Thursday, 8 April 2021

Staffordshire Way: Day 5 Cannock Chase, Penkridge and Lapley

Like the Barcelona posts, this post and its companions are a Covid lockdown project. The walk actually took place in 2005/6.

For an introduction to the Staffordshire Way, see Day 1.

Day 5 Saturday 18/03/2006

Over Cannock Chase, Down to Penkridge and Across the Flat Farmland of South Staffs

Participants: Francis, Mike, Alison C, Brian & Myself

Staffordshire

After the very flat fourth day, the contours and variety of Cannock Chase were a welcome relief. Section 3: The Eastern Valleys and Cannock Chase, starts at some apparently randomly chosen point on the Chase. After a visit to the Glacial Boulder (hardly worth its capital letters) the path took us to Bednall and then across parkland and along a canal to Penkridge. From Penkridge to Lapley is more flat farmland, rather like Day 4.

Section 3: Parkland Staffordshire and the Southern Uplands

Across Cannock Chase

Having finished Day 4 at a car park on the A513 a couple of hundred metres from the entrance to Shugborough, we had to continue along the main road to access the Chase at the Punchbowl.

We took the silver birch lined path…

Onto the Chase between the silver birches

… that rounds the western side of Harts Hill and swings left toward the Sherbrook Valley.

Into the Sherbrook Valley

The Sherbrook Valley

This is familiar territory to anyone who has seen any of the Fish and Chip Walk posts (link is to the 2020 version of this venerable institution) – and even more so to those who walked them. Also familiar is a stop to peer upwards into a tree. Francis and Brian raised binoculars that cost as much as a small car (probably an exaggeration), Mike had a less expensive pair and Alison seemed more interested in who was following us – nobody as it turned out. The object of all this interest was a small flock of siskins.

Looking for siskins

Reaching the Sher Brook at the stepping stones we did not cross, but walked along the south side of the brook for some 1500m…

Along the Sher Brook

…then we turned west straight up the valley side, stopping at the top just long enough for Francis to pose…

Francis poses after walking up from the valley

The Glacial Boulder

..and made our way to the Glacial Boulder. Though hardly huge, it is the largest of several erratic boulders on the Chase and was carried here by a glacier – probably from the Dumfries area – some 20,000 years ago. In the 1950s it is was placed on a plinth constructed from the river-rounded Bunter Sandstone cobbles that underlie most of the Chase, though the concrete base dates from the First World War. It has featured in several of the Annual Fish and Chip Walk, most notably in 2015.

The Glacial Boulder

The Staffordshire Way shares the approach to the Glacial Boulder with the Heart of England Way, a 100-mile route running north-south down the middle (or ‘Heart’ if you prefer) of England from Milford on the northern edge of Cannock Chase to Bourton-on-the-Water in the Cotswolds. We now continued west while the HoEW went south.

To Bednall and Penkridge

Bednall

Getting off the Chase from here is easy, as long as you don’t mess with the Oldacre Valley where reality and the OS map have different footpaths. The Staffordshire Way fortunately rounds the head of the shallow valley and takes you straight down to Camp Road from where a dead straight farm track leads to the A34. Having survived crossing the main road, a minor road and then a field path led us into Richfield Lane and thence into Bednall.

Down Richfield Lane into Bednall

There is not a lot to Bednall. The 19th century church is a bit too recent to be interesting, but the churchyard had a couple of benches where we could perch for coffee.

Coffee in a bench in Bednall churchyard

I cannot remember who borrowed my camera to take the picture above, but I think Brian is trying to turn them to stone. The chap on the other end of the bench looks a pleasant, smiley cove, if a little bewildered. No , he's just a grumpy old man - Lynne (long suffering wife and proof-reader.)

Being Spring there was a nice patch of crocuses in the churchyard.

Crocuses, Bednall churchyard

Teddesley Park

The 3.5km from Bednall to the Staffordshire and Worcestershire canal took us across Teddesley Park. Teddesley Hall was built in the early 1750s by Sir Edward Littleton, the 4th Baronet Littleton. He died in 1812 and was succeeded by his great-nephew who became the first Baron Hatherton in 1835. He drained and developed the land around the house creating a farm of some 1700 acres with 700 acres under cultivation and grazing for 200 cattle and 2000 sheep.

The Hall ceased to be the Hatherton’s family home after the death of the 3rd Baron in 1930. After World War II, when the house was requisitioned for billeting troops, it remained empty and decaying until the 5th Baron sold the estate in 1954 and the hall was demolished. I have no idea who owns the land now, but it is a big expanse of farmland to walk across.

Across Teddesley Park

The Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal

We reached the Staffordshire and Worcestershire canal at Parkgate lock.

Parkgate lock, Staffs and Worcs canal

The 46-mile-long Staffs and Worcs canal, like every other canal on the Staffordshire Way (so far) is the work of James Brindley. Completed in 1771, it branches off from the Trent and Mersey canal within sight of where we veered off to the Essex Bridge towards the end of Day 4. After rounding the north of Cannock Chase it heads south and west to join the River Severn at Stourport.

Following the tow path for a little over 2km, we passed under the M6 then entered Penkridge.

Entering Penkridge on the Staffs and Worcs canal

Penkridge

The Boat Inn, where we left the canal-side seemed the perfect place to pause for a sandwich and a glass of lunch.

The Boat, Penridge

Penkridge is a well-connected little town. The M6 runs down its eastern flank (though there is no local junction), the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal runs through the centre, the main west coast railway line runs down the western edge (there is a station) and the River Penk runs in the same general direction though by a somewhat less direct route.

After lunch we walked through the town, over the Penk, under the railway viaduct and westwards into the countryside along Preston Vale Lane.

Walking through Penkridge

Obviously Penkridge derives its name from its situation on a ridge beside the River Penk – only it doesn’t, the river probably derives its name from the town. There is good evidence for the early settlement having the Celtic name of Penn-crug, meaning the head (or end) of the ridge or chief hill or mound, the name predating the Romans who called their local fort Pennocrucium. There is not much of a ridge, either, so the name is thought to refer to a once prominent tumulus near the earliest settlement a little south of the modern town. Several millennia of ploughing have flattened the tumulus and there is now nothing for the casual observer to see.

Penkridge to Lapley

In the fields outside Penkridge my eye was caught by a young goat….

Cute kid, Penkridge

…and in the same field, scrabbling round happily among a mixed flock of sheep and goats was an emu. I had never seen one outside a zoo before, but they are tolerant of our weather (more than I am!) and a small group are actively promoting emu farming on a national scale. For all their efforts emus seem as rare now as in 2006 – but amazingly this was not the last we would see on the Staffordshire Way.

The Penkridge Emu

Preston Vale Lane ends after two kilometres at the eponymous farm, where a right and a left alongside a stand of willows…

Willows, Preston Vale

…put us in a long straight, rather tedious farm track.

It's a long way to Mitton

This led to a minor road which took us to Mitton. We seemed to have been approaching Mitton for a long time, but when we got there, this is all there is.

Mitton

Mitton’s Victorian Manor House was a few hundred metres off our route. The garden is open occasionally as part of the National Gardens Scheme, the rest of the time the house is available for weddings and other functions.

Continuing south on field paths we reached a patch of wooded wetland where we crossed Whiston Brook. The Staffordshire Way Guide (1996 edition) refers to this area as Bickford Nature Reserve, but I can find no other evidence for the existence of such a reserve.

Crossing Whiston Brook near Bickford

From here we followed Whiston Brook westwards for a kilometre, then turned south across more field paths for the final kilometre to Lapley, the tower of the village’s Norman church providing a useful landmark. As we had earlier parked a car outside the church this was the end of Day 5.

Approaching Lapley and the end of the day's walk

Today's distance: 21km
Total distance completed: 109km

Staffordshire Way - the first 5 days

The Staffordshire Way

Thursday, 1 April 2021

Staffordshire Way: Day 4 Uttoxeter to Shugborough

Like the Barcelona posts, this is and its companions are a Covid lockdown project. The walk actually took place in 2005/6.

For an introduction to the Staffordshire Way, see Day 1.

Day 4 Saturday 25/02/2006

Across Farmland and Parkland to a Stately Home on the Edge of Cannock Chase

Participants: Francis, Mike, Alison C & Myself

Staffordshire

On a very flat fourth day we all but reached the end of the shorter Section 2: The Eastern Valleys and Cannock Chase. We started in Uttoxeter on as good a February day as could be reasonably expected and walked south over flat farmland to the Bagot Estate. Beyond the Estate more field paths took us to a lunch stop in Abbots Bromley. Continuing south past the dam of Blithfield Reservoir, through Stockwell Heath and Colton we reached the Trent and Mersey Canal. We followed the canal to the Essex Bridge, crossed the Shugborough Estate and finished in one of the Cannock Chase car parks.

The Staffordshire Way Part 2, Uttoxeter to Cannock Chase

Uttoxeter to the Bagot Estate

Day 4 started from the very same crack in the Uttoxeter pavement as Day 3 finished. Of course it did.

Boots on in Uttoxeter while Francis checks the cracks in the pavement, ensuring this is the right spot

A stroll through Uttoxeter’s southern residential districts took us to field paths and a muddy track to Field Head Farm.

A muddy track to Field Head Farm

There was little of interest beyond a welcome touch of blue in the sky and the skeletons of winter trees.

Another 250m brought us to Timber Lane which starts as a residential road in Uttoxeter but becomes a green lane once it has left the town. There must be some history to a lane like this, but the internet doesn’t know or won’t tell. It heads towards the once huge Needwood Forest, so that may be a clue, or maybe not.

Timber Lane, near Uttoxeter

Timber lane ends at a minor road which we crossed and returned to field paths. Not all the stiles were in good repair so Mike was able to demonstrate his hurdling technique.

A broken stile, elegantly dealt with

For the best part of 3km we crossed scruffy winter meadows and a couple of minor roads…

Scruffy winter meadows between Uttoxeter and Abbots Bromley

…before reaching Hobb Lane. Another interesting name, it might refer to a hobgoblin (how prevalent they are locally is a matter of debate), or to someone called ‘Robert’ or have another derivation entirely..

Hobb Lane

We hardly walked 100m of Hobb Lane before taking a track down to Bagot’s Park where we paused for coffee near the entrance. Nice to see Alison looking happy, but why are Francis and Mike so miserable?

Coffee on the edge of Bagot Park

According to the Staffordshire Way Guide (pub 1996) the 815 acre park is divided in 100 acre blocks farmed on a eight year rotation. Six years of winter cereals, oil seed rape and beans followed by two years ley of grassland. The grass supports a flock of 700 ewes with lambs. With no sheep in sight, Bagot’s Park in winter looked a desolate place.


Bagot Park's, looking a little desolate

The guide also says that 150 years ago the park employed 40 men permanently and another 50 seasonal workers, mainly women while in 2006 the work was done by a manager, a shepherd and two tractor operators.

We dutifully followed the well-signed public footpath which traverses a small copse. In the 13th century the royal Needwood Forest stretched from Abbots Bromley to Burton. Bagot Forest - a section of which can be seen straight ahead - is its largest remaining block of woodland.

Copse on Bagot Park with a Bagot Wood on the skyline

The path zigs and zags and then turns sharp left to follow the Story Brook.

Silver Birch by Story Brook, Bagot's Park

Abbots Bromley

Once out of the park, more field paths now over very gently rolling countryside, took us into Abbots Bromley.

From Bagot's Park to Abbots Bromley

The village is the population centre of a civil parish of just under 2,000 people. First appearing in a written record in 942, it became the property of Burton Abbey on the death of Wulfric, Earl of Mercia in 1010ish. His will (dated 1004) recording gifts of land to the Abbey is held in the Staffordshire County Records Office. A facsimile on Staffordshire Past Track is easily readable – for those who can read hand-written medieval Latin (so not me, and probably not you either).

The village remained in the hands of the abbey until the Dissolution when Henry VIII gave the land to the Paget family and it became Paget’s Bromley. Well before the interesting demise of the Staffordshire Pagets (see the 2018 post Cannock Chase, Venturing Further East) the village reverted to its previous name. (my use of apostrophes – omitted from Abbotts, included in Paget’s and Bagot’s Park – follows that of the OS maps.)

Abbots Bromley has a remarkable 60 listed buildings, but the one that interested us was the 16th century Goats Head Inn. Formerly the Town Hall (maybe) and a schoolhouse, but now, very definitely a pub.

The Goats Head, Abbots Bromley (no apostrophes anywhere)

Where we refreshed ourselves with the same joy as at our coffee break.

Did I forget to say 'smile for the camera?' again

To show I am not a Philistine, here is a listed building that does not sell beer (though it is opposite the pub). Croft’s House is mid-18th century and so exciting that even the ‘forecourt wall and railings’ are listed. It is pleasing, but I find what British Listed Buildings calls the five blind openings, those to right, left and centre containing painted stone balusters a bit of a cheat.

Croft's House, Abbots Bromley (one apostrophe!)

Abbots Bromley to the Trent and Mersey Canal

South of Abbots Bromley we descended into the valley of the River Blithe. It is not a big descent, but then it is not a big river, flowing for 29km from the hills east of Stoke-on-Trent to the River Trent some 5km south of where we were about to cross it.

In defiance of the apparent topography, a dam built in the early 1950s created the largest body of water in Staffordshire, admittedly not a county renowned for its lakes. Blithfield Reservoir covers just over 300ha, but if the Churnet can have a Rhineland, Blithfield is Lake Constance. It provides drinking water for most of South Staffordshire.

Blithfield Reservoir

Our path took us below the dam…

Below the dam, Blithfield Reservoir

…and up the other side of the shallow valley where, for a brief but welcome moment the currant bun broke through the clouds and shone with all the warmth a February sun can muster.

A brief attack of sunshine

Just over the top of the gentle rise is Stockwell Heath, a village so small it has no Wikipedia entry, which has, perhaps, become the definition of a hamlet.

Stockwell Heath.I took a rather dull photo in 2006, this one comes from a walk on a fine January day in 2010

Nearby Colton, with 671 citizens (2011 census) and an overlong Wikipedia entry, is by comparison a megalopolis. An elongated J-shaped linear village, we walked parallel to the upstroke for what fell like ages – a dull slog towards the distant hump of Cannock Chase.

Round Colton, heading for Cannock Chase

Fortunately, a local resident assisted Francis with the map reading, so we reached and crossed the village on the hook of the J just where we intended.

Francis is grateful for the map-reading advice

From Colton we completed the almost imperceptible descent into the wide Trent valley and crossed the Trent and Mersey Canal. Construction of the 150km long canal was authorised by Act of Parliament in 1766 and the first sod was cut by Josiah Wedgwood in the same year. Canal transport would, he calculated, result in many fewer breakages to his pottery than haulage over the rough roads of the age. The work was completed in 10 years with James Brindley as chief engineer. It connects with the Mersey via the Bridgewater Canal and enters the Trent at Derwent Mouth on the Derbyshire/Leicestershire boundary.

The Trent and Mersey Canal

Alongside the Trent and Mersey Canal to Shugborough

We turned north east and followed the tow path for almost 6km towards Stafford...

Approaching Colwich on the Trent and Mersey Canal.

…. passing Colwich and its lock. Although envisaged as part of Brindley’s ‘Grand Cross’ linking all four of England’s major rivers, for most of its length the Trent and Mersey was built with locks capable of accommodating only one narrow boat at a time.

Colwich Lock, Trent and Mersey Canal, photo from a walk in January 2011

The Essex Bridge

We left the canal at Shugborough, walked the short distance to the River Trent which had been shadowing the canal all the way (or vice versa), and crossed it on the Essex Bridge, pausing for a breather in the middle.

Mike, Francis and Alison take a breather on the Essex bridge

The Essex Bridge was built as a packhorse bridge in the late 16th century by the Earl of Essex who held Chartley Castle, some 6km to the north, which seems a long way from Essex. Only 14 of the original 40 spans remain but that still makes it the longest extant packhorse bridge in England.

Just above the bridge is the confluence of the River Sow (left) the river that flows through Stafford, and the Trent, the third longest river in England, but here looking small than the Sow.

The confluence of the Rivers Sow and Trent, photo Jan 2010

Shugborough

The bridge gives access to the Shugborough Estate. Owned by the Bishops of Lichfield until the Dissolution of the Monasteries it was purchased in 1624 by a lawyer called William Anson. The original manor house was demolished by Anson’s grandson (also called William) who then built the central part of the current house. His son Thomas, added the flanking pavilions.

Shugborough Hall

The family worked their way steadily up the ranks of the aristocracy, becoming Barons, then Viscounts and in 1831 Thomas Anson was created Earl of Lichfield. The Anson’s hung on to the house until the death of the 4th Earl in 1960, when it was donated to the National Trust in lieu of death duties. The 5th Earl, the photographer Patrick Lichfield, retained an apartment until his death in 2005.

The public footbath goes past the house and up what feels, at the end of a long day’s walk, a ludicrously extended drive – it is over a kilometre from the house to the main road. Once we had reached the A513, 500m along the main road brought us to one of the many car parks lining the perimeter of Cannock Chase. Having thoughtfully left a car there earlier, that was the end of Day 4.

Today's distance: 27km, a long day but flat and easy walking
Total distance completed: 88km

The Staffordshire Way, Day 4

The Staffordshire Way