A Small Town with a Unique Personality
Glasto: An Intro
Somerset |
This post is not about the Glastonbury festival, it's about the town of Glastonbury. I have nothing against the festival, in fact I am all
for it, but this post is not about it.
Last May, Day 18 of the South West Odyssey took us over Pennard Hill and, we looked down on the festival site and the half completed
Pyramid Stage, before walking on to finish at Glastonbury.
Glastonbury Festival site from Pennard Hill (May 2013) |
Our route took us over Glastonbury Tor, so this post is not about that either - I wrote about it last year. But I cannot ignore it, partly
because it is visible from all over the town and partly because the tor is a
strange and some would say mystic place, and 'strange and mystic' are the two
words that best characterise Glastonbury.
The tor is visible from all over town, Glastonbury (May 2013) |
I arrived on the 2nd of May, it was not a date I chose, merely one that fitted between other commitments. Had I arrived a day earlier I
could have enjoyed the town's Beltane festivities. Glastonbury is that sort of town.
At first sight the main street looks like that of any small Somerset town with a mixture of old stone and brick buildings,….
Glastonbury High Street |
…. a small market place, though I had clearly not arrived on market day….
Glastonbury Market Square |
…. and a large parish church.
St John the Baptist, Glastonbury |
But it also has the ruins of a once prosperous Abbey which, along with the tor, have made Glastonbury a town about which many questions can
be asked, all of them with the answer 'no'.
Glastonbury Abbey
I started in the Abbey.
Joseph of Arimathea
The first church on the site was built by Joseph of Arimathea who was the uncle of Jesus as well as the donor of his tomb. He arrived with a bunch of disciples in 63AD and they lived a life of great piety and simplicity. He planted his staff which grew into the thorn tree that can still be seen at the Abbey to this day.
Joseph of Arimathea's Holy Thorn Tree, Glastonbury Abbey |
Joseph of Arimathea among the Rocks of Albion William Blake |
Sadly for this story the very brief biblical mentions of Joseph say that a) he was a good man and b) he had a spare tomb. Nothing else is known about him.
So, Question 1: Did Joseph of Arimathea found the first church in Glastonbury? Answer: no.
Question 2: Individual thorn trees do not live two thousand years but is it possible that the current tree was been grown from a cutting of
a cutting of……. the staff of a wandering ancient Palestinian? Again, no.
In another story Joseph was a tin merchant and regular visitor to these shores. On one trip he brought along his young nephew, the future Messiah.
Question 3, as posed by William Blake: 'And did those feet in ancient time walk upon England's
mountains green?' No they didn’t.
St Patrick
Saint Patrick visited Glastonbury in the 5th century and observed that when the first Christians arrived a church already existed that
could have been made by no mortal hand.
Question 4: Did St Patrick come to Glastonbury? No.
The Lady Chapel, Glastonbury Abbey |
Question 5: Did the first Christians find a miraculous church ready and waiting for them? No.
The first church was probably built in the 7th century by the local Celtic population. By 658 when Cenwalh, King of Wessex brought
Somerset under Saxon control, there was already a thriving monastery. It was
further endowed by King Ine who ordered the building of the first stone church in 712.
Inside the Lady Chapel, Glastonbury |
Miraculous Statues
The wealthy monastery was a great prize to the invading Normans and in 1086, according to the Domesday Book, Glastonbury was the
richest abbey in the country. Unfortunately the church burned down in 1184; only
a single wooden statute of the infant Jesus in his mother's lap survived. This
was clearly a miracle, doubly so when the wooden infant was seen to clap his
hands. Sadly, the much venerated statue was lost several centuries ago.
The remains of the monastery, Glastonbury Abbey |
Question 6: Did a wooden statute of the infant Jesus clap its hands? No.
The Grave of King Arthur
Despite the pilgrims, and money, brought in by the clapping Christ child, the Abbey needed more money for its ambitious building programme.
Excavating in their own graveyard, the monks were amazed to find coffins labelled
with the names of King Arthur and Queen Guinevere. The bodies were reinterred by the high altar,
the pilgrims flocked to Glastonbury and the money rolled in.
Question 7: Were Arthur and Guinevere buried in Glastonbury Abbey? No. The cynical and shameless marketing ploy is not a new invention.
And on the same subject, Question 8: Is The Tor the actual site of the legendary Isle of Avalon? No.
The Tor from Glastonbury Abbey |
All that is known of Arthur from contemporary sources (and in this instance contemporary means four centuries later) is that he fought at
the Battle of Badon and was killed at the Battle of Camlann. Neither of these
battle sites have been identified but it is conjectured that Arthur was a
Romano-Celtic kinglet resisting Saxon incursions. The rest of what we 'know' about
Arthur comes from Geoffrey of Monmouth (1110-1155) who claimed to be writing
history, but nobody believed him even then, and from Thomas Mallory (died 1451).
The distinction between fiction and non-fiction was not well established
then, but Mallory never claimed not to be writing fiction.
The current site marked as the burial place of Arthur is in the ruins of the Abbey Church a few metres in front of where the high altar
once stood. The ‘actual’ burial site was lost during the dissolution of the
monastery, so this picture is of a fake of a fake.
Alleged Grave of King Arthur, Glastonbury Abbey |
The Dissolution of the Monasteries came to Glastonbury in 1539. Today the site is green and calm with the sad, dignified beauty that only
ruins can have. What is left are only fragments of the fine buildings that once
stood here, but they are well preserved and interpreted, the vestiges of the
old walls being made clearly visible in the grass.
The remains of the transept, Glastonbury Abbey |
The Chapel of St Patrick and Statue of Sigiric
The medieval chapel of St Patrick, standing behind 'Joseph of Arimathea’s thorn tree,' was built to serve a set of alms-houses lining the
monastery wall. The alms-houses have gone, but the chapel has recently been
restored with modern stained glass by Wayne Ricketts and brightly coloured
murals in medieval style.
St Patrick's Chapel, Wayne Ricketts windows |
Outside is a bronze of Sigeric by Heather Burnley. I like
the sculpture, though I do not know the story it represents, nor do I
understand why Sigeric has been so honoured. Educated and ordained at
Glastonbury he went on to be Archbishop of Canterbury, but his main claim to
fame was to have advised Æthelred the Unready to pay off the Danes to stop them
ravaging the countryside. Unsurprisingly, the Danes took the money, went away, and
then came back for more. ‘Unready’ is a mistranslation of ‘unræd' meaning ‘ill-advised’.
Well done Sigeric
Sigeric by Heather Burnley, St Patrick's Chapel, Glastonbury Abbey |
The Abbot's Kitchen
The 14th century Abbot's kitchen has survived and reopened last month after extensive restoration. It is tricked out with a plastic meal
while plastic pigs and fowls rotate on the spits.
The Abbot's Kitchen, Glastonbury Abbey |
The visitor centre/museum is light and well set out. Glastonbury Abbey enjoys its myths and they are all rehearsed, but properly
acknowledged as myths. For the true believers you have to venture outside.
New Age Glastonbury
The streets of Glastonbury were busy with school partiesfrom France and Germany, tourists from all over the world and local people, a
significant number of whom could be said to stand out. Glastonbury is the
gathering place for those who believe, in Joni Mitchell’s words, that 'We are
star dust, we are golden.' They may be busy trying to 'get themselves back to
the garden' but the New Age flummery has a hard business edge.
Many shops have stickers warning that they are protected by witchcraft. One, called the 'Cat and Cauldron,' has a board outside promising
'tarot card readings today.'
The Cat & Cauldron, Glastonbury |
Question 9: Do tarot cards, horoscopes, crystal balls or any other method of divining the future actually work. No, they don’t.
There are shops called The Mystic Garden, Moon Mirrors,.....
The Mystic Garden and Moon Mirrors, Glastonbury |
Lilith, The Goddess and the Green Man, Enlightenment, Natural Earthling......
Natural Earthling, Glastonbury |
....and even one called Get Real which, does not really apply in Glastonbury opposite.
Get Real, Glastonbury |
Question 10: Could I be healed, assuming I needed healing, by the power of crystals, the realigning of my chakras, the adjustment of my
aura or by any other therapy that cannot explain how it works? No.
Sprigs that Run Red and the Holy Grail
I did not have time to visit the Chalice Well. The well is surrounded, I have read, by beautiful and peaceful gardens popular with
neopagans – and other people. The waters of the spring gush red and as
Glastonbury is associated with Joseph of Arimathea, who once (allegedly) guarded
the Holy Grail, and King Arthur, whose knights sought it, any fool could work
out that this is where the Holy Grail is secreted.
Question 11: Are the waters of Chalice Well red from the blood of Christ, or possibly from the rusty nails of the cross? No, they are
red because they come through from a stratum of iron ore under Pennard Hill.
Question 12: Will the Holy Grail be found somewhere in the Glastonbury area. No, no and thrice no.
For a reality check you can visit the Glastonbury Lake Village Museum hidden in the recesses of the tourist information centre, at least you
can if you turn up on time. I arrived as it closed so I never got to see it. It
contains artefacts from a crannog excavated a few miles north of the town,
though the site has now been re-covered to preserve it. Glastonbury’s Iron Age
inhabitants were neither stupid nor unsophisticated, yet they were further
'removed from the garden' than the town's modern inhabitants, many living lives
that were nasty, brutish and short. They were, though, the real people of
Somerset and the ancestors of many of us.
I am a devout sceptic, but not a cynic, and I hope I have not given the impression that I dislike Glastonbury. The town has its own style and in a perverse way I admire the new age traders, while maintaining my belief that they are clueless. There is room for everybody in this world and
if Glastonbury has rather more than its fair share of oddities, then good luck to them.
I live in Glastonbury and I work in a crystal shop here. I don't believe everything that is said about the place - it is just a town. There are a great many people here who are aware of that. Those who don't usually end up burning out and failing.
ReplyDeleteDespite my spiritual beliefs, I am a logician at heart. I KNOW that crystal healing etc is all in the mind (but the brain is a very powerful organ, let's not forget), but that is not to say that there isn't room for it.
I found your article highly offensive (not least because you name-dropped my mother-in-law's shop, clearly without knowing a thing about it). I am one of those "new age traders". You admire me in a "perverse way"? I wish I could say the same about you. I just think that you're perverse.
Also, the market square IS used for markets - twice weekly.
ReplyDeleteI'm a professional tarot reader who predicts the future. According to my clients, I'm correct 99% of the time, that's why they keep paying me. So I guess you're wrong... lol. If you don't know about such things, then you really shouldn't be writing about them. There are many things wrong with this article, perhaps you should just stick to talking about food and pretty buildings.
ReplyDeleteGlastonbury,is a place of pilgrimage,a special place that has captured the soul and spirit of human mind since the dawn of mankind,the people have made the myths and legends of Avalon,ever since first clapping our ancestors hands in delight thousands of years of habitation carry the stories,Glastonbury is a unique town,love it or hate it,that is your own personal view,whatever you find and discover upon a visit to Glastonbury is always enlightening and usually opens a crossroads in one's life..the Tor is well worth the walk up,sometimes if you're lucky drinking the white spring and red spring will help you clear your mind and truely open your mind to breath the air upon the Tor..as it did me as I as a 5 year old child looked up in awe.Glastonbury is,has always been a healing place.the shops make the high st colourful as do the inhabitants,it's a lovely vibrant,cosmopolitan fun town,quite unique and steeped in myths,legends,history of Britain..and I'm proud of Glastonbury and all that live and surround our sacred isles..Amen..M..
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