Showing posts with label UK-England-Cheshire. Show all posts
Showing posts with label UK-England-Cheshire. Show all posts

Tuesday 14 August 2012

Shutlingsloe and Danebridge: Cowpat Walk No. 5

A Circular Walk in the Peak District Based on Shutlingsloe Hill


Cheshire
Cheshire East
It is over an hour’s drive from Stone to the Hanging Gate, an isolated pub on the minor road that runs from the A54 to the Macclesfield Forest. East of this road the farmland drops away before rising to Piggford Moor topped by the bulk of Shutlingsloe, our target for the morning, while to the west is the Cheshire plain, the view extending from the huge telescope of Jodrell Bank in the south to the distant silhouette of the Fiddler’s Ferry power station over thirty miles away in the north.
Francis & Alison are ready to set off, The Hanging Gate, near Macclesfield Forest

The Hanging Gate to Macclesfield Forest

The sun shone as we walked north to the Macclesfield Forest, first on the minor road from the Hanging Gate, then on an even smaller road past the hamlet of Hardings.

Hardings

Reaching the forest we turned east through the trees, mainly larch, spruce and pine though with patches of beech and sycamore. Some areas have been clear felled - it is a commercial forest - and parts of these are being replanted with oak and ash.

Into the Macclesfield Forest

We could see the wide track we wanted rising steeply towards the moors, but our path seemed to be taking an eccentric route to join it, so we set off on a more direct, unofficial but apparently well-trodden path. It petered out, as these things often do, but we persevered, crashing through the underbrush and across a streambed. Ducking under the branches of a hawthorn bush, I came to an unexpected stop. A sizable thorn had hooked my shirt at the back of my neck and I was left ensnared in the vegetation as Francis and Alison disappeared into the distance. For a while I wriggled ineffectually but, as Alison returned to see if she could help, I finally managed to unhitch myself. I had a large hole in my best tee-shirt (and I’ve only had it ten years) and the freed branch lashed across my forearm leaving several deep scratches. [Update August 2017: Leaving a scar I must now regard as permanent!]

Up to Piggford Moor

We reached the path and slogged up it towards Piggford Moor. I am not entirely clear on our route as the paths on the ground failed to match those on the map, which is not unusual in forests. It mattered not as the relevant junctions were signed and we finally joined the single path across the moor towards Shutlingsloe.

Up towards Piggford Moor

Even in sunshine Piggford Moor is a desolate and boggy place. The National Park authorities have laid flags along the path to prevent erosion and keep it from spreading ever wider as walkers seek out firm ground. It also stops boots from trampling across the nature reserve. The moor does have an austere beauty, but I would seriously question the judgement of any species that chose to make it their home.

Onto Piggford Moor

Up and Down Shutlingsloe

Shutlingsloe had been out of sight since we started walking but now loomed up ahead of us. According to Wikipedia it is, at 506m, the third highest peak in Cheshire – was ever a hill so damned with faint praise? It sits on the ridge of Piggford Moor looking like a huge earthwork; only from close to is its rocky nature obvious. Constructed of alternate layers of mudstone and gritstone it has, like The Cloud in Cowpat 4, a cap of Chatsworth grit though, unlike the Cloud’s sloping cap, Shutlingsloe’s is, if not horizontal, at least a little flatter. The ascent is made up of a series of partly natural rocky steps, some of them large enough to require the use of hands as well as feet - at least for those with arthritic knees.

Shutlingsloe

From the top there is a fine view across the Cheshire Plain, with the Roaches and Ramshaw Rocks to the south, Macclesfield Forest to the north and Shining Tor (Cheshire’s highest peak!) to the north east.

The summit, Shutlingsloe

Even on a fine day it is a windswept spot so we walked a few metres off the summit for coffee and I took the opportunity to wash my arm. The hawthorn scratch had left a thick smear of blood around my watch strap, suggesting to the casual observer that I was enjoying the day so much I had slit my wrist.

Coffee stop just off the summit, Shutlingsloe

According to folk wisdom high flying swallows are a sign of good weather. I have difficulty believing that swallows are capable of meteorological forecasting, but if their altitude merely tells us that the weather is already warm, why bother observing the swallows? This has troubled me for years. A swallow flew past at head height, clearly flying low, four flaps further on it was 100m above the surrounding moorland, clearly flying high. What can this mean? Below us Francis spotted a kestrel gliding easily across the hillside scanning the ground for the slightest movement – some actions are easier to interpret.

Down into Wildboarclough

To the east the land drops directly into Wildboarclough, making the descent both steeper and much longer than the ascent. Without my poles I would have struggled to make it down to the farm track, along which we made a gentle descent into the depths of the valley.....

Finally a gentle descent into Wildboarclough

...pausing only for the mandatory photograph of botanical interest.

Foxgloves beside the track into Wildboarclough

We reached Clough Brook, walking beside it for a while before crossing it to cut off a bend and then re-crossing it to reach a minor road which we followed south to and across the A54.

Clough Brook

The Valley of the River Dane

Leaving the minor road we made for the confluence of the River Dane and Clough Brook.

The valley of the River Dane

Although there was only one path on the map the track split, an old sign pointing down the lower branch and a brand new one directing us to the higher branch. We followed the new sign, partly because its newness, partly because the map suggested we should keep high on the valley side. For a few hundred metres we followed the track in and out of the gorse, round (and through) a thicket or two and then it petered out.

In and out of the gorse....

Making a small downhill exploration Francis spotted a marker post a little lower in the valley and we made our way down to it. A very clear trail led downwards and Francis set off along it. A fainter track contoured along the valley side and Alison stood on that and wondered. I walked back to the marker post. The arrow pointed back the way we had come, but as there was no path there I suspected Alison was on the right track. Francis, though, was confidently striding down the most obvious path and as he is never wrong I shut up and followed him, and so did Alison.

The wide, clear path led us several hundred metres along the side of the valley before coming to a full stop at a wire fence. There was nothing for it but to climb straight up the valley side, the abundant boot marks in the steep slope suggesting we were not the first to make this mistake.

It was ten minutes’ hard slog (well, maybe five but it felt like fifteen) up to the opening in the fence on the correct path. We followed the path high above the river to Bottomley Farm and then through a small wood where a footbridge crossed Hog Clough. We emerged in the village of Danebridge, a long way above the bridge but, more importantly, right beside the Ship Inn. After a long morning’s walk it was nearer to 2 o’clock than 1 and the pub was a very welcome sight.

The Ship at Danebridge


The Ship, Danebridge

I have visited the Ship several times over the years on various walks – though none previously in this blog – and have often wondered why a pub as far from the coast as is possible in this island is called The Ship. We ordered sandwiches and soup and a couple of pints of JW Lees bitter and let Michael, the cheerful and informative landlord explain. Danebridge, he told us, was once a stopping point on a drovers’ road and shippen is a dialect word for a drovers’ shelter, a two story building with animals quartered below and people above. Over the years the ‘shippen’ had become 'The Ship', though the pub itself, built from stone recycled from the local monastery after dissolution in the 1530s, is far too grand a building ever to have been a shippen itself.

Michael, the cheerful and informative landlord, The Ship, Danebridge

The building's use as a pub predates the ship on the inn sign, partly hidden by vegetation, by two hundred years. This vessel is the Nimrod, Ernest Shackleton’s ship that was crushed by antarctic ice in 1907. The pub was once part of the estate of nearby Swythamley Hall, seat of the Brocklehurst family, and Sir Philip Brocklehurst, the second baronet, was on the Shackleton expedition. In the 1970s the Brocklehurst family- like several of our footpaths - petered out . The pub was sold separately from the Shackleton memorabilia it then housed, and the sign is now the only connection with early 20th century heroics.

North to The Hanging Gate via Hammerton Farm

The afternoon’s walk was appropriately brief, a mere 5km almost due north. It may have been short but the first 4km were almost all uphill – though not too steeply. From Danebridge at around 200m we reached a high point of 382m on the road south of the Hanging Gate.

We started with a gentle climb over pasture land, before dropping down to re-cross Hog Clough 400m upstream from our earlier crossing. It was a warm afternoon and the streamside vegetation clung on to the heat and exuded humidity. It was a relief to return to more open land climbing up to Hammerton Farm.

Towards Hammerton Farm

We continued along a small swale which led us onto more open land rising up to the A54. Across the main road the path rounded the low protuberance of Brown Hill before bringing us out on the road to the HangingGate.

Between Hammerton Farm and the A54

The walk finished with a kilometre and a half on tarmac along the ridge we had driven up at the start. Shutlingsloe came back into view, first poking its head over the farmland to the east.......

Shutlingsloe pokes its head above the famland

.......then gradually rising above it until finally, as we passed the high point on the road, we had a fine view of the hill and its surrounding moorland.

Shutlingsloe and Piggford Moor

Despite the heat I thought I was keeping up a good pace, but I started to lag behind Francis and Alison who reached the car about a hundred metres ahead of me. Then they had wait, because I had the keys.

I seem to be flagging

Approx Distance: 15 km

The Cowpats

Saturday 12 May 2012

Biddulph, The Cloud and Rushton Spencer: Cowpat Walk No. 4

A Circular Walk Around Staffordshire's North East Corner

Staffordshire
Staffordshire Moorlands

With just Francis, Mike and myself available, Cowpat 4 would hardly have been quorate if Francis had not previously walked it with Alison. That walk, on Easter Monday, was in rain and mist, this one was largely in sunshine, but sunshine with very little warmth.

Biddulph Grange Country Park to the Staffordshire Way

We arrived at Biddulph Country Park a little after 9. The sign on the car park gate said it would be unlocked at 7am, the padlock suggested this might not be entirely true. I parked on the road outside.

The gates to the car park were firmly locked

We strolled north up the minor road, turning left where the attractive Mill House sits behind its large pond.

Francis passes Mill House

Ignoring the belligerent goose we turned down what was once, presumably, the mill race. We should have been in the field above, but it was a very pretty path down a steep dingle lined with bluebells.

It may have been pretty, but the path was also muddy, slippery and, occasionally, steep. With my camera in one hand and sunglasses in the other, I descended a particularly precipitous section which seemed to offer four natural steps. The lowest looked like a stone, but had the properties of ice and promptly dumped me in the mud on my backside. My initial attempt at standing was abandoned when I discovered my left hand was lodged on a thistle, but eventually I made it and continued down the path.

A pretty path down a steep dingle...

100m further on I realised I no longer had my sunglasses. I am quite attached to them - they are ‘genuine’ Ray-bans and cost me 120,000 Dong (see Ray-bans in Heathrow and Saigon) – so I retraced my steps. I could not find them at first but after re-climbing the ‘natural steps’ I spotted them in the mud at the bottom. Descending, I again slipped on the bottom step and again crashed onto my arse. This time I avoided the thistle, picked up my glasses and then myself and walked on, bloodied but unbowed. My glasses, on the other hand, were muddied and a little bowed, but I soon straightened them up.

A muddy and slippery path beside the mill race

We climbed the bank onto the correct field path which gave us a view of the remains of Biddulph Old Hall.

Biddulph Old Hall hides in the trees

Descending to the A527, we crossed it and climbed the steps onto the disused railway that runs north from Kidsgrove.

Down to the A527

Following the Staffordshire Way to The Summit of the Cloud

From here to Rushton Spencer we would be on the Staffordshire Way. We walked the entire 93 miles of the Staffordshire Way in 2005/6, and one day, when I have nothing more pressing to blog about, I will post some photos. [That day came during the second Covid lockdown March/April 2021. I posted a 7-part blog of the walk, which starts here.]

Along the disused railway

After a kilometre on the railway, despite being on the Staffordshire Way, we entered Cheshire. The disused railway is not very interesting, but it is flat and has a good surface for walking, so it was another quick kilometre before we turned off towards The Cloud.

Field paths to The Cloud

We approached the hill across field paths and through the Timbersbrook picnic site – devoid of picnickers in the May chill. The ascent starts through a wood on a path with a lot of high steps. This emerges onto a more gently graded bridleway, which we followed briefly before turning up a steeper path with some fine views over the Cheshire Plain, the giant telescope of Jodrell Bank right in the middle of it.

Leaving the bridle way for a steeper path, The Cloud

Continuing with a more gentle climb through Cloud plantation….

Through Cloud Plantation

…we emerged onto the heather covered back of The Cloud’s gritstone cap.

The heather covered gritstone cap, The Cloud

At 343m The Cloud is hardly one of the world’s great mountains, are even a mountain at all, but it does provide some fine views over Rudyard Lake to the south west, the Dane Valley to the west and the Cheshire Plain to the north.

Looking west over the valley of the River Dane

It also has a spot where you can get out of the breeze and drink your coffee.

Coffee stop on The Cloud

The first time I climbed The Cloud, some 15 years ago, I was on my own and I had the whole hill to myself. That same day, 50 people reached the summit of Mount Everest. Sometimes you do not have to go as far as you think to avoid the crowds.

From The Cloud to Rushton Spencer

The Cheshire/Staffordshire boundary runs across the summit of The Cloud. We descended into Staffordshire over field paths, sometimes straight down the field, ….

Descending The Cloud: Straight down a field

…and sometimes across them, offering plenty of opportunities to turn an ankle…

Descending The Cloud: Across a field

… but also some views back to The Cloud.

Looking back at The Cloud

Eventually the path drops into the deep ravine of Ravenscloud Brook, another pretty path among bluebells, but less muddy and slippery.

Bluebells by Ravenscloud Brook

I heard a bird which I took to be a buzzard, but Mike clearly saw an owl sail overhead. By the time Francis and I looked up it had settled in a tree and disappeared.

Mike looks for his owl by Ravenscloud Brook

The brook meets the River Dane, which we followed briefly before joining the second disused railway of the morning….

Approaching our second disused railway of the morning

…though this one was not so pleasant underfoot.

A stonier disused railway

Lunch at The Knot, Rushton Spencer

We soon reached the Knot Inn in Rushton Spencer where a couple of pints of Timothy Taylor’s ‘Landlord’ washed down my excellent turkey and leek pie. The ‘Landlord’ ran out so Mike and Francis had to switch to Adnam’s ‘Broadside’ - no great hardship.

The Knot Inn, Rushton Spencer

From Rushton Spencer back to Biddulph

After lunch we continued a few hundred metres down the railway then forsook the Staffordshire Way and turned west, back towards Biddulph.

After spending the morning climbing to 343m and then descending right down to 159m, the afternoon involved climbing back up to 322m; no wonder my legs were sore the next day.

A short ascent west of Rushton Spencer, was followed by a brief descent and then another climb up to what is described on the map as a ‘cross’, but is actually a large graveyard, still in use, beside what looks like an isolated chapel.

St Lawrence, Rushton Spencer

The 'Chapel in the Wilderness', as it was once called is a medieval wood-frame building rebuilt in sandstone in the 18th century. Until the 19th century Rushton Spencer and surrounding villages formed the 'chapelry of Rushton', the parish church being 5 miles away in Leek. In 1865 it became a parish in its own right and the Chapel in the Wilderness became Ruston Spencer's Parish Church of St Lawrence.

As a parish church it was much closer than Leek,  but it is still far enough away to give a good view back over Rushton Spencer to the hills on the western edge of the Peak District which will feature in Cowpat 5 (Shutlingsloe and Danebridge).

Looking back over Rushton Spencer

We climbed up to Beat Lane, crossed it and then headed down Dingle Lane, the irritating sharp drop to cross Dingle Brook merely increasing the forthcoming climb.

Unlike The Cloud, the grassy bank now separating us from Biddulph had no summit and no pretension about being a mountain; it did not even have a name though the top is only 20m lower than The Cloud. A hard slog through the long grass of the lower slope brought us onto a plateau, after which a slight turn westwards started the second part of the ascent. Trudging upwards without looking at the map I got it into my head that Oxhay Farm was the top of the hill. When we passed the farm buildings I was less than delighted to discover they had been hiding a further 50 m of climbing.

Through the long grass of the lower slopes

Once at the top, we followed the minor road along the ridge for a few hundred metres before again turning west with the knowledge that it was all downhill from here.

Mike negotiates a thin style near Oxhay Farm

Some of the field paths were very wet, others were churned by cattle and some were both, but generally it was fairly easy going. At one farm we followed the diverted path around the buildings, crossing the drive just as the owner drove down it in his Ferrari. We probably stared a little - the upland farmer’s usual vehicle of choice is a battered Land Rover.

The driver stopped and politely enquired if we knew where we were and where we were going. We assured him we did. He may have been concerned for our welfare, but more likely he was checking that we were what we seemed to be (and indeed we were) and not thieves intent on sharing his undoubted wealth. Reassured, he drove off. The Ferrari swiftly disappeared from view, but lingered rather longer on the ear.

Further down, we passed the rocky outcrop by Troughstone Farm and Francis chose exactly the right moment to turn left, though the crossing path was unmarked. Earlier he had protested that accurate navigating and Adnam’s Broadside do not mix - he had underrated himself.

Rocky outcrop above Troughstone Farm

We continued working our way downwards via a minor road and more field paths until eventually a muddy sunken lane brought us out on another minor road. A final field path brought us back to the road up to Biddulph Country Park.

A muddy sunken lane

By now the gates had been unlocked and the car park was three quarters full. My car looked lonely and out of place on the road outside.

Approx distance: 18 km