted to drive between them died instantly and an angry crowd had gathered outside the police station.]

Traffic calming measures between Jaipur and Mandawa

Mandawa, our destination for the day lies off the main highway and the final fifteen kilometres were on a minor road on the margins of the Thar desert, a flat, parched and dusty land.

The minor road into Mandawa

Mandawa

We reached the small town of Mandawa around twelve and Umed found (or guessed) a route through the narrow streets to the Sonthaliya Gate. The existence of a city gate, might suggest a city wall, though I have found no evidence for one, there is just a gate in the middle of the narrow main street.

The Sonthaliya Gate, Mandawa

Four of our first five stops on this journey are in cities once ruled by Maharaja’s, little Mandawa (pop 20,000) is the exception. Shekhawati was the princely state immediately north of Jaipur and this arid semi-desert region’s capital moved several times before settling at Jhunjhunu, a much bigger city (though hardly a household name) 20km north east of Mandawa.

In 1640 the Maharaja of Shekhawati made his younger brother the first Thakur (lord/ruler) of Mandawa, though there was then little to rule in this remote rural corner. In the 18th century burgeoning trade brought wealth to Shekhawati which lay on one of the main east-west caravan routes. In 1740 Thakur Nawal Singh dug a well and built a fort at Mandawa, though whether to attract the caravan trade or in response to a growing demand I do not know. Mandawa grew rich, and its merchants built themselves fine houses, the richly painted havelis that still adorn the town.

For two hundred years Mandawa prospered, but in the 20th century transport changed, the caravans disappeared, the rich merchants left and their havelis fell into disrepair. The 21st century has given some of them a new lease of life. The 18th century Mandawa Haveli by the Sonthaliya gate, once the home of a jeweller became a heritage hotel in 1999.

Mandawa Haveli Hotel, Mandawa

It has a fine atrium...

Atrium, Mandawa Haveli Hotel, Mandawa

...and stylish bedrooms. Though full of character, it had no heating, which matters little for most of the year, but January nights are chilly.

Our room, Mandawa Haveli Hotel, Mandawa

Mandawa Walking Tour

We lunched on vegetable and paneer pakoras in the haveli’s garden before taking a walking tour of the town.

The first haveli we saw boasted a rooftop restaurant. Here the paintings are bright and shiny...

Monica restaurant in restored haveli,Mandawa

....while at the second, they were unrestored and faded...

Partially restored haveli, Mandawa

...but included an interesting view of a European woman with a gramophone.

Woman with gramophone, Haveli wall, Mandawa

Another haveli's faded paintings show a cyclist and British soldiers apparently bridging a ravine.

Cyclists and the Royal Engineers, unrestored haveli, Mandawa

Elsewhere there were lines of sad, crumbling havelis.

A line of sad, crumbling havelis, Mandawa

One restored building was open to the public, the new paintings bright, crisp and maybe a little less respectful of their subjects than the original would have dared to be. There are disputes as to how far restoration should go, should the old paintings merely be conserved so they deteriorate no further or is repainting acceptable? Having this debate is healthy and I will merely observe there are enough restorable havelis to embrace both approaches.

Over-restored paintings? Haveli in Mandawa

The view across the town from the roof was less controversial...

View over Mandawa from a haveli roof

...and they demonstrated that although tourism in Mandawa is in its infancy they understand the principle of 'exit through the gift shop.' We acquired a small antique brass Ganesh.

Mandawa's havelis, whether restored or decrepit, have a basic similarity so it was a relief to see something different. The town's elaborate well (and I have no idea how it is related to Thakur Nawal Singh’s original) is no longer in use but it is typical of the area. The design can be seen in local villages and standing alone among the fields.

Mandawa Town Well

On our way to the fort we encountered a red-wattled lapwing delicately picking its way across a small sandy square. I am pretty confident of that identification, but being far from expert in the field.... It is a common bird, but it is a wader and I could think of nowhere in this parched landscape he could go for a paddle.

Red-wattled lapwing, Mandawa

Nawal Singh’s fort, like his well, no longer fulfils its original function. It is now Mandawa’s premier heritage hotel – or at least its most expensive.

Mandawa Fort

Nearby the modern Raghunath temple has been constructed and decorated in haveli style. It is a pretty little building, but I have been unable to find out anything about it except that Raghunath is an alternative name for Rama.

Raghunath Temple, Mandawa

Returning to our hotel we passed the other way through the Sonthaliya gate. Though two sides are very different, this one being topped by a statue of Hanuman, the Monkey God.

The other side of the Sonthaliya Gate

Dinner at the Mandawa Haveli

In the evening the rooftop candlelight dinner seemed as good an option as any – not that Mandawa offers many. All who passed through the atrium were treated to a puppet show with percussion accompaniment. Amusing and skilful it lasted around five minutes, the ideal length for a puppet show.

Puppet show, Mandawa Haveli Hotel

Roof access was by two flights of steep concrete stairs inside the walls (access to the breakfast room next morning was even more precarious - this is not a place for those with mobility problems).

The candlelight was helped out by wall lights, so we could almost see our food, and warmth was provided by charcoal braziers which the staff kept nudging closer and closer to the tables as ‘cool’ progressed to ‘cold’. January days in Rajasthan are pleasantly warm, sometimes hot, but the temperature plummets once the sun has set. I generally dislike lunchtime and evening buffets (breakfast buffets are another matter) the food is often cooked too long in advance and it is easy, particularly in the dark, to pile your plate high with too many, sometimes conflicting, flavours. That said, we ate well enough (though by the end the charcoal braziers were no longer adequate) and there was Kingfisher beer to drink.