South East Asia

This page remains a work in progress, but outline details are now available for most posts.

Our trips to South East Asia have been some of the most enjoyable we have made. Although the people are almost universally welcoming and smile readily, some of the countries have been convulsed by war, even genocide, within our life times. All are now largely peaceful and very pleasant places to visit.

This page covers our visits to Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam. Starting with our most recent trip to the region and working backwards.

The Malay Peninsula (2017)

Malaysia

1

Malacca (or Melaka)

Malacca

26/02/17

Arrival in Malaysia, Malacca Intro, Heeren Street, Jonker Walk and Durians, Jalan Tukang Emas, Temples and Mosque side by side, Baba-Nonya culture, Dutch Square, the former Church of St Paul, One of the Graves of St Francis Xavier. A Famosa, Memorial to Malayan independence, Regrettable Nonya lunch, the Melaka River and a better dinner

2

Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur

27 and 28/02/17



27th  Lunch at Bukit Bintang, Jalan Alor Chinese food stalls. 28th Walking Tour: pulled tea, Independence Square, St Mary's Cathedral, Selangor Club, Sultan Abdul Samad Building Jamek Mosque, Taoist and Hindu Temples, Chinese Central Market. Petronas Towers

3

Batu Caves and North to the Cameron Highlands

Selangor

01/03/17

KL to the Batu Caves, Lord Murugan, 272 steps up to caves, macaques. Motorway towards Cameron Highlands, Lata Iskander (waterfall) and a huge spider. Into the Highlands, Ringlet, Bharat Tea Plantation. Strawberry Park Resort and the house from which Jim Thompson disappeared

4

Cameron Highlands, Rainforest Walk, BOH & Curry

Pahang

02/03/17

Despite the weather we take on the ‘Forest and Farm’ Walk. Jungle walk No 9 to Robinson Falls, Giant snail, spiny-backed orb-weaver spiders, Orang Asli. Descend to farms, Malaysian Cherry red centipede, BOH Tea at Sungai Palas Tea Garden, Mutton Varuval at Restoran Sri Brinchang, Tanah Rata. Walk round Tanah Rata.

5

From the Cameron Highlands to Kuala Kangsar and Georgetown

Perak

03/03/17

Leaving the Cameron Highlands, good views marred by too many polytunnels. Ipoh. Kuala Kangsar, ancient rubber tree, Perak River, Istana Kenangan, Ubudiah mosque. Malaysian postage stamps, and the elective monarchy. The bridge to Penang. George Town, 23 Love Lane. Dinner in the Red Garden Food Court.

6

George Town, Penang

Penang


04/03/17

Fort Cornwallis, Francis Light & the Sri Rambai Cannon. The Penang Peranakan Mansion. Samosas and a temple in Little India. Khoo Kangsi and other clan houses. The delights of Laksa and Cendol. Therevada Buddhist Temple. Hussein’s Nasi Kandar stall. Kek Lok Temple. Jubilee Clock Tower & Protestant cemetery. Dinner in the Red Garden Food Court.

7

Turtles, Monkeys and the Penang National Park

Penang

05/03/17

To the Penang National Park via Batu Ferringhi (Foreigner’s Rock). Walk across the national park to Kerachut Beach – rengas trees, hairy caterpillars, pitcher plants, millipedes, the meromictic lake, a tortoise and a tonkat ali tree. Turtles on Kerachut Beach. Boat to Monkey beach. Lunch and Monkey business. Back to Georgetown. Armenia Street and around. Dinner in the Red Garden Food Court.

8

Langkawi: A Tropical Paradise (for now)

Kedah

06/07/08

and

09/03/17

Penang-Langkawi Ferry, Frangipani Resort, beach and pool. Flora and fauna. Dinners at Indian, Chinese and Thai restaurants. Langkawi Cable Car and Sky Bridge, 3-D Art Museum. Journey Home

Petronas Twin Towers
The Batu Caves guarded by Lord Murugan
BOH Tea Plantation


Ubudiah Mosque, Kuala Kangsar
Laksa, Penang
Monkey business, Penang
Lamb dopiaza, spinach and sambar, Tulsi Garden, Langkawi

Thailand and Southern Laos (2015)

Having enjoyed northern Laos so much in 2014, the idea this time was to explore the south. It was easiest to start and finish in Bangkok, so we saw a good bit of Thailand, too.

1

Bangkok and the Train North

Thailand

06/11/2015

Arriving in Bangkok, A fine Red Curry. A train to Phitsanulok. Visit Wat Yai to see the renowned Phra Phuttha Chinnarat Buddha. Drive to Sukhothai. Dinner in Old Sukhothai.

2

Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai

Thailand

07/11/2015

To Ban Na Ton Chan Village to see handicrafts and join in the festival for the end of the rainy season. Meeting the oldest resident. To Si Satchanalai to see ruins of the ancient city. To Sukhothai for lunch then National Museum and historical park. A controversial dinner in Sukhothai

3

Across Isan to the Lao Border

Thailand

08 &

09/11/2015

08/11 From Sukhothai back through Phitsanulok and east into Phetchabun Province, Wat Pha Sorn Kaew (The Temple on a Glass Cliff). Sweet Tamarinds. A brief trip into the highlands: Strawberries and camp sites for those who like the cold. Lunch - Isan's fiery cuisine. Dan Sai, Wat Neramit Wipattasana and Phra That Si Song Rak (The Stupa in Honour of Two Loves). Eco Lodge and arson at dinner. 09/11 Through Loei and, Udon Thani to the Friendship Bridge

4

Return to Vientiane, Cooking and Eating

Laos

09 & 10/11/2015

Over the Friendship Bridge to Laos. Reacquainting ourselves with Vientiane: noodles pastis and a barbecued fish. Cooking with Nook, Market, coffee, lesson and lunch. An over-vigorous massage. Tuk-tuk safari with no tuk-tuk. Vientiane night market (grubs and grasshoppers). Finding the right restaurant for dinner.

5

Heading South from Vientiane

Laos

11/11/2015

South down Route 13. Pause at Wat Phabat Phonsan with its massive ‘footprint’ of the Buddha. On to Paksan, stop for coffee. Ban Ton Mae Market. Turn east into the mountains. Bomb boats on the Kadding River. Minor roads to Sala Hin Boun in deepest countryside.

6

Kong Lor Cave and a Minor Disaster

Laos

12/11/2015

Auberge Sala Hin Boun. To mouth of Kong Lor Cave, and underground river. Boat along the river, stalactites and other reasons to disembark. Falling in the river. Exit cave for reflection and recovery. Phim makes lunch in a borrowed wok.Walk to a remote rural village. Return through cave.

7

Thakhek, a French Colonial Delight

Laos

13/11/2015

From Sala Hin Boun back to Route 13 and south towards Thakhek (Tha Kaek). Detour to the Tham Pha Buddhist Cave. Lunch in Thakhek (Tha Kaek). Walking and shopping to replace broken sandals. Pastis and an evening meal.

8

South Past Savannakhet and East to Tad Lo

Laos

14/11/2015

South on Route 13. Stalls selling fish or salt. The Natuay Salt Factory. Towards Savannakhet (aka Kaysone Phomvihane). Diversion to That Ing Hang and some folk tales. Turn east towards the Bolaven Plateau. Lunch and rice whiskey. Tad Lo hotel and waterfall. Bathing elephants.

9

Around the Bolaven Plateau

Laos

15/11/2015

A not entirely successful early morning walk. A much more successful elephant ride. The Bolaven plateau’s ethnic minorities: visiting the Katu people, then a very different visit to an Alak village. A substantial market on an isolated crossroads. Lunch at the Sinouk coffee estate and resort. Tad Fan waterfall. Back into the Mekong valley and south to Si Phan Don (4,000 Islands)

10

Si Phan Don (4,000 Islands)

Laos

16/11/2015

Dawn at Muang Khong, By boat to Don Khon Island. Across the island by motorcycle taxi. Freshwater dolphins, Taxi to Somphamit Falls. The French Mekong expedition of 1866 and Laos’ first (and so far only) railway. Lunch at Ban Khon. To the east bank of the river and the Khon Papheng Falls. North to Houei Tomo and,Oup Mong. A small ferry across to Champsak.

11

Laos
Thailand

17 

 &

18/11/2015

Wat Phou UNESCO World Heritage Site, a 5th century Hindu temple that came under Khmer rule. Most surviving building are 11th century Khmer. Temple became Buddhist along with the rest of the Khmer Empire and is still an active Buddhist shrine. The Royal Rd. Pleasant idling round Champasak, not so long ago the capital of a small kingdom, now a village beside the Mekong. Drive into Thailand and take train from Ubon Ratchathani to Ayutthaya

12

Ayutthaya, Another Minor Disaster and the King and I

Thailand

19/11/2015

Leave train at Ayutthaya, a former Thai capital. Tour in a Kermit tuk-tuk; Buddhas, chedi’s, temples and roosters. Sugar rotis and circumnavigation of the city centre by river and canal. Lunch. A final temple, an accident and a trip to hospital. On to Bang Pa-In, a former royal residence connected with the reality that became the confection of 'The King and I.' Drive to Kanchanaburi.

13

Kanchanaburi, the Bridge on the River Kwai and Hellfire Pass

Thailand

20/11/2015

Kanchanaburi, The Death Railway Museum & Cemetery, ‘The Railway Man’, The Bridge on the River Kwai, the film and the reality. North to Hellfire Pass. Back south on the railway.

14

Following the Mae Klong to Samut Songkhram and the Gulf of Thailand

Thailand

21/11/2015

South along the Mae Klong, Tha Kha floating market, a boat trip and a domestic visit, Rama II Memorial Park and Museum. Bang Kung Camp and Bang Kung Wat, a small temple almost completely overgrown by a banyan tree. An excellent squid lunch beside the Mae Klong. The original Siamese twins. Samut Songkhram’s railway market.

15

Cha Am and the Thais Way of Beach

Thailand

21 to 23/11/2015

Ch Am and an almost finished hotel, Thai beaches and the way they work. Idle days. Going Home and the de-icing crew


Celebrating the end of the rainy season,
 Ban Na Ton Chan
The life of the Buddha,
Wat Pha Sorn Kaew


Lynne and a bag of grasshoppers'
 Night market, Vientiane
Bomb Boats,
Kadding River
Phim makes lunch in a borrowed wok
Monks gather as dusk falls, Tad Lo
Alak Medicine hall, Bolaven Plateau
Motorcycle taxi, Ban Khon
The Royal Road, Wat Phou
 Wat Phra Mahathat, Ayutthaya
Hellfire Pass, Burma Railway
Tha Kha market, Samut Songkhram
Lounging on the beach, Cha Am beach

Bangkok (2012)

On our way back from Myanmar in 2012 we  stopped off in Bangkok for a 'city break'. These posts are a little out of chronological order, but appropriate to introduce here.

1

Bangkok’s Old Royal Centre

Thailand

25 & 26/11/2012

Arriving in Bangkok from Yangon. Skytrain from the Airport, Size and price of accommodation compared with Hong Kong. Skytrain to river and waterbus on the River of Kings. Wat Pho Temple, the huge reclining Buddha, (many) more Buddha images and stupas. Lunch. Royal Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, The Emerald Buddha. Back to our hotel. Bangkok’s famous street food: Rain stopped play.

2

Jim Thompson’s House and Other Shrines

Thailand

27/11/2012

The story of  Jim Thompson, his house, his collection and mysterious disappearance. Using the Khlong Taxi. The Nai Lert Fertility Shrine. The Erawan Shrine, Lunch and shopping at the MBK Centre. Learning about licensing laws and failing to find information on the King of Thailand. Bangkok’s famous street food: Success.


Wat Pho Reclining Buddha, Bangkok
A 'Khlong Taxi', Bangkok









Following the Mekong Through Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos (2014)

1

Return to Saigon, Cookery and Music

Vietnam

11

&

12/02/2014

Obtaining new passport photos. Dinner with Phong, the organiser of our journey. The Banh Tanh Market with Chef Mai then to the Mai Home Kitchen to cook and eat lunch. The Truc Mai Music House and a performance on traditional instruments. Walk down Dong Khoi (formerly the Rue Catinat). Dinner at Pho24

2

Through the Mekong Delta by Sampan

Vietnam

13

&

14/02/2014

From Ho Chi Minh city to the Mekong delta and our Sampan. A walk round Phu An, a typical delta hamlet. Upstream to An Huu and a walk through the market. Night Mooring Dinner. Dawn on the Mekong, Sa Dec, Marguerite , Duras, The Lover and the ‘Ancient' Chinese House, Fruit in the market. Upstream pass rice wotks and brick kilns to Chau Moi. Tiger Island and a tussle with water hyacinth. Further upstream to a night mooring near Chau Doc.

3

Chau Doc

Vietnam

15/02/2014

Arriving at Chau Doc by sampan past fish farms and a floating market. Victoria Hotel, and differing views about western Food. Fish Farm, Basa, Chau Giang village and the impoverished Cham community. A hot pot dinner

4

Phnom Penh (1) Royal Palaces and Museums

Vietnam

Cambodia

16/02/2014

The Victoria Speedboat from Chau Doc. Crossing the Vietnam/Cambodia border. Reaching Phnom Penh and lunch at the Bompha Restaurant. The Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda. The National Museum. Romdeng Restaurant training street children for a career in hospitality.

5

Phnom Penh (2) Killing Fields and Torture Chambers

Cambodia

17/02/2014

Cambodia in the 1970s, how the Khmer Rouge came to power and ‘rationale’ for what they did. Drive out to the Choeung Ek Killing Field. Return to city and the ‘Russian’ Market for light relief. Tuol Sleng Prison. Bou Meng, one of the 7 survivors, Comrade Duch the camp commander. Sex tourism. Lunch and a walk down Norodom Boulevard. A beer and a look at Cambodia’s unusual currency arrangements.

6

Across Cambodia to Siem Reap

Cambodia

18/02/2014

Phnom Penh to Skune famed for fried tarantulas. To Kompong Thom, edible insects in the market but lunch without. Ruins of Sambor Prei Kuk, the forerunner of the Angkor civilisation. Alternative view of Pol Pot. The medieval Spean Praptos Bridge.

7

Siem Reap (1) Angkor Wat

Cambodia

19/02/2014

Angkor and Khmer history. Explore Angkor Wat, carving of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk. Back to Siem Reap for Lunch. To Angkor Thom & Bayon Temple with its 4-faced towers. Climb Phom Bakheng to see sunset.

8

Siem Reap (2) Angkor Thom and Other Temples

Cambodia

20/12/2014

West Mebon temple formerly in a lake, Neak Pean (Entwined Serpents Temple), amputee band, Preah Khan. Angkor Thom, the Elephant Terrace, Baphuon, Phimeankas, Terrace of Leper King, Jungle Temple. Beef and red ants Diner

9

Siem Reap (3) Tonle Sap Lake

Cambodia

21 &

22/02/2014

21/02 Drive to Tonle Sap Lake. By boat down the creek to Chong Khneas floating village. Crocodile farm. Down the lake to another creek. Canoe through the mangroves. Drive to Roulos for lunch. The Roulos Group of Temples, Lolei, Bakong, and Preah Ko. Pub Street in Siem Reap. 22/02 A half-day wander round Siem Reap.

10

Luang Prabang (1) The Old Town

Laos


22 &

23/02/2014

22/03 Laos visa on arrival. The Lao kip. 23/03 Monks dawn begging. A doctor’s visit.  Lao History, Former Royal Palace, Wat Mei, Wat Xieng Thong. Luang Prabang sausages and meat salads. Climbing Mt Phousi,

11

Luang Prabang (2) Back on the Mekong

Laos


24/02/2014

Upstream from Luang Prabang on an overlarge boat. Ban Xang Hai village and rice ‘wiski’. Pak On, Buddha caves & lunch. Back downstream The Chitdara Villa

12

Luang Prabang (3) Elephants

Laos

25/02/2014

Another look at the begging monks, Luang Prabang. Drive out to elephant sanctuary. Riding an elephant ride. A pirogue upriver to see a baby elephant. Further upstream to the (dry) Tad So falls. A boulodrome, back to LP, Bamboo Footbridge over the Nam Khan. A foot massage.

13

Luang Prabang to Phonsavan

Laos

26/02/2014

The monks begging rin (video). Drive Luang Prabang to Phou Koun, World Vision pumps used in roadside villages. A convention of military top brass, Phou Koun. Phou Koun market and lunch with an armed guard. Up Highway 7 to Phonsavan. Hmong ethnic minority. Barbecued venison. Dinner in Phonsavan

13

Phonsavan, the Plain of Jars and UXO

Laos

27

&

28/02/2014

27/02 Former Royal Capital of Muang Khoun. War-damaged temple. Plain of Jars Site 1, an archaeological mystery. Mine clearance and bomb casings by the Phonsavan tourist office. 28/02 the work of the Mines Action Group (MAG), Bomb Harvest. Phonsavan Market. Xien Khoun Airport

15

Vientiane (1) Wats, Stupas and a Heavy Buddha

Laos

01/03/2014

Introducing Vientiane. Wat Si Sakhet, Vientane’s oldest building. Wat Pha Keo a home for the absent Emerald Buddha, That Luang the stupa at the heart of the city. Patouxai, the Arc de Triomphe. S’s story. Noodle lunch. The Black Stupa. The Heavy Buddha. Finding a beer garden. Dinner at the Belgian Beer Bar

16

Vientiane (2) A Buddha Park and a Fond Farewell

Laos

02

 &

03/03/2014

02/03 The BeerLao brewery. Making Khao Lam. Xieng Khuan’s eccentric Buddha Park. JCBs. Lunch in a family restaurant. Textile museum in a teak mansion, Beer lao Dark at the Belgian Beer Bar. A barbecue dinner. 03/03 A final day’s wandering. The President’s residence. King Anouvong. Lunch at Makphet Restaurant, training street children (like Romdeng in Phnom Penh).


How not to play a monochord, Ho Chi Minh City
Sunrise over the Mekong delta
Topiary teapot, Silver Pagoda, Phnom Penh
Spean Praptos Bridge
Stone faces, Bayon temple
Ta Prohm, the 'Jungle Temple'
The Sim, Wat Xieng Thong, Luang Prabang
A tiny portion of the Plain of Jars
At the Xieng Khuan Buddha Park, nr Vientiane

Cambodia and/or Laos

are also labelled in the following, which link back to the Mekong posts above

A Collection of Arches de Triomphe (None of them in Paris) Part 2, Post-1900

20/08/2020

My collection of arches includes:The Independence Monument in Phnom Penh, Cambodia,
&
Patouxi in Vientiane, Laos

Lost and Forgotten - Things Big and Little that Disappeared for Centuries

27/02/2020

The whole of the Angkor complex, including Angkor Wat form Cambodia’s contribution to this post – a round-up of things that were lost and now are found.
The ruins of Houei Tomo, once a waystation for pilgrims going to Wat Pho near Champasak.in Laos are also featured.

The Churning of the Ocean of Milk

19/01/2017

Angkor Wat supplied the first of my collection of illustrations (carvings, paintings and sculptures) of this tale from the Mahabharata.
We found a later and cruder ‘Churning’ in the
Buddha Park near Vientiane, Laos

The Story of the Emerald Buddha

31/03/2013

The Emerald Buddha has been in Bangkok (see above) since 1784, but the story of how it arrived there is long and starts in mythology.
A space is reserved for it in the
Silver Pagoda in Phnom Penh, should it ever return there.
It also spent time in Luang Prabang and Vientiane where Wat Pha Keo is ready to welcome its return


 Myanmar (2012)
Myanmar

1

Arriving in Yangon (or is that Rangoon?), the former capital of Burma (or should that be Myanmar?)

13/11/2012

Burma or Myanmar, Rangoon or Yangon. Local driving. Aung San Suu Kyi. Myanmar has no ATMs but the moneychanger was unavailable. Subbed by our guide. Dragon Fruit. A nap.An expedition down Shwedagon Pagoda Rd to find beer. Another nap. Shan noodles for dinner.

2

Yangon, A Reclining Buddha and the Shwedagon Pagoda

14/11/2012

Bogyoke Aung San (Scott's) Mrkt, Lunghi, Kandawgyi Lake, Chaukhtatgyi Reclining Buddha, National museum, Tea shop, Shwedagon Pagoda,

3

Across the Yangon River to Dala

15/11/2012

Pansodan Ferry to Dala, Trishaws, markets, Moe Goak monastery, orphans of Cyclone Nargis, abbot, Shwe Sayan Pagoda, undead monk, Sule pagoda, Chinatown

4

Bagan (1): Temples, Lacquerware and more Temples

16/11/2012

Yangon to Nyaung U, Shwezigon Pagoda, Gubyaukgyi and Htilominlo Temples, Lacquerware, Ananda Temple, Horse-drawn trip round the plain. Dinner in the bamboo encampment

5

Bagan (2): Yet more Temples and a Drift Down the Irrawaddy

17/11/2012

New Bagan Market. Dhammayaziki Pagoda and a Bagan overview. Abeyadana, Manhua & Nanpaya temples. Myinkaba village. Gugyaukgyi temple and the  Myazedi Stone. The Tharabar Gate and its Great Nats. A trip on the mighty Irrawaddy. Dinner, a puppet show and a clumsy attempt at a scam.

Int

The Road to Mandalay (Kipling's Version)

18/11/2012

Rudyard Kipling and how he came to be in India. Mandalay, the poem and the song, music by Oley Speaks. A look at the poem and an appreciation, including its appalling geographical errors.

6

The Road to Mandalay (Real Life)

18/11/2012

We pass a village roadside enterprise. Peanut oil, production, toddy tapping and fermenting, the production of sweets. Further on water being transported from a well. A Robe giving ceremony, Popa and the Greta Nats, climbing the volcanic plug of Taung Kalat to the temple on the top. Lunch at The Crown, Mandalay, the Mosque, dinner at Nay.

7

Mandalay and Amarapura

19/11/2012

Making gold leaf. The Mahamuni Buddha, Monks lunch at Maha Ganayo Kyaung, Silk weaving. Two teak monasteries. Wood carvers, Zegyo Market, Shwenandaw Kyaung, Kuthodaw Pagoda and the world’s biggest book. Mandalay Hill, Ghurkha memorial and a failed sunset.

8

U Bein's Bridge, Sagaing and Inwa

20/11/2012

U Bein's Bridge, the longest teak bridge in the world. Sagaing, Potters and Silversmiths, Saigang Hill Temples and ‘genuine’ Raybans, To the island of Inwa, the former Kingdom of Ava, for lunch. Horse and Buggy ride stopping at Yedanasini Pagoda, Bagaya Monastery, Nan Myin the ‘Leaning tower of Inwa’.

9

Pindaya Heho and the 5-day Market

21/11/2012

&

22/11/2012

Flying Mandalay-Heho and driving Heho-Pindaya, The Golden Cave with 8000+ Buddha Images. Paper Making, andfoot operated lathes. Acquiring a local Breakfast. The Five Day market at Heho. Cattle and produce market.

10

Inle Lake (1), Stilt Houses, Fishermen and Non-Swimming Buddhas

22/11/2012

Nyaungshwe Town, Down the canal to Lake Inle. Unique Fishing styles and rowing with a leg and an arm, Ywama Village, Tha Lau and the , Phaung Daw Oo Temple, Gold leaf on Buddha images and the barge that capsized. Nga Phe, Jumping Cat Monastery. Khaung Daing village and Keepie-Uppie with a rattan Ball.

11

Inle Lake (2) Watching People Work and a Myanmar Winery

23/11/2012 &

24/11/2012

Fishing on Lake Inle. Up the creek to Inthein. Silversmith. Lunch at the Golden Moon. Lotus weaving. Blacksmith. Cheroot making. The very last fisherman. Red Mountain Winery. Shwe Yaunghwe Monastery. Back to Yangon.

Lynne and Swe have lunch, Yangon
Lardy-arsed foreigner almost fits on trishaw, Dala
The Bagan Plain
Lunch on the road to Mandalay
Making the gold leaf, Mandalay
U Bein's Bridge, Amarapura
Five Day Market, Heho
Fishermen, Lake Inle
Shwe Yaunghwe Monastery

Vietnam North to South (2012)

Vietnam

Pr

Ray Bans in London and Saigon

22/053/2012

The Price of sunglasses in London Airport, Street Traders in Ho Chi Minh City, the mega-rich should not haggle too hard, Sunglasses bought

1

Hanoi (1), Ethnic Minorities, The Old City and The Water Puppets

23/03/2012

Hanoi Traffic, Introduction to Pho. Museum of Ethnology, VN's 54 ethnic minorities Hanoi Old City, scary electrics, Water Puppets. Dinner at Ly Club.

2

Hanoi (2) Bat Trang, Quan Ho Music and Fighting Cocks

24/03/2012

Long Bien Bridge. Ceramics at Bat Trang, Bonsai Trees. Dong Ho village of art and funerals artefacts. Tam Tao, lunch in a village house, Quan Ho music and Fighting cocks. Back to Hanoir and St Joseph's Cathedral

3

Ha Long Bay

26/03/2012

Hanoi to Halong, Burial Practices in fields along the way. Boarding Junk at Ha Long. Surprise Cave. Swim. Kayaking across Ha Long Bay. Seafood dinner. Fish Farms. Floating village. Kissing Rocks 

4

Lao Cai, Coc Ly Market and Sa Pa

27/03/2012

The Hanoi-Lao Cai sleeper train. Breakfast in Lao Cai, the Chinese border, a huge Banyan and a Taoist Temple. To Coc Ly Village Market, the Flowery Hmong. Tea plantation on the way to Sa Pa. Sa Pa and the Black Hmong

5

Trekking from Sa Pa (1), Sa Pa to Ta Van

 

 

6

Trekkingfrom Sa Pa (2) Ta Van to Ban Den

 

 

7

Trekking from Sa Pa (3), Around Ban Den then back to Hanoi

 

 

8

Hanoi (3), The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and the Temple of Literature

31/03/2012

Ho Chi Minh. His Mausoleum, French Gov's Palace, Ho's quarters, Harry Enfield, One Pillar Pagoda, Confucian Temple of Literature, Restaurant L'Indochine.

9

Hue (1), The Citadel, The Battle of Hue 1968 and Some New Things to Eat

01/04/2012

Banh Khoai pancakes, The emperor Gia Long, first of the Nguyen dynasty built Hue's Imperial city & citadel. Attack on the citadel during the Tet Offensive in the Vietnam War, Don McCullin photographs. Dong Ba Market, green oranges, and an unrecognised fruit. Breakfast with sapodilla and gracilaria jelly.

10

Hue (2), A Self-Sacrificing monk, an Impotent Emperor and Imperial Dinner

02/04/2012 

An Hien Garden House, Thien Mu Pagoda, Phuoc Duyen Tower, Thich Quang Duc the monk who set himself on fire. The Perfume River. Tu Duc Mausoleum. Mandarin Café. Afternoon in Hue. An Imperial dinner at the Pleasant Garden Manor restaurant.

11

Da Nang

03/04/2012

Dam Cau Hai, Dam Lap An, oysters, Hai Van Pass, Champa Museum, Apsara Restaurant, China Beach, Da Nang Airbase and airport, Marble Mountain

12

Hoi An and My Son

04/04/2012 

Hoi An: The Thu Bon River and history as a trading port. Japanese Bridge. Chinese Assembly Halls. Across the killing fields were mission success was decided by the body count. My Son, the religious centre of the Champa empire. Back to Hoi An. Cao lau lunch. Ferrymen and (Kerala style) Chinese fishing nets on the river.

13

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

06/04/2012 

Sex Tourism. Eel Curry, The Cho Lon District and Binh Tay market. History Museum and the,Oc Eo Culture. Jade Emperor Pagoda. Lunch at Ngon, a Saigon institution. The reunification Palace and the End of American War. The War Remnants Museum, St Philip’s Good Friday Service.

14

The Mekong Delta (1), Can Bei and a Cornucopia of Fruit

07/04/2012 

Ho Chi Minh City to the Mekong delta. A boat ride to Cai Be and its factories making rice paper and sweets. Across the river for a lunch of elephant’s ear fish. Upstream to our homestay. The solution to the Hue fruit mystery and many more fruits.

15

The Mekong Delta (2), To Vinh Long and Can Tho

08/04/2012 

Being rowed along a Mekong backwater. A coucal. Fruit trees and durians. Visiting a brick (and garden gnome) works. Vietnamese Folk music. Boat to Vinh Long, then car over the Can Tho Bridge to Can Tho. Ho Chi Minh statue, Chinese chess, crushed sugar cane and a Hotpot dinner

16

The Mekong Delta (3): Cai Rang and My Tho

09/04/2012 

 

17

The Cu Chi Tunnels and the Cao Dai Great Temple

10/04/2012 

The Thich Quang Duc Shrine. Cu Chi, Tunnels, making sandals, booby traps. The uniquely Vietnamese Cao Dai religion, Attending a service at the Cao Dai Great Temple, The Kim Phuc photo by Nick Ut. A day in Ho Chi Minh City, weasel coffee, Hindu temple, shoe shine boys.

Chilis, ginger. food seller's street, Hanoi
Deliveryman, Bat Trang
Ha Long Bay
Flowery Hmong women, Coc Ly
Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum, Hanoi
The Forbidden City, Hue
Fruits made from Bean Paste
Hangars, Da Nang Airbase
The Japanese bridge, Hoi An
The tank that ended the war
Elephant's Ear fish
Rice barge on the Mekong
Inside the Cao Dai cathedral, Tay Ninh

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