The Staffordshire Way : Day 1 Mow Cop to Rudyard Lake

Walking the Length of One of England's Most Underrated Counties

Like Barcelona, this is and its subsequent companion posts are a Covid lockdown project. The walk actually took place in 2005/6.

Introducing the Staffordshire Way

Staffordshire

The Staffordshire Way is a 92 mile route from Mow Cop in the north of the county to Kinver Edge on the boundary with Worcestershire in the south. The route uses existing rights of way and was opened between 1977 and 1983.

Staffordshire is perhaps the most underrated of English counties. True, the M6 runs through it from North to South, and Stoke on Trent could not be mistaken for Bath or York in any known light, - but that apart it is, to quote the Staffordshire Way Official Guide a beautiful rural county of scenic contrast. It has rugged gritstone hills, deep wooded valleys and an abundance of 18th century landscaped parkland. It also has a chunk of the Peak District National Park (not on this walk) and all of the Cannock Chase Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

The walk is divided into 3 sections.

Part 1: Gritstone Country and the Churnet Valley

Part 1: Mow Cop to Rudyard

12/11/2005 Day 1 Mow Cop to Rudyard Lake

The Participants gather at Mow Cop, l to r Francis, Alison C, Mike, Alison T, Brian

Francis, Alison C, Mike and I (behind camera) would walk all seven legs. Brian, who like Francis and myself had previously completed the Staffordshire Way, walked on four of the seven days, Alison T was a welcome guest on Day 1 only.

Mow Cop

The village of Mow Cop (Mow, pronounced like the Chinese Chairman, not cutting grass) sits on a low hill on the Cheshire/Staffordshire boundary 6 miles north of Stoke-on-Trent. Open air prayer meetings held here by Hugh Bourne and William Clowes developed into the Primitive Methodist Movement which split from the Wesleyans in 1810. They reunited in 1932.

Mow Cop Castle was built in 1754 by Randle Wilbraham, a man with more money than sense. Designed to resemble the ruin of a medieval fortress with a round tower it was used as a summerhouse. (it features in a 2013 post entitled Chocolate Teapots)

Mow Cop Castle in late autumn sunshine

Although we were walking the Staffordshire Way north to south, we set off walking north along the ridge that forms the county boundary.

The Old Man of Mow

Just north of the castle, the 20m high Old Man of Mow is a pillar of gritstone left standing after the stone around it had been quarried away.

The Old Man of Mow

Continuing along the ridge in bright, if not particularly warm November sunshine we could see the town of Congleton in Cheshire to our left.

Congleton

Congleton Edge is a continuation of the 250m high ridge but there is a marked dip to its south known as Nick i’ the Hills.

Congleton Edge beyond Nick i' the Hills

Nick i’ the Hills to the Summit of The Cloud

Here we turned right, dropping off the ridge and descending through the woods to the line of the Biddulph Valley Railway. Built in the 1850s from Stoke on Trent to Congleton, it at first carried freight, adding passenger trains in 1864. By the 1920s it was failing to attract enough customers and the stations closed in 1927. Freight, mainly coal, continued to be carried but the line closed in stages between 1963 and 1977. The section we were on is now the Biddulph Valley Way a footpath managed by the Staffordshire Moorlands District Council and, further on, Cheshire East Council.

The Former Biddulph Valley Railway

We walked 2.3km along the disused railway, half that distance in Cheshire. Turning right we followed a less than arrow-straight route through another 3.2km of Cheshire climbing 250m to the summit of The Cloud.

[I bought my first digital camera in 2005, and this was my first day’s walk with a camera permanently in my hand, a situation that would become second nature over the next 15 years. I was a beginner then and missed several photo ops. In May 2012, Cowpat Walk 4, Biddulph the Cloud and Rushton Spencer followed part of this route – along the railway, over the Cloud and down to Rushton Spencer - so I have borrowed a few (more summery) pictures.]

Formed by the passage of ice around its flanks in successive ice ages, The Cloud is a lump of Mudstone topped with Chatsworth Gritstone. Its southern aspect is hardly impressive.

The Cloud from the south (May 2012)

The ascent from the south is gentle….

Ascending The Cloud from the south (My 2012)

…and finishes across the tilted, heather covered gritstone cap.

Following Francis and Mike across The Cloud's heather covered gritstone cap (May2012)

The summit at 343m (1,125 ft) is shared by Staffordshire and Cheshire and is the northernmost point of the Staffordshire Way - though not quite of Staffordshire. The northern scarp provides good views in all directions, except the way we had come.

The Summit of The Cloud

The first time I walked the Staffordshire Way in the late 90s, I did this section on my own. I had the The Cloud to myself; that same day, 50 people reached the summit of Mount Everest. Sometimes you do not have to go as far as you think to escape the crowds.

Bosley Reservoir and the Dane Valley from the top of The Cloud

The Cloud to Rushton Spencer

From the south we had walked straight up the hill, descending on the much steeper east side is easier across the slope. The Cloud looks more impressive from this side.

Looking back at The Cloud

Continuing east we dropped down to Ravenscloud Brook and followed the stream as it makes its way to the River Dane which here marks the Staffordshire/Cheshire boundary.

The Ravenscloud Brook (down to the right) has dug itself a ravine through the Ravenscloud forest (May 2012)

Reaching the floodplain we turned south for the first time on the walk and met up with the second disused railway of the day,

Approaching our second disused railway of the morning (May 2012)

The North Staffordshire Railway’s Churnet Valley branch line once ran from Uttoxeter to the village of North Rode in Cheshire to join the main the main Stoke to Macclesfield line. Opened in 1849, this northern section closed in 1964 and the track was lifted. It is now a footpath.

The old railway south to Rushton Spencer (May 2012)

We soon reached the village of Rushton Spencer and after 4 hours walking I was ready for a rest and a latish lunch at the Knot Inn.

Francis and Alison C outside the Knot Inn, Rushton Spencer

Rushton means an estate or settlement among rushes – still a fairly accurate description. In the 12th century the manor (like a dozen or so others around the country) was held by the immensely wealthy Sir Hugh le Despenser, hence the ‘Spencer’.

Rudyard Lake

We followed the railway south for a further 1.5km. The path first crosses and then runs parallel to the feeder stream from the River Dane which keeps Rudyard Lake topped up. The lake was constructed in 1831 to supply water to the Caldon Canal 2 miles to the south. The locks on busy canals shift water downhill, and that needs to be replenished at the high point of the canal.

South from Rushton Spencer of the former Churnet Valley Railway

At Rudyard lake the path continues down the eastern shore, but we cut across the northern end, recrossing the feeder stream to walk through the woods on the western side.

The north end of Rudyard Lake (and the feeder stream from the River Dane)

Functional as its origin may have been, the lake and its wooded slopes possess a tranquil beauty and have long attracted those who wish to sail, fish or just enjoy the paths among the trees.

Brian and Alison T lead us into the depths of Reacliffe Wood beside Rudyard Lake

John Lockwood Kipling, an art teacher, illustrator and museum curator working in Burslem in the 1860s, met and courted Alice Macdonald. Some, evidently significant, parts of their courtship featured trips to Rudyard Lake. In 1865 he was appointed professor of architectural sculpture in the J J School of Art in Bombay (see the 2019 post Mumbai, The Posh End). He and Alice married in March and set out for India together. Their first child was born on the 30th of December 1865 and was christened Rudyard after the lake.

The lake is some 3km long and the November light was beginning to fade as we reached Rudyard village at the southern end. The redundant station on the Churnet Valley line still exists – as does its car park. As we had the foresight to leave a car or two here earlier in the day this was the end of Day 1.

Distance Completed: 20km

Staffordshire Way, Day 1

The Staffordshire Way

Day 1: Mow Cop to Rudyard Lake
Day 2: Rudyard to Hawksmoor
Day 3: Hawksmoor to Uttoxeter
Day 4: Uttoxeter to Shugborough
Day 5: Cannock Chase, Penkridge and Lapley
Day 6: Lapley to Seisdon
Day 7: Seisdon to Kinver Edge

THE END

The Roaches and Lud's Church: Cowpat Walks No. 10

A Peak District Walk Taking in Two of Staffordshire's Finest Sights

Staffordshire

Staffordshire
Moorlands

365 days after the last Cowpat* centred on Codsall (it would have been a year to the day had 2016 not been a leap year) Brian and I met Francis and Alison in Stone and together we drove to the Roaches.

The Roaches

The Roaches, Peak District National Park (Photograph April 2011)

The Cowpats Walks within the Peak District
no. 10 just pokes into Cheshire at its eastern end

The walk had not been conceived as a Cowpat - the occasion was a visit by Brian and Hilary from their new home in Torquay - but as we strolled along Alison asked if I intended blogging it and I was surprised to hear myself answer 'probably'. Then I commented that the walk had most of the attributes of a Cowpat, and nobody argued, so here it is.

We left home in drizzle (the weather forecast had been good right up until this morning) but it stopped before we arrived.

The parking spaces on the road below Hen Cloud and the Roaches have been the start of several walks over the years and the Roaches have appeared in this blog before (A Republican Ramble Round the Ramshaw Rocks, 2011).

Ready to depart on the road below the Roaches
With the long drive, and Alison coming all the way from Cheltenham it was almost 10.30 before we started

The Roaches (the name derives from the French for ‘rocks’ and does not infer an unpleasant infestation) are a 500m high ridge of gritstone. The road where we parked is at 300m, so the day started with a climb up onto the rocks via much-used well-graded paths….

Gently graded path up the Roaches

…through woodland…

Up through the woods, the Roaches

…and occasionally up steps.

Nearing the top of the ridge, the Roaches

Once on the ridge, there is a long but gentle rise towards the highest point. The ridge is an airy place - so airy, in fact, I had difficulty holding the camera still taking these shots.

Along the Roaches Ridge

With the rain gone and sunshine tickling the edges of the clouds, the day was clear and the views good. To the Southwest is Tittesworth Reservoir with the town of Leek (Queen of the Staffordshire Moorlands, as it likes to style itself) just visible beyond.

Tittesworth Reservoir with Leek at the far end

Looking northwest, The Cloud with its slanting gritstone cap guards the entrance to the Cheshire plain where the radio telescope at Jodrell Bank could be clearly seen.

The Cheshire Plain with The Cloud (left side, half way up) and Jodrell Bank (level with The Cloud, two thirds of the way across

We continued to the trig point marking the 505m high point. The trig points that sit on summits major, minor and sometimes barely discernible are an evocative reminder of earlier map making. Now obsolete some are in a poor state, but someone had bothered to give this one a coat of whitewash.

The trig point on the Roaches

From the trig point we started the long descent through interesting rock formations. In March 2009 I came across a photogenic grouse perched on a nearby rock. During World War Two five Bennett's Wallabies escaped from a private zoo and at one time the group had grown to 50 or more. Occasional reported sightings around the Roaches and Lud’s Church (see later) suggest they are still out there. Sadly, we saw no noteworthy fauna on the Roaches today.

Descending along the Roaches ridge

The descent ends at a minor road which we crossed and then ducked behind a wall to find a cosy wind-free coffee spot.

Coffee behind a wall

Into Back Forest

The ridge continues for a couple of kilometres, 100m or more lower than the Roaches, but we took a path that leads down to the woods on its northern flank.

Before reaching the trees we had a distant view of Shutlingsloe. One metre higher than the Roaches, it consists of layers of mudstone and limestone topped with a sloping cap of Chatsworth Grit. The summit was the main objective of Cowpat 5.

Shutlingsloe

On the upper path through Back Forest the wind-tossed leaves and branches made the dappled sunshine dance along the path. Contouring through the trees was pleasant, only a little spoiled by the frequent muddy sections, and the tree roots veining the track and threatening to trip the unwary.

Through Back Forest

Lud's Church

After a kilometre we reached Lud's Church, or, as the OS Map helpfully calls it 'Lud's Church (Chasm)'.

Entering Lud's Church

Faults in the gritstone run along the ridge, some of them packed with softer mudstone. At some time in the past, probably after the glaciers retreated and before humans arrived, a huge chunk of the gritstone slipped downhill towards what is now the Dane Valley. The result is a narrow defile 100m long and 18m deep.

Into the lower part of Lud's Church

Wikipedia claims that whatever the weather the depths of Lud's Church are always cold but in the late summer/early autumn sun, and completely protected from the wind I found climbing through the bottom of Lud's Church warm work.

Unsurprisingly, such a noticeable feature has been fancifully connected with a variety of characters some legendary, like Robin Hood, and others real like Bonnie Prince Charlie. Imaginative derivations of the name are also legion. Most likely, there is a connection, both physical and linguistic, with the Lollards, the followers of the 14th century philosopher and religious reformer John Wycliffe, who would have needed a place of refuge. Wycliffe produced an English translation of the bible in the 1380s when such an action was radical, indeed heretical. 'Lollard' is drive from a Middle Dutch word meaning 'mumbler', and was a sneering reference to those with a little learning, but no knowledge of the classics (like a lot of us today).

Brian in Lud's Church

Also interesting is the identification of Lud's Church with the 'Green Chapel' in Sir Gawain and the Green Knight. The 14th century chivalric romance was written in the North West Midlands dialect (some have even said the Leek dialect) so Lud's Church may well have been known to the author.

Alison heads for the exit, Lud's Church

Over the Ridge and down to the River Dane

From Lud's Church we headed upwards out of the woods and over the ridge as it drops towards the Dane Valley.

Out of the woods and over the lower part of the ridge

With a good view back to the Roaches, we rounded Hangingstone Farm....

Looking back to the Roaches

And made our way across a field of sheep….

Across a field of sheep - there were sheep, honest. They were just camera shy.

…. to the woods above the River Dane and the steep descent to the river,....

Down to the River Dane

... reaching it at Danebridge.

Across the Dane Bridge at Danebridge

Lunch at The Ship

Cheshire

Cheshire East

Once over the river we were in Cheshire and ventured a couple of hundred metres into this strange and wondrous land but only as far as the Ship Inn where our Staffordshire walk was graced with a Cheshire lunch. The Ship has an interesting history and was the lunch stop on the Shutlingsloe walk where I wrote about it at length.

I enjoyed my pulled pork with hoisin sauce in ciabatta, but I was not the only one to find the beers, from the Greater Manchester brewery of J W Lees, lacklustre. We had passed the Wincle micro-brewery on our way up from the river and it seemed a shame that The Ship could stock none of their beer.

After our late start it was nearer three than two before we headed back down to the bridge. Unusually for Staffordshire rivers (even if on the border) the Dane heads not for the Trent and the east coast, but continues westward through Cheshire until joining the River Weaver at Northwich. The Weaver flowed into the Mersey until 1887 when the Manchester Ship Canal was built, and it now enters the canal at Runcorn dock.

The River Dane

Back into Staffordshire and a Plod Back to the Car

Staffordshire

Staffordshire
Moorlands

In the morning we had enjoyed a splendid and varied walk, in improving, if varied, weather. The gentle sunshine of the afternoon was perfect walking weather but the route was less interesting. The morning had been a long curve and we returned by as straight a chord across it as paths allowed.

At Danebridge chapel we took a path back up through the woods. At the fork the left route was obvious, the right more hidden, and that was the one we wanted. After a little backtracking we found our way to a house marked on the map as ‘Snipe’….

Up towards 'Snipe'

…and then made for the minor road across the Swythamley Estate (once home the of Brocklehursts who also owned The Ship and a zoo with - and later without - wallabies).

Across the Swythamley Estate

From there continuously rising but featureless field paths took us from farm to barn to farm. A bit dull, but couple of hares careering across our path improved it, and made up for the morning’s lack of fauna.

It was not all field paths

We forded the unnamed stream that is the main feeder of Tittesworth Reservoir and made our way up to Roche Grange through a wet field pocked with cows’ footmarks which always makes for difficult walking.

Up a cow-pocked field to Roche Grange

At Roche Grange a sign led us through deep nettles into a dead end, and we had to backtrack and take the lane up to the road below the Roaches. The lane was steep and, unlike the path we could not find, veered away from our destination.

The lane from Roche Grange - steeper than the photo makes it look

Eventually we made it to the road and a couple of kilometres on tarmac brought us back to the car.

Along the road below the Roaches and back to the car

After a shaky start the weather had sorted itself out and it was good to get most of the team back together though we missed Mike (family commitments) and Lee (so young he still has to work). All things considered, it was a fine day out.

*Starting in November 2011, the Cowpat Walks have formed a rough circle of circles as the starting points have moved clockwise around Stafford – though the clockwise sequence has not been strictly adhered to.

The Cowpats

1 Ironbridge Gorge

2 Eccleshall and Cop Mere

3 Swynnerton to Whitmore

4 Biddulph, The Cloud and Rushton Spencer

5 Shutlingsloe and Danebridge

6 Crowdecote
7 Scaling the Mighty Weaver Hills

 8 Morridge and Onecote
9 Codsall
10 The Roaches and Lud's Church