Former USSR

Georgia, where else would I rather be? (Tasting Georgian Wine)

Beaches are boring, foam discos are for the young, but 'interesing and unusual' places are always worth visiting, whatever your age. And they may be the places you least expect. This page is a round up of our travels in countries which were part of the Soviet Union, before it collapsed in 1991. Some are now mainstream tourist destinations, others remain 'unusual', all are interesting.

Working back from the most recent, this page covers Moldova (and Transnistria), Georgia, Azerbaijan, Armenia, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania and Russia - and also Mongolia, which was never part of the USSR, but would not fit in anywhere else. We were booked to visit Ukraine in June 2020 but that was stopped by COVID. I see little possibility of re-booking that in the foreseeable future.

Moldova (and Transnistria) 2018

Moldova has been described as the least visited country in Europe. We found it a fascinating and friendly place with excellant food and a wine industry that produces good wine at basement prices and great wine at very reasonable prices.

Moldova
Transnistria

Chişinău: A Modest Capital City

24/06/2018

Introduction and 'city gates',Strada Eugen Doda,Ghetto and Comosomol memorials, Valentine, Rusian Orthodox Cathedral, Arcul de Triumf, Stefen the Great Boulevard and Park & Gardens, Lunch at La Plăcinte, A stroll and a demo.

Purcari: Fine Moldovan Wine

25/06/2018

Chişinău to Purcari, Château Purcari, Purcari wine tasting, Purcari lunch, Purcari village, oddities on the way home, beer and whitebait in Chişinău

Orheiul Vechi and Cricova Winery

26/06/2018

To Orheuil Vechi, Moldova's Grand Canyon, Butuceni, The Orheuil Vechi Hermit and Monastery, Cricova Winery - tunnels, cellars and tasting, return to Chişinău

Transnistria: A Day Out in a Non-Existant Country

27/06/2018

Where is Transnistra? Crossing the Transnistrian Border, the Transnistrian Rouble, Bender Military Historical Complex, Bender Fort and Baron Von Münchhausen, Bender Railway Station, Tiraspol, war memorials and Parliament Building, Lunch in Tiraspol, Back to Chişinău for dinner and divin. Why is Transnistria?

Valentine, Chişinău
Lynne and the Purcari Vineyards
Orheiul Vechi
Bender Fort
I love Tiraspol

Moldova and Transnitria are also labelled in:

A Collection of Arches de Triomphe (None of them in Paris) Part 1, Pre-1900

19/08/2020

Moldova's contribution is Chişinău's modest Arcul de Triomf built to celebrate Russia's victory in 1828-9 version of their recurrent wars with Turkey.

A Collection of Arches de Triomphe (None of them in Paris) Part 2, Post-1900

20/08/2020

Chişinău had an arch commemorating an earlier victory that had brought Moldova under Russian control. It was destroyed in WW2. The Arch of Bender in Transnistria is a facsimile erected to remind European facing Moldovans who the boss really is.

The Caucasus
Azerbaijan and Georgia 2014, Armenia 2003

We travelled across the southern Caucasus through Azerbaijan and Georgia in August 2014, starting at Baku on the Caspian and finishing at Batumi on the Black Sea.

Azerbaijan we found much more relaxed and welcoming than we had expected. Georgia is a small country, but immensely varied, from warm vine-filled valleys to snow capped peaks. It is a land of trenchermen, wine-swillers and rugby players, what's not to like?

Armenia was not part of the 2014 trip, but we visitted in 2003, one of our earlier 'unusual destinations' and some years pre-blog. There are no dedicated Armenia posts, but there are 8 posts in which Armenia is labelled.

Azerbaijan

Baku (1) City of Fire

11/08/2014

Arriving in Baku, exploratory stroll, Lunch in Summer Park, The Absheron Peninsula, Ateşgah Məbədi Fire Temple, Yanag Dar (Fire Mountain), Caspian Sea, Boulevard Park, Pizza and Pide

Baku (2) The Qobustan Petroglyphs and the Old City

12/08/2014

Baku to Qobustan, Museum and Petroglyphs, Thor Heyerdahl, Back to Baku, Martyr's Alley, Flame Towers and the Eurovision Song Contest, Lunch on Fountain Square, Old City, Maiden's Tower, Broken Tower Mosque, Palace of the Shirvanshahs, Dinner on Fountian Square

Baku to Sheki

13/08/2014

Leaving Baku, Dir Baba Mausoleum, Şamaxi Friday Mosque, Yeddi Gumbaz (7 Domed Cemetary), Bado and its Mineral Water, Barbecue Lunch, Nic Bucket Market, Sheki Caravanserai, Piti (2-part stew)

Sheki

14/08/2014

Khan's Palace, Şǝbǝkǝ stained glass, Albanian Temple, War memorial, Friday Mosque, Market, Kiş Albanian Church, More Thor Heyerdahl, Sac for lunch

The Crystal Hall, Baku
Yanar Dag, Absheron
Lynne and new friends, bucket market, Nic
Sheki
Sac for Lunch

Azerbaijan is also labelled in

A Collection of Arches de Triomphe (None of them in Paris) Part 2, Post-1900

20/08/2020

Azerbaijan's contribution to my collection of arches is the Eternal Flame in Martyr's Alley, Baku


Georgia

Into Georgia: The Vinyards of Kakheti

15/08/2014

Leaving Sheki, Sheki to the Border, into Georgia, Khareba wine cellars, tasting and lunch, Gremi Tower palace, church & caravanserai, Twins Winery (Napareuli), Telavi, guesthouse & dinner, our first Khachapuri

Telavi to Tblisi via Sighnaghi

16/08/2014

Telavi Castle, 900 year-old Plane Tree, Tsinandali Palace, Sighnaghi, St Nino, Bodbe Nunnery, Lunch at Pheasant's Tears Winery, City Wall & Alazani Valley, Churches & War Memorial, To Tbilisi, Konka Station

Tasting Georgian Wine

17/08/2014

Qvervi, Georgian Wine Regions, Khareba Wines (Kvareli), Twins Old Cellar (Napareuli), Tsinindali Palace, Pheasant's Tears (Sighnaghi), Chacha.

Tblisi

17/08/2014

Mother Georgia, Metekhi Church and the Founding of the City, Peace Bridge, Puppet Theatre, 'Stalin's Seminary', Cheese Shop, Treasure in the National Museum, Megrelian Khachapuri for lunch, The Soviet Occupation, Narikala Fort, Thermal Baths

North on the Georgian Military Highway

18/08/2014

Jvari Church, Mtskheta, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, Sidonia and Christ's Seemless Robe, How to eat Khinkhali, Ananuri Fortress, Gudauri.

Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) and Tsminda Sameba

19/08/2014

Jvari Pass and Soviet decorations, Stepanstsminda, climbing to Tsminda Sameba, Tsminda Sameba, Lunch in Stepantsminda, Up the Tergi Valley to the Russian border, Limestone sheets on the Hillside, The top of the Jvari Pass, Dinner at Gudauri

Uplistsikhe and Gori: Cave Dwellings and Stalin

20/08/2014

Uplistsikhe cave city, The South Ossetia Problem, Gori and the Stalin Birthplace Museum, Honey bread on the way to Kutaisi, Kutaisi, first impressions and dinner

Kutaisi, Zugdidi and the Inguri Valley

21/08/2014

Bagrati Cathedral, Gelati Monastery, Central Kutaisi, Zugdidi, The Inguri Dam, Inguri Valley, Arriving at Mestia

Mestia, Capital of the Upper Svaneti

22/08/2014

Mt Tetnuldo and a panorama of Mestia, Svaneti Museum, the Margiani watchtower and house, lunch, Queen Tamar and Mestia Centre.

Ushguli, to the ends of the Earth

23/08/2014

3 Hours off-road to Ushguli, Ushguli, Lamaria Church, Lunch in a village house, Walking towards the Shkhara Glacier, Back to Mestia, Dinner in Mestia

South to Ajara

24/08/2014

Mestia to the Black Sea Coast, Arriving in Ajara, Lunch in Kobuletti, Batumi Botanical Gardens, Arriving in Batumi.

Batumi, Capital of Ajara

25/08/14

USSR 12th Military Base, Gonio-Apsarus Fortress, Grave of the Apostle Matthias, Jason & the Argonauts, Batumi Walking Tour, Miracle Park, Chacha, Uiversity and Alphabet Towers, The Lovers (Ali & Nino), Europe Square, Ajarian Khachapuri, Museum of Ajara, Farewell to Georgia

Twins Winery, Napareuli
Sighnaghi
The Tamada, Tbilisi
Ananuri Fortress
Lynne toils upwards
Stalin's birthplace, Gori
Fountain, Central Kutaisi
The Margiani House, Mestia
Hamlet, near Ushguli
Batumi Botanical Gardens
Medea, Europe Square, Batumi

Georgia is also labelled in

The Churning of the Ocean of Milk

19/01/2017

Georgia does not have a depiction of the 'Churning' but is mentioned in the section comparing the stories of the Mahabharata and Greek myths.


Armenia

Armenia is labelled in

Socialist Realism and some Western Fantasies

25/01/2022

A look at some of the Socialist Realism paintings, sculptures and posters we have encountered on our travels. The Armenian contribution is the statue of David of Sassoon outside Yerevan railway ststion.

Bridges

27/01/2016

A collection of bridges that join things together. The Armenian contribution is the 12th century bridge over the River Debed in Alaverdi.

Commemorating the Dead: Tsunami, Earthquake and War

05/10/2012

Even in 2003 damage from the 1988 eathquake in northern Armenia could be seen. The 'commemoration' is the remarkable and moving memorial Khachkar in Vanandzor churchyard

Three Favourite Gravestones; Armenia, China and Wales

23/09/2012

My eye was caught by the gravestone of a baker in a cemetery near Goris in southern Armenia.

Street Chess in Armenia, Bosnia and Vietnam

08/08/2012

Pictures of people (all men!) playing chess. The Armenian example was in Gyumri in the north of the country.

Stone Circle Part 1: Swynnerton to Fulford

2/03/2012

The first day of a three day circular walk with Stone in Staffordshire as its centre led to a crossing of the M6. That gave me an excuse to compare that road with the similarly designated road in northern Armenia

Debed Bridge, Alaverdi
Earthquake damage, Gyumri
The M6, Gyumri to Vanadzor, Armenia

Georgia and Armenia are both labelled in

Statues without Plinths

14/02/2023

A collection of largely plinth-free statues from three continents. In this less deferential age it is good not to be looking up to people all the time. Georgia’s contribution is Tamada, the national toastmaster, in Tbilisi. Armenia contributes a fat cat and a statue of Mesrop Mashtots who is credited with inventing the Armenian alphabet

Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia are all labelled in

The Variety of Mosques (1) Praying Facing South

22/05/2020

A collection of mosques in countries at least part in Europe. Muslim Azerbaijan offers a wide selection, but I have chosen mosques in Baku and Şamaxi. Christian Georgia and Armenia have fewer, but there are fine mosques in both Tbilisi and Yerevan. Other Mosques are in Bosnia, North Macedonia, Bulgaria, Albania and Türkiye (Istanbul)

The Baltic States
Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia 2011

Lithuanian, Latvia and Estonia have become popular tourist destinations over the last 20+ years and Riga and Tallinn are now stag party destinations. Even sober visitors cannot always remember which is which, but a wise man once pointed out to me that they go in alphabetical order north to south. But when we visited in 2011, we travelled south to north!

Lithuania

Vilnius

08/07/2011

Arrival, Old Town, The Gates of Dawn, St Theresa's Church, Church of the Holy Spirit, Town Hall, Cathedral Square, Castle, Lunch in Old Town, The Holocaust, Ghettoes and the Jewish Community, An Egg and Frank Zappa, Gedimino Prospektas, Genocide Museum in the KGB Building, Parliament Building, Blynai, St Anne's Church, The Republic of Uzupis.


Latvia

Riga

12/07/2011

Arrival at Bus Station, Academy of Science, Some History, House of the Blackheads, Protestant Cathedral & Salaspils Head, St Peter's, Palace of Peter the Great, St Saviour's, Riga Castle, Trip on the River Daugava, The Three Brothers, Metzendorf House, Great Guild and Small Guild, Freedom Monument, Kvass and the Market in the Zeppelin Hangars, Riga and the Holocaust, Russian Orthodox Cathedral, Eating and Drinking in Riga.


Estonia

Tallinn

15/07/2011

Parnu, Vadabuse Square & the Freedom Monument, Toompea Hill & Tallinn Castle, Russian orthodox Cathedral, Lutheran Cathedral, Ramparts & Pikk Jag, House of the Blackheads and the Three Sisters, Olaviste Church, Great Sea Gate, Fat Margaret and the MS Estonia Memorial, Church of the Holy Ghost, Town Hall Square, Reapteek, The City Museum, St Nicholas Church and Bernt Notke's Danse Macabre, Museum of the Occupation, Johan Pitka, Eating and Drinking in Tallinn

Vilnius, The Old City
Riga, from St Peter's Tower
Fat Margaret, Tallinn

All three Baltic States are labelled in are all labelled in

A Load of Baltics

05/07/2011

The Baltic States and what I learned from Stanley Gibbons Stamp Catalogue. A brief introduction to the Baltic States and how they have popped in and out of existence as independent countries in the last century or two.

The Trans-Siberian Railway
Russia and Mongolia 2007

We travelled the Trans-Siberian in our last summer holiday before we retired. I wrote up the journey later from our photos, my memory and Lynne's diary. The 'Trans-Siberian' section officially ends at Lake Baika. You can continue through the Russian Far-East to Vladivostok, but a more interesting option, we thought, was to turn south to Mongolia and Beijing. I am aware that Mongolia was never actually part of the USSR, but this page is the best fit available.

Russia

Moscow

15/07/2007

Arriving in Moscow, Using the Moscow Metro, Tverskaya, Eliseevsky Grocers and Yuri Dolgorukiy, Through the Hotel Metropol to Red Square, The Kremlin, Visiting Lenin's Tomb

Yekaterinburg

18/07/2007

Moscow to Yekaterinburg.Yekaterinburg Intro. The Church of the Blood. Soviet Past. Afghan War Memorial. Graves of the Romanovs. Boundary between Europe and Asia. Victims of Stalin. Dealing with real Russians. Eating in Yekaterinburg

Across Siberia to Irkutsk

20/07/2007

The 'Baikal' train. Siberia. Old-School Provadnitza, The Dining Car and other Suppliers. Siberian Rivers' Travelling Companions

Listvyanka and Lake Baikal

22/07/2007

Arriving in Irkutsk, Lake Baikal, Listvyanka, Christenings at the Church, Lake Baikal Museum and Freshwater Seals, Siberian Sauna, A Paddle in Lake Baikal, A Softies Trek by Lake Baikal

Irkutsk

23/07/2007

First Impressions, Kirov Square and the Cathedral of the Epiphany, Lenin and Karl Marx Streets, Italian Restaurant, the Trubetskoy and Volkonskaya Houses, Loose Change, Off to Ulan Ude

Ulan Ude (1)Buddhists, Old Believers and an Enormous Head of Lenin

24/07/2007

Arival in Ulan Ude, Svieta's apartment, Ivolgisnk Datsan, the Buryat Republic, Old Believers, Sheepy Lunch, An Enormous Head of Lenin, Beer in Lenin Street

Ulan Ude (2) Incompetence Among the Buryats

25/07/2007

Shopping in Ulan Ude, Atsagat Datsan, Buryat Lunch including how not to make Buuz, Buryat Games, Omul for dinner, Beer in Lenin Street (again)

Naushki and into Mongolia

26/07/2007

Ulan Ude to Naushki, Russian Border at Naushki, Over the Border, Mongolian border post at Sukhbaatar, On to Ulaanbaatar. This post is also labelled 'Mongolia'

Lenin's Mausoleum, Red Square
Yekaterinburg, Model Soviet City
Off to buy beer, Omsk Station
Above lakeside cliffs, Lake Baikal
Wooden Houses, Irkutsk
Huge Head of Lenin, Ulan Ude
This man is not Robin Hood, Buryat Games

Russia ia also labelled in

Churches that Tell Stories

05/05/2012

A collection of interesting churches. The Russian contribution is the Cathedral of the Epiphany in Irkutsk.


Mongolia

Across the Mongolian Steppe to Bürd Sum

27/07/2007

Arriving in Ulaanbaatar. The 'Road' to Ovorkhangai. Arriving in Bürd Sum. Our Hosts and our accommodation. Cheese and Airacke. A Stroll before Diner. Assistant shepherds. Meeting Oyedoo's brother. A disturbed night featuring the 'Revenge of Airacke'

With the Mongolian Nomads

31/07/2007

Morning at Bürd Sum. Erdene Zuu Monastery. Camel Riding. Making Leather. Milking the Mares. Camp Life. Milking the goats. A bit of a singsong. To the Elstei Ger Camp

Ulaanbataar

01/08/2007

Arriving in Ulaanbaatar. Sukhbaatar Square. Chingis Khan, Sukhbaatar. Togrogs. Gandan Monastery. Bogd Khan's Palace. Cultural Show. Throat singing.

Hot and sweaty but in Mongolia at last

Number 2 son, Bürd Sum
Our Hosts, Bürd Sum
Chinggis Khan outside Ulaanbaatar's Parliament building

Mongolia is also labelled in

A Fine Drinking Man's Country

05/07/2011

In which I compare and contrast the pleasures of eating and drinking in 10 not entirely randomly chosen countries, including Mongolia.

Russia and Mongolia are both also labelled in

Tibetan Buddhism

13/01/2021

One on a series of posts on Buddhism, this consider Tibetan Buddhism, which is not entirely confined to Tiber. The Russian contribution is the Ivolginsk Datsun near Ulan Ude, the Mongolian contributions are the Gandan Monastery in Ulaanbaatar and the Erdene Zuu Monastery at Korakoram.

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