Melton Mowbray and the Vale of Belvoir, Stilton Cheese and Pork Pies: The Tasting

A Melton Mowbray Pork Pie and a Comparative Tasting of Four Blue Stiltons

If you have read the previous post, you will know we returned from Melton Mowbray and the Vale of Belvoir with a pork pie and slabs of cheese from four of the five local creameries - four of the six current Blue Stilton producers.

So we had to eat them.

23-Jun-2016

Dickinson & Morris Melton Mowbray Pork Pie

The pork pie provided lunch on Thursday and Friday (it was a big pie).

Dickinson & Morris Melton Mowbray Pork Pie

The Melton Mowbray Pork Pie Association gained Protected Geographical Indication status from the EU [Feb 2021: The post Brexit situation is currently unclear] The association has ten members and we have one pie, so this was not a comparative tasting.

Traditionally pork pies were agricultural workers’ lunch. They could be taken to the fields and the meat stayed safe and clean inside its pastry shell which was (until the 18th century) discarded not eaten.

Dickinson & Morris Melton Mowbray Pork Pie

From the late 17th century Melton Mowbray was the centre of three major fox hunts, the Quorn, the Cottesmore and the Belvoir*, each hunting several times a week throughout the autumn and winter fuelled by industrial quantities of Pork Pies. The season coincided with the annual pig slaughter, so fresh pork was used. The meat in Melton Mowbray pies is thus grey, the colour of roast pork, not the pink of processed pork used in other pies. The other two distinguishing features of Melton Mowbray pies is that the meat is chopped not minced and the pies are baked free standing so have a slightly bowed appearance.

Dickinson & Morris Melton Mowbray Pork Pie

I have always liked a pork pie, it makes a fine lunch with salad and home-made chutney. I enjoyed the Dickinson & Morris pie and have eaten many before – they are widely available. It was good, but would I drive all the way to Melton Mowbray if it was the only place to buy it? Probably not. Would I pick one up in my local supermarket as I passed? Yes, I would.

25-Jun-2016

The Stiltons

The Pork Pie, whether Melton Mowbray or not, is a peculiarly British delicacy. Fine cheeses, however, can be found all over Europe and beyond, and Stilton is up there with the finest.

Colston Bassett Blue Stilton

Stilton received its EU Protected Designation of Origin status in 1996[ Feb 2021: Again, the post Brexit situation is currently unclear] , and all Blue Stiltons (about a million cheeses a year) are made the same way.

Clawson Blue Stilton

How Stilton is Made

(The following is a précis of the description on the Stilton Cheesemakers Association website). Rennet and penicillium roqueforti (blue mould spores) are added to pasteurised cow’s milk. Once the curds have formed, they are allowed to drain overnight. The following morning, the curd is cut into blocks to allow further drainage before being milled and salted. It is placed in cylindrical moulds which are turned daily to allow natural drainage and ensure an even distribution of moisture. The cheese is not pressed so it develops a flaky open texture.

Cropwell Bishop Blue Stilton

After 5 or 6 days, the cylinders are removed and the cheese is transferred to a temperature and humidity controlled store where it is turned regularly. At 5 weeks when the cheese is forming the traditional Stilton crust it is pierced with stainless steel needles allowing air to enter the body of the cheese, activate the penicillium roqueforti and create the blue veins.

Tuxford and Tebbutt Blue stilton

Tasting the Stiltons

Saturday lunch was a Stilton tasting, but of course you cannot eat Stilton all on its on, you also need crackers, bread, butter and, of course, a glass (preferably two) of Tawny Port.

Saturday lunchtime Stilton tasting

Remembering that the opinions are personal and apply only to our randomly bought samples, we thought the general standard was high and there was not much between them. We disagreed about two of the cheeses but overall achieved a measure of consensus.

We both liked Colston Bassett the best. It looked the picture of a piece of Stilton and was creamy, smooth and utterly delicious. Perhaps a little stronger than the others, it had a marked and pleasing 'blue' flavour.

Colston Bassett Blue Stilton

Second we placed the Clawson. It did not look as good, the blue being so smeared in the cutting (was it cut with a knife rather than a wire?) that the photograph looks out of focus, though it is not. Cutting inside it looked fine and the texture was gloriously creamy, the flavour mild with a flick of 'blueness' at the finish.

Clawson Blue Stilton

We disagreed over the last two. I thought the Tuxford and Tebbutt had a sheen like a factory produced cheese. I did not like the pasty texture, could detect no flavour of blue and rated it the weakest.

Tuxford and Tebbutt Blue Stilton

Lynne, on the other hand, found a flavour in the Cropwell Bishop that she did not like. I thought the blue was over-concentrated when it should be veined through the cheese but I liked its slight crumbliness and extra sharpness.

Cropwell Bishop Blue Stilton

Overall we were surprised how mild they were. I am sure Stilton used to be a strong cheese, but this may be the effect of age on our palates - or maybe we have become habituated to fiery curries on our Asian travels.

* Despite the 2004 hunting ban, all three hunts still operate and claim they do so within the law. Quite how they do that is a mystery to me.

Melton Mowbray and the Vale of Belvoir, Stilton Cheese and Pork Pies: The Journey

Searching for Stilton Cheese and Pork Pies in the Places they are Made

Leicestershire

Stilton cheese has six licensed producers, one in Melton Mowbray and four more in the Vale of Belvoir immediately to the north. We thought we might pay them a visit, so we drove the 60 miles to Melton Mowbray.

Melton Mowbray

With the rain just holding off we walked past Anne of Cleves’ house towards the market square. A much restored medieval building it once housed the priests of the town’s chantry chapels. After the dissolution of the monasteries Henry VIII gave the house to Thomas Cromwell who lived there in 1540 but fell from grace after recommending Anne of Cleves to be Henry’s 4th wife and was executed in 1541. Ironically, the house passed to Anne of Cleves as part of her divorce settlement but although it bears her name she probably never even visited. It is now a pub.

Anne of Cleves' House, Melton Mowbray

The Butter Cross

Tuesdays and Saturdays are market days, so on Wednesday only a couple of forlorn looking stalls sat alongside the restored Butter Cross. Once there were four market crosses, today they would have outnumbered the stalls. We retreated to a coffee house and watched the rain splattering onto the flagstones.

Butter Cross, Melton Mowbray Market

Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe

Conveniently the shower stopped as we finished our coffee so we made our way up the High Street to ‘Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe’ (sic and yugh!) where we bought a Melton Mowbray pork pie. Dickinson Morris have been artisan pie-makers since 1851 but are no longer a family business and in 1992 were acquired by Samway Brothers, whose food empire stretches from Leicester to Cornwall (Ginsters Pasties). It is well laid out, but an artisan shop should have enthusiastic and knowledgeable employees and the staff gave the impression they would just as happily be selling baked beans or footwear.

Dickinson & Morris, Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe, Melton Mowbray

The Carnegie Museum

Back past the market square….

Market Square, Melton Mowbray

We continued towards the Tuxford and Tebbutt creamery. The Carnegie Museum is next door….

Carnegie Museum, Melton Mowbray

…and as it is free we dropped in. There is a display of foxhunting which in its modern (and now illegal) form was developed locally. The rest of the small space was aimed at school groups, which visit regularly. It feels strange to see items from our own childhood in museums (are we that old⁈) but it was well presented and I did like the chemist’s shop.

Chemist's shop, Carnegie Museum, Melton Mowbray

Tuxford and Tebbutt, Stilton Producers

Tuxford and Tebbutt, established 1780, also give the impression they are a family company but are wholly owned by Arla – the dairy farmers co-operative. Next to this quaint building is the forbidding modern creamery and there did not seem to be any factory shop. Morrison’s was across the road so we decided to peruse their Stilton. It was ‘own label’ and gave no clue to the manufacturer, though I know Tuxford and Tebbutt supply a lot of own label Stilton. Down the road a butcher was advertising Tuxford and Tebbutt Stilton so we bought some there.

Tuxford and Tebbutt, Melton Mowbray

In 1923 the winemakers of Châteauneuf du Pape, fed up with others cashing in on their reputation, sought legal protection for their name. Ten years later, after carefully defining the area and method of production, they succeeded and the appellation contrôlée system was born. The idea spread throughout the wine world, and then to other drinks and foods like olive oil, honey and ham.

In England, where food is considered a commodity rather than a cultural asset, the idea hardly caught on, though Stilton cheesemakers bucked the trend by forming an association to protect the origin and quality of their product in 1933. In 1966 it became the only British cheese to be protected by a trademark and 1996 they applied for and received Protected Designation of Origin status from the EU, so Stilton now stands alongside such delights as Parma Ham, Camembert and the Almonds of the Douro. In 2009 Melton Mowbray Pork Pies joined the EU’s elite band of protected geographical designations.[Update: Now that we have blundered out of the EU I am not sure what the situation is]

With two such products Melton Mowbray might appear justified in styling itself ‘Rural Capital of Food’, but with one pie shop and no visible effort put into promoting Stilton, it feels an overblown claim. It is worth taking another look at the picture of the market square, zooming in on the van in the centre. ‘Classic Cuisine - Cheeseburgers, Fries.’ I say no more.

Classic Cuisine, Melton Mowbray

Colston Bassett

Nottinghamshire

We headed north through lush countryside towards Cropwell Bishop, home of the northernmost of the five Stilton dairies. Melton Mowbray may have looked down at heel but the rural villages were full of prosperous well-kept homes and flowery lanes.

We paused for lunch in Colston Bassett, which also has a dairy, but one we would leave until a little later. The Martins Arms was a delight…

Martins Arms, Colston Bassett

… and the weather had perked up enough for us to have lunch in the carefully tended garden. The staff were attentive and friendly, the Black Sheep well kept and the Colston Bassett Stilton sandwich substantial enough to share. But, and it seemed an important ‘but’, the chutney in the sandwich overwhelmed the cheese

 

Martin Arms, Colston Bassett

Only when I paid the bill and read that the Martins Arms had been voted Nottinghamshire’s Best Dining Pub did I realise we had crossed the border from Leicestershire.

PDO rules allow Stilton to be made in Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire or Derbyshire from locally sourced cow’s milk. The method of production is defined and the quality protected by a taste test. Perhaps uniquely the village which gave the PDO its name is not included within the designated area. Stilton, in Cambridgeshire, is another 50mins drive east. It was the coach stop on the road north where cheese was marketed, not where it was produced, though this has been disputed.[Update: I suspect the rules are, for the moment at least, unchanged, though no longer backed by the EU]

Cropwell Bishop, Stilton Producer

Cropwell Bishop, also in Nottinghamshire, is a large village on the northern edge of the Vale of Belvoir. The Skailes family founded Somerset Creameries in 1941. They originally owned creameries in Somerset and Melton Mowbray but bought Cropwell Bishop in 1973 when they closed the West Country operation. Major investments were made here in the 1980s and the Melton Mowbray dairy was closed. The ‘Somerset Creameries’ name lingered until 2005 when the company, still run by the Skailes family, became Cropwell Bishop Creamery.

Cropwell Bishop Creamery

There is no access to the creamery, but they do have a proper shop, which offers a proper tasting. They let us loose on their fine classic Stilton, Shropshire Blue, harder, yellower and less interesting than Stilton, a rather ho-hum mature cheddar and the excellent Beauvale, a soft blue cheese reminiscent of Dolcelatte.

Lynne attacks classic Stilton, Cropwell Bishop Creamery

The shop stocks their full range including white Stilton (to my mind, Stilton with something missing) and Stilton with fruit inclusions, cranberries, apricots etc, for those who fail to realise that what white Stilton is actually missing is the blue veins.

Cropwell Bishop shop

Colston Bassett, Stilton Producer

We drove back to Colston Bassett….

Colston Bassett, definitely in Nottinghamshire

…..where the creamery shop only offered one cheese, but at least it was the right one. The company was started in 1913 when the local doctor persuaded farmers and others to invest in starting a creamery. The enterprise has thriven.

Colston Bassett Creamery and shop

The wide Vale of Belvoir is top quality agricultural country, though we saw no cattle despite cheese being its most famous product.

The Vale of Belvoir (pronounced Beaver - don't ask me why)

Long Clawson, Stilton Producer

Leicestershire

Long Clawson (back in Leicestershire) lives up to its name, being an extraordinarily long thin village. The dairy, right at one end, is not set up for visitors, but there is a fridge by reception from which sales are made.

Clawson Creamery reception (there's a fridge for sales in there)

Another home-grown enterprise, it was founded in 1911 by local farmers and now employs 200 people who make almost 7,000 tonnes of cheese yearly from the milk of 40 farms.

Clawson Creamery, Long Clawson

Saxelby, Alleged Stilton Producer

Websters, in the hamlet of Saxelby, is the fifth local producer. It is a family concern run by two sisters who, according to their website, welcome visitors. Unfortunately we could not find it, though we drove up, then down the main street. Looking at Google street view I can see where it should be, but if they had a sign, I could not see it.[Update: in 2016 I wondered if they had gone out of business. But not so - or at least not then. In December 2020 the Melton Times reported that the pandemic had produced a 16% drop in Stilton sales and as a result Websters had closed. There is no indication as to whether it will ever reopen.]

And so, with four pieces of Stilton and a Melton Mowbray pork pie we set off home. Apparently neither Melton Mowbray nor the Stilton industry are very interested in marketing themselves to visitors (though Cropwell Bishop is trying), so although it was a good day out, it was not a great one. Quality food and tourism have much to offer each other, if this was France there would undoubtedly be ‘route de fromage’, so why not here?

Hartington, Stilton Producer

Derbyshire

For completeness I will also mention the sixth Blue Stilton producer based in the Derbyshire Village of Hartington – rather a long way from the other five. Once owned and then closed by Clawson, the creamery reopened in 2012 and has been making Stilton since 2014. I should also add there are other producers of White Stilton, but I have made my opinion on that clear already.

My friends and walking companions Brian and Francis in the Peak District village of Hartington (Feb 2012)

So that is the tourist bit, now on to the tasting - it is the next post.